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Balenciaga S/S 2020 Paris

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Absolutely love the dresses, trench coats and leather jackets of this collection. It's cool, refreshing and exciting.
Mens looks are a complete cheap mess, though.

Also, not convinced about the Hello kitty bags...
 
Maybe Hedi should present his collections the day after Balenciaga...
Because his lazy 70’s revival gives me more than this.

I’m feeling more and more indifferent towards Demna’s work.
I wonder if he can offer something else than this...

The only show i’m Kinda excited about from a big brand is Vuitton as most of the big players are playing safe and giving alterations of successful past work.
 
I appreciate that Demna earnestly went for a couture Balenciaga and tailored formal wear for men and women. However the 80s shoulders kills it for me, he needs to let those go a bit because it is dated and tacky. Idk if he’s trying to beat us over the head with the look until we accept it but it’s been so many seasons now. I also am tired of the “normcore” look of just a t shirt or athletic shirt and track pants at Balenciaga. Off-White can keep that crap.

I like the mens suits at the end but that’s it. I’m ok with the baggy, casual clothes Demna does since he seems to do that better and more naturally than most of his peers. Probably because he actually dresses that way himself.

Idk if I can keep waiting for him to do something that truly surprises me.
 
Looks like a "Best of" kind of collection (or "Worst of", depending on the point of view).
I am not fan of Demna's but I admit that in the past few seasons at Balenciaga he was definitely pushing himself more with shapes and cut.
This feels like a pause collection, coming straight after his decision of leaving Vetements...is he going through a slight burn-out, like fellow Hypebeasts-idol Virgil, consumed by frenetic years of pilfering other people's ideas?
 
Pretty much a recycling of stuff he's done before. The same exaggerated shoulders, the same 80s prints, the same skin thigh dresses, the same shoes... whatever charm his clothes had, it's wearing thin by now. I like the menswear tailoring pieces but they're pretty basic.

Raf did something similar to those dresses for Dior HC 2014 that were far more tasteful and actually wearable.
 
Nah.

I thought he was on to something last season....the tailoring was really chic and the whole look was more real and grown up.

These shoulders and puffed up proportions are jokey looking.
 
I'm not really a Demna fan but there was a good interview with him in FT yesterday & I appreciate that he's focused on the archives and adapting the structure and exaggerated silhouettes to the 21st century. This collection does look more adult.

Demna Gvasalia: the activist at Balenciaga

I have an issue with him in that some of these pieces look great & I can see where he's going with it but IRL they look soooo try-hard. (Maybe it's the people that gravitate to this?) Saw a gentleman on the subway yesterday in head to toe balenciaga & it's the same sensation I get when I see logomania, etc. Just looks cheap. It's not a fashion lover's designer - it's a meme.

Perhaps that's why Vetements is going to die a quick death without him at the brand. Those clothing only have a certain amount of longevity. Interested to see if the streetwear bubble pops in the next year or two.
 
I feel sad looking at these clothes it seems like the Berlin Wall is still up with Germany still divided into east and west and the Soviet Union is still around. This is how depressed this collection is making me feel by just looking at the pictures and the facial expression on these models is not helping and seems to be telling me pathetic this collection is.

I can’t bear to look another eye at this collection.

It’s just... sad. There’s no joy in these clothes. Demna took the joy out of Balenciaga.
 
What is the stretchy, skin tight fabric he keeps using every season? I just call it carseat fabric since it looks like the seats in my parents cars when I was little... I think it is some weird 3d printing thing he does.
 
I think streetwear will always be around and more than that, it will always be part of Balenciaga’s narrative.
The revival of Balenciaga that started with Nicolas Ghesquiere started with streetwear that was sometimes called Street-Couture at the time. Nicolas got his success by elevating classic casual pieces that are component of the streetwear aesthetic: cargo pants and short, tank tops, bomber jackets, motorcycle jackets, jeans, parkas, khakis pants, oversized blazers...etc.

He elevated those items and they became instant classics of timeless style.
Demna’s body of work will be dated maybe except for his debut collection because it created the base for a new approach of Nicolas’s staples...something that Wang didn’t managed to do.

A puffer jacket worn like a kind of Opera evening coat, with a perfectly cut black pant and an embroidered top is elevation. Big shoulders on a coat is gimmicky...
 
This collection (and all the collections he has done so far at Balenciaga) are as ridiculous as going to an expensive haute cuisine restaurant just to order some hamburgers, a couple of Cokes and french fries...what a waste!

You can tell he doesn´t love making clothes. He is just in for the money and the fame.
 
Lola701 said:
I think streetwear will always be around and more than that, it will always be part of Balenciaga’s narrative.
The revival of Balenciaga that started with Nicolas Ghesquiere started with streetwear that was sometimes called Street-Couture at the time. Nicolas got his success by elevating classic casual pieces that are component of the streetwear aesthetic: cargo pants and short, tank tops, bomber jackets, motorcycle jackets, jeans, parkas, khakis pants, oversized blazers...etc.

He elevated those items and they became instant classics of timeless style.
Demna’s body of work will be dated maybe except for his debut collection because it created the base for a new approach of Nicolas’s staples...something that Wang didn’t managed to do.

A puffer jacket worn like a kind of Opera evening coat, with a perfectly cut black pant and an embroidered top is elevation. Big shoulders on a coat is gimmicky...
Click to expand...

This is a great post and well said.
 
I did not hate it. Menswear part was really weak though. Demna is for me very inoffensive and does not bring anymore to the conversation but he always creates some nice looks to buy or to use for editorials and I don't expect more than that.
 
After watching the runway video, I kind of understand more about what Demna was going for. It has a theme of espionage, stalking and people following each other. I think one thing that is at least consistent with him is his shows always feel kind of cinematic (good or bad idk). Again, clothes still not doing it for me since that’s what counts ultimately in a fashion presentation.
 
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