Anthony Vaccarello S/S 2013 Paris

[pivoslyakova]

it is very messy and poorly done, i was expecting a lot more. I liked the last looks though, except for the last dress...

 

[Razzer]

well I actually liked Anja's last dress

 

[Egoiste]

I'm too !

 

[Valentine27]

Black & white is really everywhere this season. It is surely going to be one of the top trends of S/S 2013.
I usually like his collections but I really was expecting more, so I'm kind of disappointed. This one looks so weak. Some pieces look cheap (these black tops at the beginning were the worst imo) and tacky (the sequin dress on Kinga ew). The last pieces were more interesting though.

 

[Fatalefashion]

I LOOOVEDl

 

[lelaid]

^i'm glad i'm not alone! i thought it was his most wearable collection to date. yea, some shaky parts but overall i like it.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Bleh. He's so terrible. So one note - and it's not even a note anybody really needs to be listening to. He's all smoke and mirrors. It seems like he thinks the more straps and seams and ties he adds to a short little dress the "cooler" it will be. I can't picture a single one of these pieces looking good off these annoying IT models, too. And even they don't look good in them!

It's just so cheesy to me - to have all these big flashy models like Anja and Karlie and Arizona walk his show. It's so student and it just goes to show that he has no real point of view of his own to prove.

 

[chloesaab]

^^Totally right, add to that when u see the collection it doesn't remind you of any other designer IMO

 

[Tentacl Ventricl]

Bleh. He's so terrible. So one note - and it's not even a note anybody really needs to be listening to. He's all smoke and mirrors. It seems like he thinks the more straps and seams and ties he adds to a short little dress the "cooler" it will be. I can't picture a single one of these pieces looking good off these annoying IT models, too. And even they don't look good in them!

It's just so cheesy to me - to have all these big flashy models like Anja and Karlie and Arizona walk his show. It's so student and it just goes to show that he has no real point of view of his own to prove.

Ok fashion is subjective, and we're each entitled to our opinion, but, personally I would wish to paint a very different picture.

I am choosy with which fashion critics and editors I truly give plaudits to. Not influenced by that whole 'position status' 'in va industry' thing, But I think most of us would respect the views of those on the ANDAM panel.

From NYT OnTheRunway
June 30th 2011


Honors From a French Jury

By JESSICA MICHAULT


The fashion designer Anthony Vaccarello.

Anthony Vaccarello has a new accolade to add to his list of accomplishments. The 31-year-old Belgian designer has been named this year’s winner of the ANDAM Fashion Award, the French equivalent of the Council of Fashion Designers of America prize. He follows in the footsteps of past winners who include Giles Deacon, Gareth Pugh, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren of Viktor & Rolf, and Martin Margiela.

Chosen by a jury of fashion heavyweights like Pierre Bergé, Delphine Arnault, Nadja Swarovski and Emmanuelle Alt, Mr. Vaccarello will use his 200,000 euro prize money (about $288,000) to finance his next Paris runway show in October as well as open up a design studio in Paris.

Mr. Vaccarello said that although he was happy and honored to have been recognized by the ANDAM jury for his work, he did not plan to let the award affect how he would go about --------building his company. “I am going to do what I always did, and that is to grow the brand slowly and steadily,” he said when reached by phone on Thursday

--------------------------------------
Me -

One of the interesting things about this was the past winners were by and large from the avant garde. Anthony is not. More in the spirit of Versace perhaps.

But this collection did get edgier. It's still a horny teenage boys wetdream on the sex part of the equation - and christ the person that said the models didn't look good - were you looking at the same show I was!?! - But on the edge side, the influence of Emmanuelle Alt is clear to see. Seems to me Anthony is the new Christophe? Relative to seasons past, the new spirit is palpably, obviously, toward Decarnin's Balmain.

My post will be getting overlong so I will post a review of looks seperately.
But I just wanted to make a start on redressing the balance of appreciation.

I apologise that I struggle with posting videos but here is a link. I really do think that 9 times out of 10 one will best appreciate a show in movement. Compared with the stills.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8Wv0frOqW0

 

[MyNameIs]

I liked his last season's collection and it's definitely not nearly as good this time around. Most of the looks seem sloppy and messy. The construction seems lacking.

 

[Tentacl Ventricl]

I liked his last season's collection and it's definitely not nearly as good this time around. Most of the looks seem sloppy and messy. The construction seems lacking.

What you're seeing as 'sloppy/messy', on one hand is just your eye being straight, on the other it's just the new slouch in his expression. Call it the Alt slouch if you will. It's the ease that takes his smarter sexy position of previous work into a new edge. That the dresses are cut-draped with more 'away from the body' louche swing (as moved Versace this season) doesn't mean the pieces are poorly constructed! I will bet you they are not. You may be mistaking a production point for slouch and ease in how the clothes are to speak on the wearer? The truth is, I suspect, that you haven't, and can't, actually see anything about the technical proficiencies from the photos.

