Alaïa S/S 2025 New York

[IloveDiorHomme]

Really bad. There is no sensuality in his work.
It's very clinical with weird proportions. Generally everything is quite heavy and a bit awkward.

And the color palette is not attractive...strange for a man who spent year working with Raf Simons (who masters colors generally).

 

[Nimsay]

I think Alaia's peplum is the code being used here.

I cannot believe how little there is to digest here. Alaia only puts out two collections. I cannot believe how many bandeau tops are on the runway.

I think Mulier needs to move on from Alaia...

 

[tatouejeremie]

perfect for nyfw

 

[JohannesL]

I love Alaia so much that I hate what Mulier did to his brand. Foremost, Alaia was not a pretentious brand that would show in the coldness of a museum. In its core, I still think Alaia is the brand that husbands would love to dress their wives but never one of those Loewe-ish brands.

 

[Lola701]

I like the two white tshirts (or tshirt minidresses whatever he calls it). The ballon pants looks good in sheer black.

The rest is rubbish.

The problem is that Azzedine worked tirelessly for 40 years on the same silhouettes so, if the approach is either diluting or complicating it, what’s the point?

They could have gave the job to Christopher Kane tbh.

I love Pieter but this is not Alaïa.

John Galliano (Dior SS2009) and Helmut Lang (SS2001) did Alaïa well. Maybe because sensuality is natural for them..

 

[THD96]

He just can't never get Alaïa right. Never was and never will.

And showing this mediocre in NY doesn't help either. He makes the prestige name like Alaïa look like in the same league of those NYFW brands.

His experiment with the always come up as overly intellectualized, too complicated for no reason. That's no what Azzedine is all about. He wants to pay tribute to Alaïa American debut but this is a flop. He is showing skin but isn't sensual or sexy. He needs to look at the archive because the 1982 collection has everything that this collection is not.

I see a lot of stunts for RC and IG but not a lot for core Alaïa women clients. And that's not what I want for the brand to become.

I'm already done with him.

 

[tourbillions]

i didnt really follow alaia but from what i remember it was very sexy and everything usually fits to a tee. And he did a lot of interesting things with the fabrics, none of those are present here.

these are too experimental, unsexy, and lifeless.

 

[LadyJunon]

This collection should've been so much simpler in concept and execution. Personally, if I was to show a collection at the Guggenheim, I would've done a collection of very fitted silhouettes in all-black.

Imagine watching a series of long willowy shadow-like figures pilgrimaging across the vast white space from afar. Then, they get closer and you see them become classical brand silhouettes, but done in unconvential fabric, etc.

Very demure, very mindful, very Alaïa.

 

[Kennnnn]

I hope they didn't close the Guggenheim for this.

 

[Creative]

I don’t think this collection deserves a “terrible”. It’s more like a MEH thing. Like… it’s there. Most of the looks are quite poorly executed but at least he tries something… The mesh was super lazy tho…

I think he wants to go towards a cleaness that reminds me of 2006 and that kind of escapes from the last 5 years trends, but the result is quite meh also.

I think only Alaïa can do Alaïa. He was so loved and so unique that anybody else trying to so Alaïa is f*cked. For me it’s like Helmut Lang or Tom Ford. I believe it’s impossible to be “good” working under those three names. It will always feel wrong.

 

[Phuel]

It all looks and feels like a bathwear line, down to the color-palette from a cosmetic surgeon's clinic.

Shame he seems back to his overwrought, overly-conceptual, and overly-unflattering sensibility. That offering from his penthouse was effortless, lush and smouldering with feminine allure-- and unfortunately it seems, just a one-off.

 

[LadyJunon]

I hope they didn't close the Guggenheim for this.

The show started at 9pm, so I doubt it.

I think only Alaïa can do Alaïa. He was so loved and so unique that anybody else trying to so Alaïa is f*cked. For me it’s like Helmut Lang or Tom Ford. I believe it’s impossible to be “good” working under those three names. It will always feel wrong.

Don't tell that to Tom Ford. I'm pretty sure his aim with the creation of his brand was for it to outlive him.

 

[GoldenPetals]

Ok I can't defend him anymore. I think he's had some great moments in the past, but this is just so ugly. The few simple white pieces are beautiful but the rest of it is completely undesirable.

 

[lookatme]

I also find the repetitive, colorway iterations of the same looks here particularly lazy and offensive.

His work has no romance. There's no pulse and no believability - his vision of a woman exists only for the catwalk and doesn't conjure up any desire, either. The proportions are always awkward, the shoes are always terrible, the cast never brings allure, the dramatic music doesn't add the gravity he thinks it does...it's just all a failure.

 

[Urban Stylin]

Too literal in its interpretation of the 2000s though I like the use of colour. Those naked dresses at the end are particularly hideous just like those bandeau tops from Rue 21 in 2003. The only look where the top looks interesting is the one where its worn with an asymmetric skirt with a strap.

 

[velvetandsilk]

In design, he is only interested in abstract form, where Alaia is about practicality and sensuality. The Alaia woman dances all night in a short dress, but her body is not vulgar.

 

[Fiercification]

Really, this is pretty awful. At best this man has created some chic, more editorial focused pieces and looks in recent years but his work looks overwrought and like it's always trying to being super sexy. There's nothing effortless, which is a word I would always associate with Alaïa despite the incredible detail he also managed to include in his clothing.

This is like a combination of everything I've hated in the past decade of fashion. Those oversized crinkled looks that feel like an attempt to recreate the Loewe F/W 16 and S/S 17 collections are particularly hideous.

 

[philophile]

I've partly been a fan of Pieter's work at Alaïa over the past 2 years, but the other part I never completely got. You can't completely say his body of work at the house has been terrible, since there have been very interesting things going on. However, this collection is mostly made up of the part I don't get about his work. Tube tops? Seriously? 2-3 of the dresses have an interesting design and shape (kinda Frank Lloyd Wright inspired as in his previous collection), but the rest I could really do without.

 

[PDFSD]

looks like it could be the best collection so far ......even if its still cold and missing soul

I take it back it more than half looked like a wolford spandex dress revival capsule its all so flat and soules and wrong sexy for ALAIA

The Charles James puffer´s he did are a child version of the original done in 1937 (still looks more modern and better constructed )

This guy is so stubborn to think to outmaster the master yet is pulling from other designers instead to do his homework on the ALAIA archives more profoundly.

 

[Lola701]

^^
Alaïa admired and collected Charles James. So referencing him is clever actually.

I find it intriguing when Designers references idols of designers’s brands they are working for. A Balenciaga reference at a Givenchy show is interesting as much as a Givenchy reference at Schiaparelli works.

It’s even more interesting when designers goes for the opposites but they have to be very good for that.

I must say the Charles James inspirations are once again, lackluster here.