Balmain Menswear F/W 2024.25 Paris

This is actually a great collection.
I think it was somehow chic, much more subtle than usual and quite multi-layered. I saw some French surrealism but also Les Zazous mixed with eastern African influences but also Les Sapeurs from Congo in the flamboyance of the mix of colors.

Olivier’s work can be borderline caricature but I think here it was fun but with some elegant touches. I think he nailed the man in heels better than Vaccarello for example!

I was less thrilled to see those face jewelry that are very largely inspired by Sarah Diouf’s work for Tongoro. If it’s a collab, yes…If not, do better Olivier!

And yes, Naomi closing does not mean anything anymore. I prefer seeing Liya Kebede…Or if he wants an viral moment, call Iman or even Tyra Banks.

I suspect we might see her again for Couture then…Either at Valentino or Schiaparelli.
 
My country too,
It's not my cup of tea, but I appreciate the boldness of Olivier's point of view. It's refreshing to see personality in fashion...
And that black and white spencer on look 40 will be mine...
 
You can't blame him for at least trying, but this is just a mess. He is attempting to step out of his comfort zone, but does it by borrowing almost too literally from many designers who show in the same city (Daniel Roseberry, Jonathan Anderson, Glenn Martens, or Martine Rose). Altogether, it just feels really messy. It's like someone drowning who tries to grab at anything in hopes of staying afloat.
 
I really enjoyed this show. Balmain is one of those tacky, bad taste brands, but they do it so well. Only real complaint was the Naomi Campbell shtick and the opening model randomly stopping twice during his walk:
 
That first coat made me smile lol. But overall I think he's trying way too hard. It looks like he's been getting in his own head way too much recently with this like drag race adhd level of ideas and design. I know there's a certain type of person who goes for this stuff anyways but we've seen him be more refined with that aesthetic before. Put down the phone. I know the struggle babes lol
 
I do have a soft spot for Olivier because I know he loves what he does and you can see it through the clothes. I am happy with what I see even though he can be a bit literal. I love how he finds the right balance between the stunts and fashion itself.
 
i'm starting to question his taste level ~~~ also way too much reference from the other designer
 

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