Balmain, Christophe Decarnin parting ways

[style_expert]

^ http://www.style.com/stylefile/2011/04/olivier-rousteing-named-designer-of-balmain/

Update: Melanie Ward, the legendary stylist and Helmut Lang alum who was brought in to work on the Fall ‘11 collection and was considered one potential candidate to take the reins after Christophe Decarnin’s departure, will no longer be working with the label

 

[thejarc]

Thank you for confirming.

 

[mikeijames]

As much as I value your often well-articulated point of views, I find it rather surprising (and indeed, also confusing) that you think of speaking for 'the' fashion insider's general opinion.

I guess the overall sentiments in the press have so far been rather reserved on judging the replacement decision at Balmain and it would be wise to let the guy show his first official solo outing for the house before calling him 'the fashion scene's new darling' based on the fact that a single flattering picture was issued to the press.

while we all wait with baited breath at his first offerings as headliner at this house, we cannot discount that in the world of the marquee designer the superficial does have play. let's not kid ourselves: while tom ford, marc jacobs, and so many others garner respect for their wares, they can attribute some of their celebrity in the fashion world to their good looks.

 

[tricotineacetat]

while we all wait with baited breath at his first offerings as headliner at this house, we cannot discount that in the world of the marquee designer the superficial does have play. let's not kid ourselves: while tom ford, marc jacobs, and so many others garner respect for their wares, they can attribute some of their celebrity in the fashion world to their good looks.

Yes, but the customer can't be fooled to buy into a collection based on the good looks of a designer - With a heavyweight as Tom Ford, it was more so the overall definition of a lifestyle and attitude that made him a powerful trademark - it took him more than a few seasons to define that and make people recognize it.

The fashion industry is full of good looking editors, buyers, designers that you cannot rely on that to hide mediocre talent. More than anything, you need to have both the support of the managing board in your company (likely by issuing collections that allow for the commercial growth of a fashion house) as well as the press to communicate that to the end customer. I assume noone is expecting Balmain to abandon the vague success formula they have established under Decarnin's tenure and thus, they will keep with what made the brand sell albeit high price points. As was already mentioned in several articles, it wasn't necessary to associate the face of Christophe Decarnin to the product and it is very likely that few of the people that bought from them knew who was the designer that actually designed the clothes.

 

[agee]

Yes, but the customer can't be fooled to buy into a collection based on the good looks of a designer - With a heavyweight as Tom Ford, it was more so the overall definition of a lifestyle and attitude that made him a powerful trademark - it took him more than a few seasons to define that and make people recognize it.

He is not walking into a tabula rasa situation, Balmainia although dissipated, is still around.

The fashion industry is full of good looking editors, buyers, designers that you cannot rely on that to hide mediocre talent.

I'm not so sure about that, especially in the short term.

Rousteing is an insider and I guess a key factor is was he one of the contributors to Balmain's success and if so, can he replicate it and also move it forward. If I am interpreting correctly, he was put in charge of the atelier during the height of Balmainia, so presumably the guy brings something to the table.

 

[style_expert]

The number one contributor to Balmain's success was Emmanuelle Alt more than anyone else, I'd say. It'll be interesting to see how they move on without her.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Melanie is leaving too. She's not going to work with the new designer.

Is she not the editor of whom Karl spoke?

OMG he's gorgeous ...

 

[mikeijames]

Is she not the editor of whom Karl spoke?

OMG he's gorgeous ...

actually, emmanuelle is the ediatrix.

 

[mikeijames]

Yes, but the customer can't be fooled to buy into a collection based on the good looks of a designer - With a heavyweight as Tom Ford, it was more so the overall definition of a lifestyle and attitude that made him a powerful trademark - it took him more than a few seasons to define that and make people recognize it.

