Burberry S/S 2020 London

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

Imgbox appears to be down, apologies for the small Postimage thumbnails.

 

[jeanclaude]

109 looks...I´d rather see a strong, well-edited 30 looks collection than this neverending mess...

 

[Lola701]

Maybe his most cohesive collection in the uncohesion of his whole Burberry situation.
Very Hits and misses, a lot to take from both sides but it really feels like the CEO asked Riccardo to fill the stores and Riccardo just poured clothes.

The menswear is mostly bad....

It’s a lot to take in but I think it’s his most « London » collection. As this shows, doing the two sides things cannot last forever. It just shows the limits.
I hope the sales will be great enough for him to be able to focus on a singular vision. Commerce is fine but Riccardo’s potential cannot be wasted for the sake of it.

 

[perfect blue]

I really enjoyed this collection actually, even though it was a bit overblown in quantity. I think it was the energy I got from the show, whether it was the music, set design. The last two songs in the show reminded me of when I used to dj as a teenager. I got nostalgic because at that time of my life I thought I found my purpose. What a weird reaction from me to this collection lol.

This is Riccardo’s best collection from Burberry so far. Some of the pieces I definitely don’t care for and find forgettable, like the polos and t shirts he seems to bring every season... However, the suits were really beautiful. I especially liked the mens grey suit with the blue shirt. Then the women’s suits. The dresses at the end remind me of his time at Givenchy.

I hope he grows more and dials down on a point of view for Burberry. The critiques everyone has stated so far, I agree with and find valid.

 

[aracic]

God, what a sad mess. So many looks, yet so little inspiration. Nothing here feels new or innovative, it's a waste of resources and everyone's time!
I don't understand the purpose of a fashion show nowadays. This would have the same impact if it was presented on mannequins set up around a studio - it's lifeless. There's no soul, no identity, nothing. The clothes aren't even pretty to look at! What's with all the unicorn texts? That ''I am a unicorn'' tag on Rianne's dress made me laugh out loud. What self-respecting grown woman would actually wear a dress that says ''I am a unicorn''? Hideous.
As for the menswear... it's just pointless. Mens clothes are boring and they never change so there's literally no point in showing a collection of clothes that could be found anywhere across the globe in same/similar shape, print and color.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

The menswear is mostly bad....

The menswear is horrendous.

I’m sorry, but I think we can finally say that the experiment that is Riccardo Tisci for Burberry is not a success.

This is an overproduced lousy mess.

I think it’s the combination of a bad fit and the fact that the fashion mood of the moment is not quite in Riccardo’s favor.

I can’t really think of a way they can turn this around without getting a new designer.

 

[perfect blue]

The menswear does seem questionable.

 

[Marc10]

Sigh... the same problems still hovering over. We're 3 seasons in, and l still have absolutely no idea what his vision for Burberry is; what is the identity; who is the costumer. And this problem comes because it appears that he (or the suits breathing down his neck) wants to throw the kitchen sink on the runway and try to appeal to each and every type of costumer out there. It's almost like if a department store made a fashion show of everything they have in stock. It's a shocking lack of commitment and strong creative direction from a designer who used to excel so well in that. We know the saying, quality over quantity.

I'm sure there's a very good collection (or even two) somewhere in the midst of all this stuff. He just needs to learn how to present it.

 

[apple]

I am a unicorn? Seriously?

What a mess.. 109 useless looks. If he used some of the good ideas, focused on them and created less looks it might have been okay.

 

[Phuel]

This would have the same impact if it was presented on mannequins set up around a studio - it's lifeless.

The outlet-level styling would look infinitely better presented on mannequins.

So much clothes with nothing to say—except commercially-friendly? And despite the corporate diverse casting, everyone blends into a generic look with no individuality. Though some of the few stronger designs do still possess some semblance to his what his talent is capable of. Just that they’re so mired in a department-store aesthetic to appease the shareholders and to be instantly accessible to the lowest common denominator that only wants to wear an expensive logo, that there’s no personality to any of this. Still, I’ll happily take all of this nothingness over the hyped blandness of J.W. or Jacquemus. Riccardo's not that awful yet.

He looks so unhappy at this label.

 

[Nomar]

I thought it started off quite strong but then the came the streetwear....

 

[dior_couture1245]

At least he dropped the streetwear. That was so out of touch, it was painful to see it.

Glad that what remained was the beige bougie half of the branding.

But....I know I am a broken record here on the Burberry question....Tisci’s Burberry is so soulless and so un-British. It’s really sad. Another brand bites the dust, another brand falling victim to the curse of globalization.

The CEO’s/Board of Director’s...whatever it is they have here....have sold out the British soul and identity and character of this brand in pursuits of the homogenous international market.

