American Vogue - Passé?

[Shelton123]

It's New York Fashion Week once again and as I observe the collections, the fashionistas, photographers, models, editors, stylists etc I couldn't help thinking of the business of fashion and where the industry is now as compared to that era of the "supers." I also thought about the power players in the industry and the so-called fashion magazines especially in light of what just happened to Vogue Paris editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld. We all know that Anna Wintour is one of the most powerful players in the fashion industry, but I can't help but ask myself why? Sure we have to give credit when due and we all know that she played an instrumental role in the magazine when she just came in but years later, Vogue US has become one of the stalest magazines on the stands. The constant celebrity covers and content about them has made the magazine synanymous with the trashiness that is Star Magazine. How much fashion talk is incorporated into each issue? How is it that she doesn't see the need to showcase fashion from other parts of the world - middle-eastern, asian, caribbean etc? The fashion industry has a fundamental impact on the economy and vice versa, fashion is also a form of art, yet Vogue with it's cheesy and uninspired editorials cannot find a way to marry that into an editorial that is both educational to people and beautiful to look at.

Why then was Carine Roitfeld fired for one bad issue, which by the way still managed to put Vogue US to shame and why is it that Wintour is still around after many absolutely terrible issues that was lacking and left much to be desired? I hope for a true fashion magazine which highlights fashion in various forms and fashion from around the world. A magazine with inspired editorials, beautiful pictures, real models, newsworthy content that are educational etc. Until then, like my fellow friends, i'm canceling my Vogue US subscription and will continue reading Vogue Italia because unlike Ms. Wintour, Franca Sozzani continues to do a wonderful job as editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia. The only magazine damn near close enough to being called a true fashion magazine.

That's definitely not the only reason she got fired. Are we forgetting the Balenciaga incident? I'm sure that played into it.

The editorials are not uninspired. Just because they're not lavish and over the top, dark and sexual, or haute couture 24/7 doesn't mean they're uninspired. I actually think US vogue has great editorial content. The celebrities they put on the cover lately have been relevant to fashion. And honestly, if a magazine has NOTHING but fashion, it won't sell in the US market. You can't just throw away sales to please the 2% of fashion conscious people on tFS who probably wouldn't buy US vogue even if they did use models on the cover and did crazy eds, just because it's US vogue and it's "not high fashion."

 

[wild roses]

So, I caved and bought my first Vogue ever. I've been wanting to buy it for a few months since joining the forum but I think Natalie Portman and Lady Gaga are overrated and Kristin Stewart isn't my cup of tea (and playing Bella Swan does NOT make her worthy to be on the cover, if anything, it's one reason why she shouldn't be on it).

Being Vogue-ignorant, I wasn't sure what to expect. I was pleasantly surprised by all the substantial articles. It wasn't fluff at all--which I liked. However, the editorials...were a bore. They were pretty, but not creative. They seemed....typical and extremely cookie cutter. I loved the clothes featured but not the presentation of them. (I will confess that the only other fashion mag I pay attention to is InStyle, which is far from being avante-garde, but they seem to find creative ways to make clothing look fresh and exciting.)

 

[Drusilla_]

^I agree. American Vogue's editorials have been boring for years, and their covers positively awful, but their articles are sometimes interesting and well-written, as long as they're not about the 10,000th socialite with art-world connections/a villa in Tuscany/whatever. It's a little better now, but far from good. And as far as English-language editions of Vogue go, I'd still rather read Vogue UK.

 

[Heroine Black]

As mentioned before Vogue US does target different audience than let's say Vogue Paris. But at the same time with the reputation that they have they could shake things up just a little bit- even if it would be just to give people something to talk/ think about. I don't remember when was the last time I've seen something in Vogue US that have left me breathless.. When it comes to the celebrities on the cover I see their point, I actually like seeing someone who has more to offer than a pretty face- a celebrity on the cover is (or rather could be) a promise of an interesting interview (does not happen a lot lately , especially that there have been so many failed choices).
Basically Vogue US= BORING

 

[tigerrouge]

What I miss from US Vogue is the work of truly experienced photographers like Newton and now Penn.

It's important to let younger people have the opportunity to get their work on the page, but there's also a lot to be said for someone who's done their job for forty or fifty years and whose understanding of things comes from life experience, someone with a proper set of references.