 

[Littleathquakes]

What you're seeing as 'sloppy/messy', on one hand is just your eye being straight, on the other it's just the new slouch in his expression. Call it the Alt slouch if you will. It's the ease that takes his smarter sexy position of previous work into a new edge. That the dresses are cut-draped with more 'away from the body' louche swing (as moved Versace this season) doesn't mean the pieces are poorly constructed! I will bet you they are not. You may be mistaking a production point for slouch and ease in how the clothes are to speak on the wearer? The truth is, I suspect, that you haven't, and can't, actually see anything about the technical proficiencies from the photos.

If you're saying it's impossible to see the technical proficiency from the photos, how are you so sure that there are, if any, proficiencies to be observed?

 

[Tentacl Ventricl]

Anthony Vaccarello triumphantly sailed into new territory with a breathtaking offering for what is sure to be a high octane SS13.

The 2011 ANDAM award winner took his signature asymmetric slashing of hems - often to the thigh - and reimagined the diagonal as draped sails and crossover skirtpieces leaving little to the imagination. A nautical theme (and naughty of course) but no hackneyed blue and white stripes or somesuch for Vaccarello. Sails, bolt holes, an easy breezy theme. The windblown hair (seen first, and to devestating effect, on Cara Delevingne) signaled the underlying push of the work - movement - as yacht sails might blow in the wind. But there were no ropes. There was no tack. Vaccarello barely fastened his girl's attire. We were led to feel that, louchely, the combination of speed and wind may well blow it all apart, away.

And blown away we were. By the sheer weights of slouchy shirtdresses. By zips - on the diagonal of course - right across both breasts of black, vaguely bikerish shirts, or running dangerously high across one thigh, later two. By a deep navel plunge here and there. And of course by those parting cross-over skirts.

The black and white opening chimes with the monochrome trend we've seen (frankly too much of in NYC) but Vaccerello didn't overpower the eye with busy geometries. He kept it simple. Such that we barely noticed. Later a starry night was evoked. Again on gently sheer pieces. The naughty nautical night? Jourdan Dunn's look seemed please to see us. These girls have balls

Metallics continued to drape. Fluidly. With boyfriend captain jackets (sleeved heaved up Miami Vice/Duran Duran vid stylie). There is something 80's glam about the Vaccarello signatures -in the diagonals. And in the whole unabashed luxeglam. But now with Alt ease.

The metallics then morphed into some big sea-cat prints. Tigers, or leopards, of the ocean. Spray. At look 26 Aline Weber was evoking omg Debbie Harry at her prime. The diagonal signature pushed up to an asymmetric top. Just as it had been on Anja Rubik's opening look. Again with the jacket of the captain boyfriend. The Vaccarello woman being on the arm of the man in charge. And who steers. With his rudder. Fast. The wind. The rush. The heady rush.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

I dislike that skirt cut he went with so whole-heartedly, with the criss-cross construction - that would be very difficult to WEAR in most of the lengths shown. And, I don't like the trousers; I don't find them flattering at all. Overall, it's just not my taste - too trashy.

But I agree with you Tentacl Ventricl that he may be going after a Balmain look, only it's not nearly as "rock n roll" in my opinion. It doesn't have the luxe.

 

[TianSoFine]

I think it's sexy and fun and interesting. I'm surprised everyone dislikes this that much.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

Nice write up Tentacl; even though I didn't like the collection much I liked your review and can appreciate the diagonal lines in the tops, sort of....

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

I watched the video. For me this collections looks like a ZARA display.
Those cargo pants, little dress, jackets with rolled sleeves...

 

[Tentacl Ventricl]

I dislike that skirt cut he went with so whole-heartedly, with the criss-cross construction - that would be very difficult to WEAR in most of the lengths shown. And, I don't like the trousers; I don't find them flattering at all. Overall, it's just not my taste - too trashy.

But I agree with you Tentacl Ventricl that he may be going after a Balmain look, only it's not nearly as "rock n roll" in my opinion. It doesn't have the luxe.

WearabilitySwearability . Ok one would have to have a tidy upperthigh and well chosen panties, but let me paint you the context (wearability being all about time/place/occasion?) A hot summer's night, sultry. A major European city or resort. Fine dining. The hottest clubs. Ok, exiting the low chassis of the supercar, mine or yours, in AV, is going to be, well, let's say interesting. Of course, most of us are not this flashy on a daily basis but for a bit of buzzy escapism...

 

[elle_gb]

I don't particularly love it but i don't hate it as well.

 

[BerlinRocks]

dont care for the collection, what i liked is that great location

everybody was freezing but at least it was interesting to show in an open industrial area
yeah!

It looks like the basement of the IFM... Wasn't it ?