All About Menswear

[marrimoda]

Books about Menswear Pattern Making??

Hi -- I need to find a book on patternmaking specifically for Men's garments. I am under the impression there are not as many books for menswear pattern design as there are for women...even the gender neutral book I have has nothing in it for men.

Anyway -- do any of you have recommendations? I want to be able to make some drafts, slopers and patterns for mens trousers and jackets.

thanks!

By the way I apologize if I posted this in the wrong category -- but I've not found a more applicable one -- maybe we could have a category specifically for design and construction?

 

[purechris]

If you find one, let me know!

I've searched for ages for one as well. Somebody gave me an old pattern making book from the 60s/70s that has a basic men's shirt direction, but nothing too helpful. The patterns on the market for menswear are AWFUL!!! I have used vintage patterns as a starting point (they seem to be cut slimmer than ones now). I've looked at Burda patterns before and they seem a little more modern, but I've never actually used one.

Clay will probably know something....

 

[mdankwah]

try searching through a library or find someone who makes menswear

 

[marrimoda]

hmmm...this is interesting, either theres not much of a market for menswear design books, or some people are keeping their knowledge secret!

I posted the question here because I thought we might have some people on tfs who make menswear... and I cant get in touch with my old patternmaking and tailoring teachers.

Well -- I know that to make the the draft for pants is basically for men and women...so thats easy, but I'm trying to figure out how much extra ease to put in the seat depth...obviously more than for womens pants. well I'll just figure it out.

My main concern is over making a jacket pattern. I've already made a basic mans bodice sloper -- but I'm wanting some guidelines from a book for where to draft the gore seams...if this were for womenswear, I'd just follow the princess seams and apex. I am probably over complicating this.

By the way Purechris...I just ordered a book I heard about from someone at the FIT's bookstore. He described the book to me over the phone, and it sounds like its got pattern drafting instructions...when I receive it -- I'll let you know if its actually useful. Another book that I ordered and just received is all about menswear, and the description on the website that I ordered it from said it had patternmaking. However to my disappointment, it has illustrations of patterns only, nothing on how to achieve the pattern. That book may get returned.

If anyone has any info, now or later on, please drop me a post.

 

[marrimoda]

Well -- I know that to make the the draft for pants is basically for men and women...so thats easy, but I'm trying to figure out how much extra ease to put in the seat depth...obviously more than for womens pants. well I'll just figure it out.

Sorry, that should say -- the draft for pants is basically the same for men and women...

 

[Fade to Black]

marrimoda I just saw some of your work and I have to say, I'm quite impressed.

I would like you to design a tuxedo for a wedding I'm attending in a month.

 

[clay]

Did I hear my name??

Hey check out:
1) Classic Tailoring Techniques by Roberto Cabrera for construction and of course classic tailoring.
2) Fundamentals of Mens Fashion Design/ A Guide To Tailored Clothes By Masaaki Kawashima
3) Fundamentals of Mens Fashion Design/ A Guide To Casual Clothes by Edmund C. Roberts and Gary Onishenko.
4) Readers Digest Complete Guide to sewing for the fine details of everyday sewing, not strict about classic techniques.

You can get these at the FIt books store or look up online.

 

[marrimoda]

Thanks Clay!

I have the Cabrera books and the readers digest book, and I just ordered the Fundamentals book by Kawashima...Thanks for the book list.

Have you done many mens clothes? I am wondering about jackets.

 

[rockitgirl]

Okay I know this is an old topic but the book I have is decent. Metric Patternmaking for Menswear by Winifred Aldrich. Of course it's all in the metric system so if you are American you'll have to do lots of conversions.

 

[Ch..ch..aA]

i have some sheets about patterns of tailor mens clothes, but they are in spanish.

and you have to know all inches measures.

 

[mouko]

best menswear pattern book I have is "Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear"

It's in metric, which in my opinion makes everything much easier and more accurate. You can find it online for 20-30.00. I got mine off amazon. It was recommended to me by my professor at parsons. I love it.

 

[svsk_sk2]

Menswear Illustration

well as i am planning to do menswear as my BA course just wanna know if someone can share som menswear illustrations... as most of the ones i've seen here are woman's wear illustration... thanks guys... ;-)

 

[TheR]

i have a lot but all done on paper, you use photoshop or anything like that?

 

[svsk_sk2]

well i do use Photoshop and programmes like that but i am talking more about hand-drawing...

 

[Urban Stylin]

linen mens suit

Am planning to stitch a linen suit and I was wondering what is the best lining to use for it? Also what other advice do you have regarding a men's linen suit?

 

[ykidkwis]

perhaps a china silk...definitely a natural fiber as breathable as you can get to linen. but i would think a china silk....its so light and won't hinder the movement and drape of linen.

 

[Urban Stylin]

Thanks alot. Meanwhile how do I line the pants? Knee length or all the way down?

 

[Lena]

why should you ever line a linen jacket ?
it stands alone pretty well by itself, maybe a half lining for the jacket would be enough..

try to 'spy' how the italians are treating their menswear jackets

 

[Urban Stylin]

cool thanks let me visit a store and pretend that I wanna purchase it coz I was also worried that the linen may pull it and make it appear saggy

 

[laurenmarie]

Questions Regarding Menswear... the market and buying

Hello! I was wondering if someone could help me find out some information for a research project I'm doing. I need to speak with someone who is closely related to menswear, specifically in the buying department and would know information regarding market dates and delivery time line for the upcoming year, market and trade show locations, typical terms of purchase, lead time on both domestic and foreign goods, and standard manufacturer RTV policies and vendor merchandise exchange policies.

Any information or leads to where to find this kind of information would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!!

-Lauren