The fashion industry is full of good looking editors, buyers, designers that you cannot rely on that to hide mediocre talent. More than anything, you need to have both the support of the managing board in your company (likely by issuing collections that allow for the commercial growth of a fashion house) as well as the press to communicate that to the end customer. I assume noone is expecting Balmain to abandon the vague success formula they have established under Decarnin's tenure and thus, they will keep with what made the brand sell albeit high price points. As was already mentioned in several articles, it wasn't necessary to associate the face of Christophe Decarnin to the product and it is very likely that few of the people that bought from them knew who was the designer that actually designed the clothes.

in the fashion industry, as in many other industries, there exist those successful folk who reside just underneath the media radar, then there exist those who blossom both behind the scenes and in front of the camera. while someone's outward appearance does not replace talent, it definitely has a way of getting key audiences to take a second look at that talent.

one could say the similar things for a tony social network, a celebrity pedigree, or a prominent family name.

 

[tricotineacetat]

in the fashion industry, as in many other industries, there exist those successful folk who reside just underneath the media radar, then there exist those who blossom both behind the scenes and in front of the camera. while someone's outward appearance does not replace talent, it definitely has a way of getting key audiences to take a second look at that talent.

one could say the similar things for a tony social network, a celebrity pedigree, or a prominent family name.

Christophe Decarnin probably was the antithesis to what you just said. Yet again, you know better than anyone that all the buzz was due to him and the distinct identity he created for Balmain with Emmanuelle Alt (One look at how she sexed-up Isabel Marant at the same time and you know just why her business became the new, cooler-choice Chloé).

Besides the fact that Balmain is one of the historical couture houses on the Paris fashion landscape, it will be due to it's previous success with buyers and press that the opinion leaders in the industry will continue to come and see what Mr. Rousteing can bring to the label.

 

[mikeijames]

Christophe Decarnin probably was the antithesis to what you just said. Yet again, you know better than anyone that all the buzz was due to him and the distinct identity he created for Balmain with Emmanuelle Alt (One look at how she sexed-up Isabel Marant at the same time and you know just why her business became the new, cooler-choice Chloé).

Besides the fact that Balmain is one of the historical couture houses on the Paris fashion landscape, it will be due to it's previous success with buyers and press that the opinion leaders in the industry will continue to come and see what Mr. Rousteing can bring to the label.

christophe decarnin represents the former unsuccessfully forged unto the latter by the very ediatrix in question. while the collections and their sales will forever speak for themselves, the buzz and the hype around the label owe themselves not to decarnin's celebrity but to alt's unsubtle hand.

anyone who rises to head the house of balmain will no doubt get judged on the work of their hands and the revenue they bring to the house, but let's face it: if this olivier's talent turns a success at the house, his looks and personality have the potential to usher him to marquee status with others of his ilk (like dundas, another cavalli alum).

 

[tricotineacetat]

canyone who rises to head the house of balmain will no doubt get judged on the work of their hands and the revenue they bring to the house, but let's face it: if this olivier's talent turns a success at the house, his looks and personality have the potential to usher him to marquee status with others of his ilk (like dundas, another cavalli alum).

He will succeed to rise to this league only if he manages to keep Balmain both commercially and editorially valid, as well as to give it a distinct stamp of his own - Simply keeping with the present winning formula without broadening the houses' target audience to other markets and/or price ranges would not work to keep the business expanding in the longer run (and by that, I mean a period of no more than five years).

Taking into account that Balmain's CEO disbanded with Decarnin due to disagreements over the houses' positioning and development, I can only assume they chose Rousteing for the reason that he would be more obedient to follow such intentions.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

Can we please experience what it's like to type in 'Olivier Rousteing' on google images.
This must be the only image of him that exists.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ Hilarious ... 91,800 images ... all the same. This guy has kept an amazingly low profile ...

 

[Kite]

Has anyone ever searched google Images for Olivier Rousteing? Its so funny. Its like there has only ever been one image of him EVER taken.

so cute.

 

[Littleathquakes]

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA that's hilarious. I mean literally one pic on the whole entire internet

 

[Kite]

it goes on for pages and pages and pages.....but thats it. We shall have to wait till Sept/Oct to see what he looks like in the flesh/in the full at the end of the show.