 

[iluvjeisa]

I think American Vogue has gotten at least ten times better in the last year. Since the beginning of 2010. It's actually one of my favourite magazines at the moment, believe it or not.

But I definitely agree that there's a sore lack of the greats. Elgort still does work for them, though, he is great. Meisel - of course - but his best work is for VI and besides, it doesn't seem like he can quite push his ideas through in American Vogue somehow?

 

[AD122915]

US vogue is not that bad... Anna simply knows her audience and adjusted her magazine to it.... she would be dumb if she didnt.... the magazine isnt such a sellout as you are saying... the editorials arent anything that breath-taking but it stays in the fashion front with full coverage on everything... American issue is cheezier because Americans are cheezier and casual... thats about it... Us vogue might not be that good internationally because americans dont live fashion that much, but on us market its a good fashion magazine... the only usage of magazines like InStyle, Allure and Elle is to be used like a toilet paper...
and regarding Carine... as it was said, 1 bad issue was the only reason?
1. BALENCIAGA incident.. she lended Balenciaga outfit to Maxmara to COPY it!!! you think this is acceptable!? Balenciaga - one of the best, most exclusive and progressive current fashion houses blacklisted French Vogue... this has no value?
2. when her son started dating Mariacarla, she surprisingly started to appear more often in French Vogue... really weird... hmmm?
3. i think she had a drug problem... i know her job is exhausting but i dont think she naturally has so much energy to be up all the time.... her nose and cheeks got puffy just like Kate Moss..

plus this is the article from fashionpressure.com it gives u more insight bout the whole thing:

I’m sure you’ve all heard of the sudden news that hit the internet a couple of weeks ago informing us that the 10 year-running Editor in Chief of Vogue Paris was “resigning”. Of course just like any juicy story this was simply a cover up in the attempt to hide the real reason why Carine was ditched by Vogue’s publishing giant Conde Nast.
Carine’s dismissal was caused by accumulating acts that Carine had carried out that really didn’t impress the Big b*tches at Conde Nast and resulted in her sacking.
A while back I had posted an entry about Balenciaga blacklisting Vogue Paris from their seasonal shows due to an unforgivable act committed by Roitfeld. Read more HERE. Furthermore huge speculation had surrounded the sudden rise of Turkish designer, Hakaan, who literally came out of nowhere sporting giant models like Mariacarla Boscono, Natalia Vodianova, Natasha Poly and Lara Stone. Sounds familiar? Yes the show was more Givenchy than Givenchy itself. How Hakaan had nabbed a slot in crazy Paris Fashion Week was beyond everyone…until it was revealed later than Carine Roitfeld had given Hakaan favour over longer-running (and more original) designers Peachoo + Krejberg.
Other reports say that Roitfeld had been overdoing it on the company credit card, and I even read a report saying that she had forced a male model into a relationship! I don’t believe that report though (and don’t quote me on it lol).​

 

[wild roses]

US vogue is not that bad... Anna simply knows her audience and adjusted her magazine to it.... she would be dumb if she didnt.... the magazine isnt such a sellout as you are saying... the editorials arent anything that breath-taking but it stays in the fashion front with full coverage on everything... American issue is cheezier because Americans are cheezier and casual... thats about it... Us vogue might not be that good internationally because americans dont live fashion that much, but on us market its a good fashion magazine... the only usage of magazines like InStyle, Allure and Elle is to be used like a toilet paper...

I used to only read InStyle and now have branched out to Vogue, but I have to say, I agree with this. InStyle isn't a bad magazine, but it's definitely a "hold-your-hand/how-to" guide to fashion. While it does have good editorials and content from time to time, it is rather middle-brow and doesn't challenge the reader. It also spells out how to put together your wardrobe for you.

I don't get that feeling with Vogue though. It's more abstract. Even though I question some of the cover choices (Kristin Stewart!?! UGH!) and the originality of the editorials (some of them are very cookie-cutter), they do push interesting, offbeat fashion. US Vogue might be a "how to" in comparison to international Vogues, but compared to InStyle, it doesn't tell you how to put together an outfit. It basically leaves you to figure it out for yourself.

