Burberry F/W 2022.23 London | the Fashion Spot

Burberry F/W 2022.23 London

That was the best Burberry collection by Riccardo yet.
One of those shows i wished i saw live. hair, makeup, styling - finally all really strong. Hope he continues in this direction.
Women’s was especially fab!! Great styling, great casting.
 
Oh, the trench coat dresses look fabulous!

There's still a lot of his Givenchy aesthetic over this collection, but I'll take it. It feels more elegant and clever. Boots look great and desirable too!
 
Is it a introduction for Burberry Couture by Tisci ?

Well done a nice collection from Riccardo where I'm not to lost here it has a good balance between the DNA of Burberry and the Tisci touch , even If some silhouette remind me a lot of his Givenchy days.
The construction is quite solid and I'm now curious to see these trench dresses in real life.
 
His best for Burberry so far. By far.

But I’m still not sold. I just don’t believe Burberry as this serious, dark, brooding, gothic brand. It just isn’t - and even when he plays with the codes…does the trench, does the Nova check, etc…it’s just done in a way that doesn’t feel like Burberry.

Burberry is heritage, cheery, crusty, charming, British, blue-blood, it’s very day - not really an evening brand, etc, etc.…none of these things are found in Riccardo’s work here…or in his work ever…I don’t even get why he was picked in the first place.
 
I actually like it, unlike in the past this time around you can see hints of Burberry
 
Wow! That show was marvelous. The collection was consistent and the presentation was impactful. One thing about the Tisci woman is she is always strong and c*nty (need to know the name of opening model for when the women's portion started, she set the tone right away).
 
My favorite Burberry collection from him. This is the perfect balance between Riccardo and Burberry.

I like that this time he allowed the clothes to be simple. There are no complicated styling tricks or unnecessary cutouts on the garments. This is the essence of his aesthetic that combines with the elements of Burberry.

My favorite looks are the evening gowns. Those 3 beige trenchcoats gowns are fabulous. That is what I want from Riccardo. Use the classics Burberry codes and twist it with his techniques.
 
Eh… just typical of him at this point: Some sweeping, darkly romantic, intricate silhouettes— followed by the forced insertion of basic logo outlet merch. The nova checks will never work with his sensibility: It will forever be jarring and obnoxious no matter how well constructed the design may be. Just give it up. Christopher’s reintroduction of the checks was so effortless, organic and expensive for his Prorsum. Ricarddo’s is just cheap, cheap, cheap. And depressing.

Weird that despite it being a relatively short and tight collection, it feels so bloated and unnecessarily drags. And whoever’s doing the lighting needs to be fired: So unflattering that the mediocre cast all look like their hairline is receding by the second.
 
All I can see here is Tisci's usual tortured Burberry mixed with some couture silhouettes. But actually, do those gowns make any sense for this particular brand? I don't think so. Same with the bourgeois looks taken straight from his Givenchy tenure. All those looks are too... French in a way and look out of place at Burberry, which should be essentially British. It's obvious that Riccardo wanted to cover it up with the production, but it was as awkward as the whole collection.

This Tisci x Burberry match is literally pointless. It's getting obvious that he's been struggling to create something successful, but I just can't see it happening and he's been there since 2018.
 
^^^ My problem is that despite how admittedly skilled and seasoned some of the designs are, it all feels so old, tired hat. And it’s been like that with his Burberry from the start. When he reappropriated, repurposed Gaultier’s classic kilts over pants and suiting silhouette for his Givenchy, it felt passably newish and appropriate since he introduced a level of street sensibility of which Gaultier’s was more couture-y. Now with Burberry, it really is nothing more than a lazy rip-off of Gautleir— down to the trench gowns. Worse, it feels so imposter-designer at this point. I’ve worked with independent designers who have done the trench gown with a more refreshing context than what he’s doing here. He’s still a capable designer no doubt, but he’s clearly just coasting on the same old same old Givenchy templates. I guess this would impress someone who’s born post-2000… Hustling that dumb baseball cap and the check basics are likely enough for this brand. No one is buying the more Givenchy-esque pieces in 2022 when people can still buy his Givenchy at resale.

HIs boredom, hubris and simply indifference really comes through with this Burberry.
 

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