Boudicca Exorcise Their Fashion Ghosts
September 23, 2004 - London
A remote zip factory in East London transformed into a strobe lit volcanic pit, and filled with pulsating reverb was the last thing fashionistas needed after a long day of shows. Especially as it ran ninety minutes late, and the damp black sand coating the floor ruined several pairs of expensive designer shoes. Still, Zowie Broach and Brian Kirkby the intense, but immensely talented, couple behind Boudicca enjoy a special status in London, though the goodwill towards their “tortured artist” personae may be running out.
The Boudicca proposition for Spring? A collection entitled “The Beautiful and the Insane” that came out 90 per cent black, and 50/50 sexy and tough. Sharply cut black trouser suits hung with straps and pockets, paired with white cotton shirting sliced into various stark silhouettes from precise sleeveless waistcoats, to draped tunics and traditional shirts took up the first third of the show. Then the collection moved into what they are best at, beautiful day and eveningwear made from black French lace and oil slick black silk jersey. Draped below knee jersey skirts, layered cotton and chiffon blouses, French lace leggings, and sheer lace dresses, or variations thereof completed the collection. Take the complex looks apart and there are beautiful clothes to covet notably their shiny black silk jersey draped tops, elegantly flounced skirts and a leather jacket laser cut to look like complex lace.
Their inspirations often have nothing to do with how the clothes look; rather these shape their state of mind. This time it was “taking ideas from the concepts behind the art of Inka Essenhigh,” said Brian Kirkby post-show. “We were thinking about what we have done, and what we are going to do and it lead us to think of our fashion ghosts. This collection ended up with the memory of previous collections haunting it."
“Clothes are beautiful things to play with,” says Zowie Broach, “We played with layering That is why you saw a shirt with extra ‘ghostly sleeves.’ Our spring summer is being haunted by the autumn winter one.” Right then.