I don't get the controversy of putting celebs on the cover though. While not are worthy of it, I do think there are many sincerely interested in fashion. Hell, my first style lessons came from Hollywood star/designer collaborations: Hepburn and Givenchy, Grace Kelly and Edith Head, etc. Hollywood films and tv shows have also help set fashion trends from time to time as well. I think Wintour is trying to tap into that, even if she does sometimes overemphasize it. (Okay, she overdoes it all the freaking time. But I give her credit for trying to show how Hollywood and fashion worlds overlap.)

 

[thejarc]

US vogue is not that bad... Anna simply knows her audience and adjusted her magazine to it.... she would be dumb if she didnt.... the magazine isnt such a sellout as you are saying... the editorials arent anything that breath-taking but it stays in the fashion front with full coverage on everything... American issue is cheezier because Americans are cheezier and casual... thats about it... Us vogue might not be that good internationally because americans dont live fashion that much, but on us market its a good fashion magazine... the only usage of magazines like InStyle, Allure and Elle is to be used like a toilet paper...
and regarding Carine... as it was said, 1 bad issue was the only reason?
1. BALENCIAGA incident.. she lended Balenciaga outfit to Maxmara to COPY it!!! you think this is acceptable!? Balenciaga - one of the best, most exclusive and progressive current fashion houses blacklisted French Vogue... this has no value?
2. when her son started dating Mariacarla, she surprisingly started to appear more often in French Vogue... really weird... hmmm?
3. i think she had a drug problem... i know her job is exhausting but i dont think she naturally has so much energy to be up all the time.... her nose and cheeks got puffy just like Kate Moss..

plus this is the article from fashionpressure.com it gives u more insight bout the whole thing:

I’m sure you’ve all heard of the sudden news that hit the internet a couple of weeks ago informing us that the 10 year-running Editor in Chief of Vogue Paris was “resigning”. Of course just like any juicy story this was simply a cover up in the attempt to hide the real reason why Carine was ditched by Vogue’s publishing giant Conde Nast.
Carine’s dismissal was caused by accumulating acts that Carine had carried out that really didn’t impress the Big b*tches at Conde Nast and resulted in her sacking.
A while back I had posted an entry about Balenciaga blacklisting Vogue Paris from their seasonal shows due to an unforgivable act committed by Roitfeld. Read more HERE. Furthermore huge speculation had surrounded the sudden rise of Turkish designer, Hakaan, who literally came out of nowhere sporting giant models like Mariacarla Boscono, Natalia Vodianova, Natasha Poly and Lara Stone. Sounds familiar? Yes the show was more Givenchy than Givenchy itself. How Hakaan had nabbed a slot in crazy Paris Fashion Week was beyond everyone…until it was revealed later than Carine Roitfeld had given Hakaan favour over longer-running (and more original) designers Peachoo + Krejberg.
Other reports say that Roitfeld had been overdoing it on the company credit card, and I even read a report saying that she had forced a male model into a relationship! I don’t believe that report though (and don’t quote me on it lol).​

These are some weird allegations. The MaxMara-rumor was started by fashionista and never proven, the drug-thing is ridicolous and the reason why Hakaan popped up everywhere is because Mert Alas is his backer.

 

[AD122915]

I used to only read InStyle and now have branched out to Vogue, but I have to say, I agree with this. InStyle isn't a bad magazine, but it's definitely a "hold-your-hand/how-to" guide to fashion. While it does have good editorials and content from time to time, it is rather middle-brow and doesn't challenge the reader. It also spells out how to put together your wardrobe for you.

I don't get that feeling with Vogue though. It's more abstract. Even though I question some of the cover choices (Kristin Stewart!?! UGH!) and the originality of the editorials (some of them are very cookie-cutter), they do push interesting, offbeat fashion. US Vogue might be a "how to" in comparison to international Vogues, but compared to InStyle, it doesn't tell you how to put together an outfit. It basically leaves you to figure it out for yourself.

I don't get the controversy of putting celebs on the cover though. While not are worthy of it, I do think there are many sincerely interested in fashion. Hell, my first style lessons came from Hollywood star/designer collaborations: Hepburn and Givenchy, Grace Kelly and Edith Head, etc. Hollywood films and tv shows have also help set fashion trends from time to time as well. I think Wintour is trying to tap into that, even if she does sometimes overemphasize it. (Okay, she overdoes it all the freaking time. But I give her credit for trying to show how Hollywood and fashion worlds overlap.)

