Anatomy of a Magazine Cover

[donner]

Intriguing article--as much for what it hints at as for what it says.

The market research angle explains something I have wondered about--it often seems that the weakest image is on the cover or at least one of the pictures in the editorial is far better than the cover. Now I know how those pictures make it to the cover.

 

[catherinea]

Amazing article

 

[MaPommeCherie]

That was a great and very informative article.

I wish the people behind the magazine could stop using celebrities and start using models again.

 

[Ocean]

I heard somewhere that celebrities pay to be on certain covers, is that not true?

 

[icarlo]

Great article. It's so interesting to know about the behind the scenes of a magazine cover. Cheers Kimair.

 

[8 Fighter]

Should the publication so choose — or should, say, a celebrity cancel at the last minute — a model might be booked for the cover instead. Models are reserved anywhere from a few months in advance to just days before the shoot. The going rate for editorial work is $225 a day plus 10 percent to the model’s agency — even for supermodels such as Daria Werbowy, Karolina Kurkova and Liya Kedebe, who is currently on the May cover of Vogue.

Am I the only one that thinks $225 a day is really cheap for a model's paycheck. Specially a cover? Or did I misread?

 

[OriginalSin]

^Yeah, it is kinda cheap but consistent with what I've heard time and again. Models make most of their money from ad campaigns from what I understand. And I suppose big name runway shows also pay their models well, but I'm not as sure about that. Perhaps someone with more knowledge can confirm/correct

 

[8 Fighter]

^Yeah, it is kinda cheap but consistent with what I've heard time and again. Models make most of their money from ad campaigns from what I understand. And I suppose big name runway shows also pay their models well, but I'm not as sure about that. Perhaps someone with more knowledge can confirm/correct

Well Ad Campaigns are not so popular. Their's not so many ad campaigns and it takes time for a model to actually get a campaign. Some don't even get campaigns. But I'm very sure that 200 for a cover is not the right prize. Even fashion shows are over 8 thousand, or so I've heard.

 

[prosperk]

Are you kidding? Advertising campaigns are where everyone involved in Fashion makes their money, from photographers, stylists, hair and makeup people and their agents and, of course, the models. Magazine editorials and cover stories don't pay because they are part of a promotional/showcase process aimed at getting those lucrative campaigns. As for fashion shows, some pay for the girls but most don't. In some cases, agents bribe designers to get their girls up on those catwalks. The fashion houses pay celebrities to attend...with wads of cash in plain envelopes under the table and various 'gifts'. One Hollywood agent was given the keys to a top of the range Mercedes recently for ensuring a client's presence at a fashion event.

PK

 

[8 Fighter]

Magazine editorials and cover stories don't pay because they are part of a promotional/showcase process aimed at getting those lucrative campaigns.

Explain?

 

[OriginalSin]

^ In the very first post, it says:

“[Editorial work] is not going to pay the same rate as selling jewelry or cosmetics [in an advertising campaign],” said Ivan Bart, senior vice president of IMG Models. “But doing covers leads to other opportunities.…In the same way that Julianne Moore does a magazine cover to promote a film, models are on covers to promote their interests, too.”

Models can promote a cause (as was the case of Liya Kebede on the cover of Vogue a couple of years ago) or more often, models are promoting themselves pretty much. Covers and edits get their image out there, show their range as a model, etc. This exposure will help them land a campaign in the future.

 

[Plato's_Cave]

Yes. In short, high profile editorial work (and the buzz that comes with it) is what leads to campaign bookings. It's all about being seen in the right places. A Vogue spread, or even better, a cover, is basically like an advertising campaign for the model, that cover will book her loads of [paying] jobs in the future. Even established models gladly work for very little pay for the same reason, for the exposure, to stay in high fashion demand.

 

[prosperk]

Explain?

Plato's Cave explained it quite clearly. However, just to be even clearer: photographers, models, fashion stylists, hair stylists, make-up artists and assistants create fashion stories ("editorial", in fashion mag parlance) and cover shoots for glossy magazines and will often even cover their own expenses because they know that portfolios full of the resulting tearsheets of their work will increase their leverage when it comes to being picked to create highly-paid advertising campaigns by the firms that advertise in these glossy magazines. Magazines will sometimes cover expenses and perhaps even pay nominal fees if the 'artists' are quite high profile themselves but younger photographers will effectively pay to be published.

Clear?

PK

 

[matsudaseiko]

covers are different, hon.....

not only it'll look good among the tear sheets, it a sign of telling people that u're 'IN' too. so even if they don't pay, models will still do it i think. as for the girls, it's always the catalogue, ad, runway that pays.

Well Ad Campaigns are not so popular. Their's not so many ad campaigns and it takes time for a model to actually get a campaign. Some don't even get campaigns. But I'm very sure that 200 for a cover is not the right prize. Even fashion shows are over 8 thousand, or so I've heard.

 

[matsudaseiko]

it's all $ except for the models......

and then of course u can choose between the credited and the non-credited options, aka different pay.

Plato's Cave explained it quite clearly. However, just to be even clearer: photographers, models, fashion stylists, hair stylists, make-up artists and assistants create fashion stories ("editorial", in fashion mag parlance) and cover shoots for glossy magazines and will often even cover their own expenses because they know that portfolios full of the resulting tearsheets of their work will increase their leverage when it comes to being picked to create highly-paid advertising campaigns by the firms that advertise in these glossy magazines. Magazines will sometimes cover expenses and perhaps even pay nominal fees if the 'artists' are quite high profile themselves but younger photographers will effectively pay to be published.

