The middle section is, in a way, the easiest to "get" and the most commercial part of the collection. The beginning seems to be all about the future, with those stark architectural jackets, the middle is more "familar" (present?), and the final section somehow speaks to the past, but yet modifies it - witness that crazy postmodern revisionism of the hats! And the long skirt (50s-ish) that so many designers have been riffing on. But none of the references in this Balenciaga show are "direct" or "easy" or even "playful", so the effect is defamiliarizing for the most part. I find I like to sit with his collections for a while before deciding what I like and don't like. This reminds me a little of Proenza this spring in that neither collection is what was "expected," and there's a darkness in both.