I completely agree with this... InStyle was all about putting the outfit together but wasn't focusing on the fashion from the artistic point of view unlike vogue... it said how to wear it, not why to wear it... it lacks the depth.... although US vogue fashion depth isnt that deeper i also agree that vogue does more coverage on other issues from ecological ones, political, social to economic.... and seriously, us vogue has always great beauty and body articles... there is this writer (i forgot his name, somebody can help me, please) who writes about food in every issue. i hate cooking myself but that guy is a genius talking about cooking in such an interesting way and doing research on so many things i just wanna stand up and start cooking for myself also they always have the best articles on the latest beauty procedures and anti-age advancements (not talking about fighting cancer, fakes counterfight, charity work and supporting domestic economy)... their articles are always amazing when i started to read them in 2006 about Human Growth Hormone, plastic surgeries, cryo therapies, DNA break-down & break-through, best cosmetic centers and leading people, and also connecting it with inside out... (another excellent magazine was W, there was this writer and every month she did amazing research in her column, but i unsubcribed bout 2 years ago, so i cannot tell now)

lastly, US economy is based on tertiary sector - services and show business... therefore us fashion might seem cornier, but its just more of a show-off... therefore the vogue... us economy runs on celebrities and entertainment industry so i naturally understand the vogue approach.... its always who wears what where.. like at oscars....

These are some weird allegations. The MaxMara-rumor was started by fashionista and never proven, the drug-thing is ridicolous and the reason why Hakaan popped up everywhere is because Mert Alas is his backer.

i think maxmara rumor was proved by french vogue being blacklisted by Balenciaga....
i met sum people working in the fashion business and ud be surprised how many people use illegal stuff to keep them going... models go to bed at 3 am and wake up at 5 am during fashion weeks, they need energy to stay up, be focused, yet keep their figure ultra slim.... and go like that for month and half... that aint easy... and its hard to stay on top cuz million girls would kill for that...anyhoo, this is touchy issue hard to prove but i dont think someone who is on top of french fashion looks like that when she can afford any treatments... her skin is all weird and hangind, superweird color and she is puffy... this just isnt natural at her age... u can see how Kate Moss destroyed herself with drugs and alcohol....her face looks completely different.. also Daria's face change dramatically but she had sum surgeries...
i just quoted that article, even the author says it does not have to be necessarily true. i wasnt tryin to point a finger but to say she had no reason to leave and i dont think that one bad issue would be the only reason to fire her... of course we cannot know everything behind the story but i was inclining there was more... and cited some other articles to make my point... that's all...

 

[aaronboomz]

What I can say about Vogue is that it is edited really well. But it is also very, or too commercial. Vogue stands as the industry's most highly regarded magazine. Reputable and respected. But of late, I see editorials becoming rather repetitive and lack innovation. "Anything Goes" from last November seemed to paint a rather similar story or give a certain mood which is comparable to Kate Moss' "Romantic Revival" from Dec '94. And from March's "Punk'd", you could see inspired hairdos from Stella Tennant's "For King and Country" in Nov '10's issue. A good magazine picks out the latest trends and reinterpret it. Vogue picks out trends such as in "Future Shock" from February's issue - neonified pieces in colour blocking looks - and puts them onto models donning iPads, and Blackberries. Jackets as jackets, Jeans as jeans? It almost seems inadequate.
Though VP has been in this thread for quite some time, I think the 'edition' we should be taking a look at would be Sozzani's Vogue Italia. A fresh breath of air, and even pairing with ANTM (funny isn't it) - shows their support for new and fresh talent which Wintour always claims she shows. We are sick and tired of the poor editorials Tonne Goodman, and Camilla Nickerson give us. We need a Coddington protege, we don't need new taste, nor style, we want the 90s revival back onto the glossies.

 

[elle_gb]

I wish I could find more fashion content in American Vogue as they're really huge and influential. I mean yeah i did see variety and all but somehow i just feel its irrelevant as a fashion magazine.

 

[Kayote]

Very interesting discussion here. I unfortunately have not much of an exposure to the US Vogue but definitely feel the UK version is OK, though style wise ELLE is more popular (much more?) here.