The effect of globalism is to erase the unique qualities of different cultures and blur them all into one eager and reliable consumer unit. Tragic.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

At least he dropped the streetwear. That was so out of touch, it was painful to see it.

Glad that what remained was the beige bougie half of the branding.

But....I know I am a broken record here on the Burberry question....Tisci’s Burberry is so soulless and so un-British. It’s really sad. Another brand bites the dust, another brand falling victim to the curse of globalization.

The CEO’s/Board of Director’s...whatever it is they have here....have sold out the British soul and identity and character of this brand in pursuits of the homogenous international market.

The effect of globalism is to erase the unique qualities of different cultures and blur them all into one eager and reliable consumer unit. Tragic.

Sometimes an unexpected pairing can turn really great. Sometimes not.

A lot of you had misgivings about Ricardo at Burberry. Turns out you were all right.

Anybody have any idea how this stuff is selling? With what I've seen in stores and online, I can't believe it doing well at all.

 

[Lola701]

Sometimes an unexpected pairing can turn really great. Sometimes not.

A lot of you had misgivings about Ricardo at Burberry. Turns out you were all right.

Anybody have any idea how this stuff is selling? With what I've seen in stores and online, I can't believe it doing well at all.

What strikes me when I went to the store (I was in the US at the time) was how people were all over the logo and mostly streetwear stuff and how the bourgeois part spoke more to a fashion customer...Or at least active women.

And I must say that his stuff is too ambitious for a brand like Burberry. Something like what Hedi is doing can be interesting for Burberry: simple pieces with good accessible styling.

Riccardo’s stuff is just too « edgy » for Burberry. And the prices! My god! Great blouses but insane pricing...When you think about all the outlets Burberry has all around the world, you think twice before buying anything.

Riccardo is lucky because he has a faithful clientele. I love his womenswear but I don’t think we feel the pleasure in his offering.

I get the idea of transforming Burberry into a luxury brand but when I see his feather dresses, I just want to send Riccardo at Versace right away.

 

[Fiercification]

Once again, a pretty collection of nothing. His Burberry is painfully unmemorable, a problem exacerbated by the need to show what's effectively an entire store's worth of product in one show. So how could anyone remember anything? A lot of this stuff needs to be relegated to a lookbook!

For me he almost has the reverse problem to Nicolas; he produces some (emphasis on some) beautiful clothes, but they don't say anything or feel relevant. Meanwhile Ghesquiere's work for Vuitton is consistently ugly, but somehow it still feels relevant...it's like his word is still the last in fashion. Tisci just doesn't have that kind of authority, or at least it's not coming through here.

I don't see this collaboration going anywhere good anytime soon, sadly. Riccardo just isn't brining enough British-ness to the brand. As stuffy and MOR as some of Bailey's designs were, he connected with Burberry so perfectly that when he sent out a hit collection or pieces (F/W 2010 military coats) it was a real hit and moment for the brand.

 

[Lola701]

Once again, a pretty collection of nothing. His Burberry is painfully unmemorable, a problem exacerbated by the need to show what's effectively an entire store's worth of product in one show. So how could anyone remember anything? A lot of this stuff needs to be relegated to a lookbook!

For me he almost has the reverse problem to Nicolas; he produces some (emphasis on some) beautiful clothes, but they don't say anything or feel relevant. Meanwhile Ghesquiere's work for Vuitton is consistently ugly, but somehow it still feels relevant...it's like his word is still the last in fashion. Tisci just doesn't have that kind of authority, or at least it's not coming through here.

I don't see this collaboration going anywhere good anytime soon, sadly. Riccardo just isn't brining enough British-ness to the brand. As stuffy and MOR as some of Bailey's designs were, he connected with Burberry so perfectly that when he sent out a hit collection or pieces (F/W 2010 military coats) it was a real hit and moment for the brand.

Now that you said that, imagine if Riccardo does a rendition of his Givenchy FW07 for Burberry! Money in the bank!

 

[perfect blue]

What strikes me when I went to the store (I was in the US at the time) was how people were all over the logo and mostly streetwear stuff and how the bourgeois part spoke more to a fashion customer...Or at least active women.

And I must say that his stuff is too ambitious for a brand like Burberry. Something like what Hedi is doing can be interesting for Burberry: simple pieces with good accessible styling.

Riccardo’s stuff is just too « edgy » for Burberry. And the prices! My god! Great blouses but insane pricing...When you think about all the outlets Burberry has all around the world, you think twice before buying anything.

Riccardo is lucky because he has a faithful clientele. I love his womenswear but I don’t think we feel the pleasure in his offering.

I get the idea of transforming Burberry into a luxury brand but when I see his feather dresses, I just want to send Riccardo at Versace right away.

This is the fairest post I’ve seen and I agree with all of it, both the positive and the critique.