Carol Christian Poell #1

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this is "sudare" made of leather from S/S 03

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sudare

at a glance it looked like a leather chain mail in decorous blazer.


courtesy barneys

Thanks Runner! I didn't know the technique had a name... very very lovely stuff. Didn't Maurizio do a similar sort of blended/woven technology for Linea? I recall there being a fabric of cotton/leather/silk or some variation thereof?
 
^i dunno if i would say that. carol is brilliant in his own right. and his aesthetics are a bit more raw and organic than helmut.
 
thanks Scott, I got it now. when I was writing that, it was "it's" in my screen.
so I was not sure then.
and thanks for the link!
there is a thread for the season. will post those nice pics there later.


you're welcome Chinor1z
I cannot recall the blend of cotton/leather/silk, but yes there are some blended fabrics that come to mind.


apparently he is a man of curiosity who doesn't cut corners.
for example when he was interested in tatami, he was temporarily apprenticed to a tatami shokunin all the way to learn it and find a new way for the old technique finally.
(shokunin is craftsman, artisan, or true expert in any field)
also to a soba shokunin etc.
designers like him and maurizio not only make a new departure from convention but also give a new interpretation to lost arts and crafts.
 
apparently he is a man of curiosity who doesn't cut corners.
for example when he was interested in tatami, he was temporarily apprenticed to a tatami shokunin all the way to learn it and find a new way for the old technique finally.
(shokunin is craftsman, artisan, or true expert in any field)
also to a soba shokunin etc.
designers like him and maurizio not only make a new departure from convention but also give a new interpretation to lost arts and crafts.

this seems like an incredible luxury to be able to do this sort of thing...
to be honest...
if i had the time (and money was not a concern), i would apprentice in so many places doing so many things...just for the pleasure of learning the intimate details of how so many things are done...

the soba for instance...
i think that would be a fascinating experience...
there are so many things on the planet to learn about and experience...
there just isn't enough time to do it all...

:(...^_^
 
yes it can be luxurious, it's independent research. but maybe it's super important as well.
sometimes strength depends on how deeply you get to know various things which are out of your line.
then, conception and solving applied problems,
for which you need to be a master of making clothes (in this case) in the first place.
 
luckyme, so I think it's probably the silver thread sweater cuff bracelet,
judging from the pics of the series I just came across.


.
 

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I would have posted this sketch of his in #891, 892.



carolchristianpoell.mak.at
 

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Has anyone seen the boots with the rubber band and the moccasin sole??? What do you think of them???
 
I didn't like the boots as I said in the thread for the season.
precisely speaking I thought they were not what I liked to wear myself.
but taking an objctive view of the design alone, in the light of the key words of the season, I found it impeccable in its own way.
it didn't err from his path. typically the rubber band would have been made to be the same color as the leather. blah blah.
so if you like it, they can be your boots.
and I thought they would go better with a girl.
but I guess you have to try them on to know the crucial you cannot tell from the look/design of them.
 
he gave a little interview to a japanese magazine for the first time in six something years as far as I know.
it's an interview with desiners about an item of shirt.
from huge may 2008 issue



do you wear a shirt every day yourself?


lucas ossendrijver
very often

raf simons
yes I always wear a shirt, by the day, in white, navy, and black.

carol christian poell
I don't wear any shirt at all.



interesting answer from the man who once was said to be a designer who can make the most beautiful shirt in the world.
though these days he is renowned for his leather jacket and shoes.
btw, he seems to wear margiela with one or two his own pieces.
 
I think the evolution of personal clothing reaches a point where you don't even care about the label anymore. It's almost a 180 degree turn where you keep pushing further and further for that "best" design and that "rare" piece that you ultimately reach that apex and say "what next?"

That would be the point that you possibly start making your own items (being possibly disenchanted with the ridiculous pricings of things these days), or perhaps moving backwards to emphasize comfort over potentially uncomfortable design.

"I don't wear any shirt at all" to me reads in a way to symbolize personal comfort first.

You can see this echoed in Raf's response where you can infer that he doesn't think too hard about what he himself wears every day. Personal style choice has be superseded by his job of designing for others.

As much as I hate to bring him into this, I was watching an episode of Project Runway where Michael Kors responded to a comment about what he wears by saying that when he was younger he thought a lot more about what he would wear... he'd wear the craziest things, the newest stuff, kept using his clothes to outwardly portray who he was... these days he's dressing more for comfort.

Perhaps you reach a point where you can't go "higher" and so return to the roots of comfort.
 
I feel many cases of those kinds I have seen have something to do with neglience, laziness, abandonment and all that.
maybe something that might begin with beer belly.
it should originally be of a different nature from inclination for comfort.
and it's not what you'd see at the end of evolution.
or maybe those are the types to whom a manifestation of their style might not have been so related to choosing what to wear, to begin with. and the time comes for them to return to the roots of what they should have been doing.
or they might have worn it not for its own sake but for something else.

I, for one who in infancy had a convulsive fit when compelled to wear something that disaccorded with a heart, will not have the stage at which they'd announce "graduation".
I wish the only reason for can't-go-further to be death, like a precedent of Miles's life.



I don't know what exactly those designers'responses mean.
but, even if those are the sign of inclination toward comfort, I don't take it as a sign of any decline, as I said.
and yes there can be when they'd move backwards.
the way of our progress is usually spiral. it's rare that it describes a linear vector.
even though it looks as if it was right back where it had started, it's not where it used to be anymore, when you see it vertically: it's the same point raised up. it's different in altitude.
for example an old technology can often be brought back to life to be the most up-to-date one by being combined with a new device that did not exist yet then.
it's like taking a step back, and two steps forward.

according to someone who accompanies him at times, he doesn't seem to dress himself in an obvious way. the style could be similar to say renault 21 turbo or lancia thema 8.32, sort of deceptively anonymous.
I guess he is still a hardcore seeker of individual style, however hidden the claws may be, otherwise he would not wear a silver foretooth all the way.
 
Does anyone know what a size 50 is like in the kangaroo vest? Would it fit a smallish female?
 
I dont know about the fitment on that vest, but generally 50 equals to a mens L or M at least, so I would guess that its big for a small woman.
 
Does anyone know??? If you were going to Europe to shop for CCP and similiar designers would you choose Milan, or Paris to find the largest selection.... I maybe going for a long weekend somewhere in December........
Kind thoughts to all.
 
I would choose Paris. Daad Dantone in Milan has usually had a good selection, but far more limited than L'eclaireur in Paris which has a wider selection including pieces from older seasons. in my book Milan is a nice city, but shopping-wise there are only 2-3 interesting stores where as Paris has much more.
 
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A/w 04
 

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courtesy stefan zeisler
 

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