 

[MimiV]

I do think that each Vogue does it best to capture the audience of its country. With all the money that goes into finding out what the public wants, maybe Vogue US is doing just that? The example of cover models comes to mind; Vogue Paris could (or would) as far as I'm concerned never put someone like Rihanna or Lady Gaga on the cover because even if they are both extremely well known in France, the readers of Vogue Paris are not interested in reading about them in the same way that the readers of Vogue US are. I'm obviously not saying that this applies to everyone in the states, just that Vogue tries to appeal to the majority of their market.

 

[thejarc]

I do think that each Vogue does it best to capture the audience of its country. With all the money that goes into finding out what the public wants, maybe Vogue US is doing just that? The example of cover models comes to mind; Vogue Paris could (or would) as far as I'm concerned never put someone like Rihanna or Lady Gaga on the cover because even if they are both extremely well known in France, the readers of Vogue Paris are not interested in reading about them in the same way that the readers of Vogue US are. I'm obviously not saying that this applies to everyone in the states, just that Vogue tries to appeal to the majority of their market.

They had Paris Hilton and Scarlet Johansson on the cover.

 

[rosiecheeks]

Very interesting discussion here. I unfortunately have not much of an exposure to the US Vogue but definitely feel the UK version is OK, though style wise ELLE is more popular (much more?) here.

The UK version is definitely better than the US version. What always strikes me is the vast amount of advertising in US. Which makes it so ... not-independent? I feel that in the US version, all I hear is the American boards of big brands, wanting to sell more and more. And that is ultimately not what fashion is about. Fashion is the art of clothing and accessory and styling. It's not about the high level of rotation of constant new 'hip' things.
ELLE uk however... well don't get me started on that haha. The lack of serious articles in there, it's more a women's than a fashion magazine (I feel that Vogue worldwide likes to present itself as more fashion that all-round women magazine).

 

[Modelo]

I think that the magazine has gotten somewhat better over the past year but still lacks something. I feel like everything is driven toward mass marketing of the brands and fashion is not being portrayed as the art form that it really is. It's not inspiring but instead it's very commercial. The only version which continues to inspire and appear to take fashion seriously is Francas' Vogue Italia. Although she had a few misses in the past year, generally the magazine in terms of content, creativity, inspiration leads the pack of Vogues. I still think that Anna Wintour's time has passed and someone else needs to take the helm of Vogue US. My first choice would be Grace. She really seem to know how to put together a magazine that has substance and that is creative and inspiring, however, I'm not sure she has the business acumen that maybe Anna has to keep the magazine afloat. So I guess in the end business beats creativity which is why Anna remains EIC.

 

[KateTheGreatest]

My biggest complaint is that I wish they would use MODELS on the covers instead of always celebrities; it's a fashion mag first, not a celeb mag!

I agree with this, I miss models on the covers (generally) but mostly on Vogue US considering it's supposed to be a fashion bible.
I don't find passe, but it's quite repetetive and not all that special, I've subscribed to it, but I won't renew the subscription.

I do wonder though how Vogue would be if Grace Coddington would be EIC, I think it would be wonderful.

 

[terpischoria]

I agree with this, I miss models on the covers (generally) but mostly on Vogue US considering it's supposed to be a fashion bible.
I don't find passe, but it's quite repetetive and not all that special, I've subscribed to it, but I won't renew the subscription.

I do wonder though how Vogue would be if Grace Coddington would be EIC, I think it would be wonderful.

Yes, I noticed that when I was looking at this: http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/looking-back-vogue-covers-2011/ !
They should really put more focus on fashion models. It's great that they can attract celebrities for their covers. It's even better if they can still show that they still deserve the title of a "fashion bible"

 

[Drusilla_]

I don't even mind them having celebrities on the cover, because some actresses can make for wonderfully interesting interviews. The problem is, look at the two-bit rubbish Anna tries to pass off as It-Girls sometimes! You're really telling me Jessica Biel, Kate Bosworth and Blake Lively deserve to be on the cover twice each? (no apparent talent, no real style.....is that covergirl material?)

I'd rather see a blue-chip fashion model on the cover than some B/C-list celebrity. If this is Vogue US and that is the excuse for getting celebrities on to your cover, at least get ones who are worth the page space. And it would be nice if the editorials looked a little different, it feels like they've been using the same background since 1994 with more photoshop.