October 9, 2009
Sport Alaïa
By SUZY MENKES
PARIS — Azzedine Alaïa knows exactly who he is and the values that he stands for. But the skill of the designer is to tilt his precise vision to the look of the moment. So there was a surprise start to the collection the designer sent out Thursday before a crowd of eager buyers and his most faithful client, Naomi Campbell.
A sporty vibe energized the show as stretch biker shorts were teamed with streamlined white cotton blouses — that turned to show two soft bows at the back.
This play on hard and soft was so subtly done that Mr. Alaïa’s signature dresses, flaring from the waist, had inserts of crystal piping — a more sophisticated version of the ubiquitous summer sequins.
From coats sculpted in black or white, to the famous snug Alaïa jacket in python or leather, the designer showed his signature skills, craftsmanship and a nose for the new.
Transparency? There were vaporous organza dresses with a whirlpool of pattern. Utility? A cotton dress apparently wrapped round the body like an apron but actually was worked with hidden seams.
The 1980s? There was a suit woven by hand with leather and metal mesh. Mr Alaïa was, after all, the king of the 1980s. And a quarter of a century on, he has kept his royal fashion status.