Littleathquakes
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Def downhill for me.
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There's also another article, that I can't seem to find anymore, where it mentions that even though his designs have lifted the brand to a more modern direction, apparently, they felt he was already disfiguring the Balenciaga DNA or something to that effect.In a surprising move reflecting the rivalry between two French luxury titans, PPR announced on Monday the departure of Balenciaga’s star designer, Nicolas Ghesquière.
Citing a “joint decision to end their partnership” François-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief executive of PPR, praised Mr. Ghesquière’s “incomparable creative talent,” which “has brought to Balenciaga an artistic contribution essential to the unique influence of the house.”
Mr. Ghesquière, 41, who was not quoted in the PPR announcement, was traveling in Japan on Monday and could not be reached for comment. He joined Balenciaga when he was 25, was made creative director in 1997 and succeeded in bringing a hip and modern sensibility to the revered but dusty brand. His Balenciaga show for summer 2013 was widely applauded by critics and buyers.
The focus is now both on who will replace Mr. Ghesquière at a house that was extensively developed under his tenure — and on where he is headed.
Mr. Ghesquière has been courted by Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the archrival of PPR, according to a person in the Paris fashion industry who spoke on the condition of anonymity because the talks were continuing.
The person also said that Mr. Ghesquière had been offered a house under his own name that would be overseen by one of Mr. Arnault’s children: his daughter Delphine, who already works within the company, or his son Antoine, who has recently reintroduced and expanded the shoe brand Berluti.
LVMH’s brands include Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, TAG Heuer and Veuve Clicquot. It had revenue in 2011 of 23.65 billion euros ($30.24 billion) compared with 12.22 billion euros for PPR.
If Mr. Ghesquière were to strike out on his own, he would certainly need a significant investment, which would be difficult to find in these tight financial times outside of the few luxury conglomerates.
As an alternative, Mr. Ghesquière could be offered another dormant brand with the potential for him to develop. But it is likely that he would see that as a repetition of his situation at Balenciaga: the need to design within parameters set a half-century ago by a famous couturier.
Mr. Arnault did not return calls for comment on Monday. Another person within the LVMH empire, who spoke on the condition of anonymity, described the situation as “delicate.”
Whatever the outcome, the luxury titans’ maneuvering underscores the change in the industry over the last decade as the last of the independent houses has been swallowed up by the large groups. That has lead to a commoditization of top-rank designers, who are now sought after and bought much like international sports stars.
The Cristóbal Balenciaga house, founded in 1937, has become a top player in the fashion industry since PPR acquired it in 2001. It has expanded into many categories, like accessories and fragrances, and now has a global reach, with 62 stores, including 11 in China.
The house of Balenciaga holds a relatively low position at PPR compared with its star brand, Gucci, and to Yves Saint Laurent, which was recently reintroduced with a new designer.
Yet Mr. Ghesquière’s powerful artistic leadership and the appeal of his designs to some of the most important celebrities make it difficult to envision who might succeed him.
By Suzy Menkes nytimes.com