Clear?

PK

 

[benjikan]

Thought I would share my article with you...

Was recently asked, "How do you put a Fashion Shoot with Cover Try together?"

I really don't where to start...

The team is always the following: A Fashion Stylist, Hair Stylist, Make-Up Artist, Model or 's, Photographer and Assistant or 's....

A stylist is the person that chooses the clothing, shoes and accessories. The stylist is briefed before the shoot by the photographer. This briefing is a think tank session that is intended to garner a "Theme" or "Story" that will be the thread running through the whole shoot. It is like writing a storyboard. Let's say we want to do a ten page fashion story with the theme being"My Day at the Laundromat" for example. The shoot will be about a girl who has a huge pile of clothes to wash and is spending the whole day in the place while people are coming in and out as she observes the procession. All "Good" fashion stories start with a theme, from simple to complex. Well these people i.e. models are dressed in specific "Brands" of clothing that should cover a range of designers or manufactures to give a reason for it being a "Fashion" story and not just a "Model Portfolio" Yach...Sorry. All fashion magazine expect at least a six page story with a theme. Now how are you going to choreograph all of this. You are going for a ten page story. Well it could be two double pages and six single pages or three double page spreads and four single pages. On the former example you will only have to shoot seven images that being three horizontal images and four vertical. That could be done in one day but two days would be preferable. Now you have to define each of the shots in the "Story" Perhaps the first opening page could just be a picture of the Laundromat empty and void of anything except the ugly fluorescent lights and the washers and dryers. That might be where the title would be. Lets call the story "Living in a Laundromat".

The next shot could be the star of the show who might be wearing a "Miss Sixty" pair of red jeans an "H&M" blouse a pair of "Adidas" shoes and a "Victor and Rolf" Bag...Remember all magazine reason for existing is to catalogue what the designers are coming out with two to three months in advance of the product hitting the stores, so the stylist will have access to all of the press offices representing the designers showrooms. So let's continue. The next image is the introduction of the first couple or individuals coming in to do their laundry. They are perhaps passing dirty clothing to the one that is depositing the socks in to the washing machine. Perhaps it is being throw and caught etc. The story continues with different amusing vignettes and perhaps ends with a close up of the girl, still alone in the Laundromat of a close up on her sad face looking through the glass door on to the world outside...

That "IS" a fashion story.

Now that you have decided on the story, you have to decide on the rest of the team. Remember that the Fashion Stylist was chosen because she/he was appropriate for this kind of challenge and in your estimation a think tank session with this person would result in an interesting treatment. Knowing the story you both will have to find a hair and make up artist or one that is very good at both which is rare. You will be doing your casting based on looking at books of Hair and Make-up people to see if their style conforms to your treatment (story). Now that you have found the support team it is time to cast for the appropriate subjects.

In the story you decided that you needed three people. The other two will look different in each image so you could get away with just three "Models-Actors" The casting is so important in re-enforcing the theme of the story. For me stranger is better, but that is a matter of taste based on your being "Plugged In" to what the looks are that are happening today.

You will have the stylist or yourself call the model agencies and brief them with the criteria of you theme and they will respond by sending you portfolios for the purpose of honing down the selection. Once selections are made you will call the agency to have them send the chosen finalists to come for a face to face casting. The casting should be attended by the whole team. The hair and make-up artists will comment on there observations as well as the stylist and yourself, all seeing the model from a different perspective.

Once the democratic decisions are made, you will have the final decision approval authority based on their input. The agency will be called to confirm the dates you gave them when they asked "What are the shoot dates. We will send you books of talent available on those dates..."

You will get either a first or second option and hopefully a first. If you are certain of the selection confirm immediately. That will guarantee their availability.

Set the time and place of the shoot and give the agencies all of the telephone contact info and visa versa for the whole team... That is how to put together a shoot. Although a condensed version. You must also think about the flow of the story. Two full shots two close up details one beauty shot etc etc etc...

The Beginning... Ben

 

[CanonMan]

That was uber detailed. I hate how when your looking at the magazine rack all the covers are just plastered with celebs. It's annoying!

 

[conniepalermo]

the phrase

'it's not rocket science!'

should now be replaced with

'it's not a cover shoot!'

hahaha true.

 

[conniepalermo]

clothing

there's something i've always wondered is the clothing part. "If that doesn’t work, often designers will offer clothes straight from the racks of their stores." OFFER?
and then, benjikan said "Remember all magazine reason for existing is to catalogue what the designers are coming out with two to three months in advance of the product hitting the stores"

i study design and this semester i've got a class in which we'll have to make a fashion magazine for a final project and i'll be responsible for the fashion editorial section. and until now, the most difficult part seems to be the one which i'll have to get the clothes. i mean, "hi, i'm making a college project and i'd love if you borrowed me some of your clothes". isn't there any easier way to do this? after all, who profits is the designer's store. it's kinda like a deal, right? i show them the sketches of the project, if they like, then they'll cooperate, but though, it seems alot harder when it is only a project, we have minimal budget and it won't sell out in big numbers.
i'd really love some more info about that, if anyone's kind to give.

 

[Qtinez7]

so awesome. i am so glad you posted this, i feel inspired