superbeautiful
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I wasn't sure if this was the right place to put this, so please move if needed.
I read this article today and it really caught my attention. Especially because I feel that it is an important issue.
I read this article today and it really caught my attention. Especially because I feel that it is an important issue.
New York designers are fighting for a way of life — but the odds are against them.
The cause? Preserving the Garment District around Seventh Avenue.
Mom-and-pop businesses, some of which have occupied the neighborhood for generations, are being elbowed out due to skyrocketing rents, and could very well be replaced by offices, condos, retail chains and restaurants. What stands to fall by the wayside are the sample makers, short-run manufacturers, button stores, fabric shops and pattern makers that have been the unheralded underpinnings of the American fashion industry for decades.
“I am really sad and really worried,” said Nanette Lepore, who makes the bulk of her goods domestically. “There seems to be no regard for the industry’s history, culture and trade. It’s all about the guys with the money wanting to invest and put in chain restaurants like Olive Garden and TGIFs that you can find in Boardman, Ohio, a small town in Connecticut or anywhere else in the country.”
The battle over the Garment District crystallizes issues being played out across American industry and cities, highlighted in this presidential election year. Can companies manufacture domestically and remain competitive against low-wage countries like China and India? Should local, state and national governments encourage firms to produce in the U.S. with tax breaks and other credits? How can the industry attract young people to work in factories rather than offices? And how much gentrification is too much?
The latter issue has been an ongoing debate in Manhattan almost since the city was called New Amsterdam, affecting neighborhoods from Little Italy to Chinatown, Greenwich Village to Times Square. In the end, “old” neighborhoods gave way to, if not necessarily better, certainly different ones and the former denizens found other areas to live or work in — until they, too, were gentrified.
Now it’s the Garment District’s turn. The area’s side streets are zoned for manufacturing, yet demand in the ever-shrinking domestic sector far lags the supply of space. As a result, some landlords have illegally begun renting the spaces for offices and other nonapparel manufacturing use.
While past mayors were outspoken in their defense of the district and its manufacturing history, the businessman-turned-Mayor Michael Bloomberg has been more subdued. Proclaiming support for manufacturing in New York on the one hand, the mayor’s office has been debating the future of the Garment District almost since Bloomberg took office in 2002 — with no resolution in sight. The sense among some designers and tenants in the Garment District is that Bloomberg’s administration, which is in its final stretch, is ambivalent about whether manufacturing remains in the area and would be just as happy if the companies there moved to other neighborhoods, like Long Island City or Brooklyn. Others, though, claim Bloomberg is keen to find a solution.
There is said to be some 1 million square feet in the Garment District being used by apparel manufacturing factories, a sliver of the area’s total 10 million square feet, according to Identity Map Co., which surveys businesses in the district. Depending on whom you ask, preserving anywhere from 250,000 to 500,000 square feet is seen as an acceptable compromise by the fashion industry and the city. City officials declined to comment on specific numbers.
Asked about where things stand in the ongoing debate over the Garment District, the Mayor’s spokesman deferred to the Economic Development Corp. Patrick Murphy, head of fashion and retail growth initiatives at the EDC, said, “We continue to work aggressively on a solution that ensures that New York City remains the fashion capital of the world, while meeting the needs of the garment center, property owners and other industry stakeholders. It is a difficult balancing act, but we are committed to finding a workable solution. We are in active conversations and are optimistic that a consensus will be reached.”
The latest step in the long drawn-out process will come this week. On Monday, several board members from the Fashion Center Business Improvement District will meet with executives from the EDC. The next day, the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s executive director Steven Kolb, and Yeohlee Teng, who has been instrumental in leading the charge to preserve the industry’s foothold in the area, will make the trip to City Hall. The meetings will be the first in several months.