Carol Christian Poell - Designer

[runner]

if I remember rightly, that coat says "leather 60% / cotton 40%" on the tag ( also there might have been the other way around version, polyurethane/cotton version, etc ). that's because it has a cotton underlayer coated with leather that was reduced to dust:
the base cotton coat, as some kind of interlining, got a treatment of the leather dust jets on a dummy individually after sewn. it's sort of object-leathered.
the texture was like dry suede or coarse velours in a way, but it looked more like something that gathered dust, which could be associated with a long period of rejection and unpopularity. another flocky item from the season was a top that was dusted ( looked thick with dust ), leaving the undusted part in the shape of a big X on the front. it could have implied the body with the arms crossed on the chest.
maybe his personal challenge here was to man's habitual ways of seeing the world.
for example things that are arbitrarily regarded as unlucky can turn lucky things if interpreted differently, the prejudice dispeled, if one is able to see from another aspect.
I think he tried to give those long-forgotten and abandoned potentials half a chance.
hence this title for F/W 02, "protection / good luck".

 

[runner]

thought it might be good for his latest work as of now to be posted in coexistence with the past work in this thread although there is already a thread for carol christian poell 09 ( which has enough pics of these pieces from 09 but doesn't have these images posted in yet ).


images from lift

 

[runner]

only the sleeveless top in the last pic is by label under construction.


.

 

[runner]

....

 

[fenrost]

i thought i should start contributing here. sorry if it's been posted.

some are my pics.

from EM and Prague

 

[fenrost]

posted pics of items are from 09 collection

my pics.. and "geta" from em

 

[softgrey]

hey fenrost...
thanks and welcome to the club...



runner...
i am just in awe of the pants you posted in #19...
i LOVE the way they are constructed...
...

...

LOVE!!!...

 

[BerlinRocks]

saw an AMAZING leather jkt @ Atelier this afternoon - from the FW 2010, it seems !!!!

Damn, wanted it sooo bad ...

But 8,000$ .......

* only 1 piece left, btw ...

And CCP, irl ...... I diiiie with the leather ! I really do need one CCP leather piece !
Everything I saw was pure luxe from him !
* but the price are really high-rocket ! A linen shirt at 1,090$ is still ... Eventhough, it looked nice and so easy-wearing ...

But whatever, once I can get afford a 8,000$ CCP leather piece, I do it ! Loved it ... After, I was depressed going into the other shops ...

* My bf and I loved Atelier by the way. It was our first experience overthere ! Very niiiice ! Though, I am too fat to buy anything from the sale racks ...

 

[runner]

thanks fenrost



softgrey, stamps sheet comes to mind when I see that seam especially done around the pocket.

goo.ne

Berlin, maybe there is not anything produced specifically for F/W 10. what's delivered is still from 09. or something that was exclusively ordered that stores might call F/W 10, using their own discretion.
athough leather jackets are various in style, material, etc, there is one available for about half of that price.

 

[runner]

from S/S 06


available at/courtesy of boisdexu

 

[runner]

what he does is sometimes like surgical virtuosity, which is not wonderful because putting pattern pieces/leather parts together is similar to sewing up skin wounds/flesh parts. he does glued seams and stapled leather, and you see there is even something called dermal glue as well as skin stapler in suturing techniques today.
another common thing is incision. it's ordinary with surgery. but it is applied to his work too. he does it figuratively and sometimes literally.

when an object, as a certain container of pieces of matter, is too closed, that can be a kind of self-alienation.
it gets too fixed, confined and established. its existence will freeze eventually, just like a rigid definition of the meaning of a word can kill all the nuance of the word charged with flexibility and subtlety. so he makes flaws, tears, cracks, and openings on his pieces to keep them alive and interesting. it's not a safe thing to do. it can be a leak through which his piece ends up hastening to decomposition. but it can also be a power intake which brings the piece to the state beyond its individuality / what it otherwise was.
( the incised sole is half for utility of course since the bull sole is very hard and thick )

closure and opening, restriction and release, if it is matter temporarily cohering in a certain way and is to lead to diffusing into eternity, it's like what we recognize as life and death. some of us might slightly see life contrasted by death in his work, which might be one of the peculiar elements that make it feel a bit special. or at least that's how I see it for sure.




unitedarrows
infoseek
lordoftheflies

 

[fenrost]

thanks runner, as always appreciate your writings

 

[zamb]

After a 2+ years hunt
through a series of impossible events, that are so rare they cant be left to chance, I got these in the mail today.
Brand New...............

they fit like a dream!

 

[softgrey]

congrats zam...!...


may you wear them in good health!...

 

[zamb]

congrats zam...!...


may you wear them in good health!...

thanks my friend!
been a long time!
what've you been up to?

 

[luckyme]

zamb, dreams do come true. they are GRAND on you.

 

[fenrost]

another common thing is incision. it's ordinary with surgery. but it is applied to his work too. he does it figuratively and sometimes literally.

thanks runner, you got me thinking on some of his technique he used in his other work, i am not medical students by all means, i did wondered that the scarstitching and or overlock stitching, for instance, can be safe to said there are derived from surgery's suture technique, or other known areas.

 

[runner]

thanks for the pic fenrost
what he officially stated is that he was interested in orthopaedic appliances and artificial body parts.
making the whole of his piece as an aggregate of the designs for the individual body parts might be a general tendency.
( A/W 07 "disjointed" representatively )

tokinowasuremono.com

 

[fenrost]

thank you, runner, as always great insight.

i have been thinking of the selvedge programe in their selfsame collection, it seem to be very under-discussed. as in, that there's more than meets the eye, and more than just knowing what they were.

my pics:

*almost all seams selvedge, pocket laps, sleeves, collars, etc






i agreed that you said it's like a continuous search of answer of unraveling edge - it seems like a departure of his previous attempts at his disposal, but there's this re-emphasizing, that parallels to his practice.

two aspect- those who do not understand what the red lines meant, will only see it as design or styling.

and those who do, will understand the red lines as selvedge, and understand the extremity his selvedge program, both process and production. thus, i find his revelation, and sartorial performance, as encrypted.

- it seems to be conveyed in the details, subtle minimalism yet explicit statement of his madness and bravery which are incongruent to the eyes. not so unto everyone's face, visually/aesthetically.

this minimalism, also seems to be appeared far more extreme in the fe-male pieces, like the selvedge long coat and shirt, - it's like he got rid off more noises - the neck, shoulder, body shapes, etc; maybe he is just plain lazy. but, he seems to have a reason for that - the more simple a garment / the less noise -the more sophistication it creates.

so i see the whole selvedge program, from male to fe-male, pollinating, and cohesive - encrypted but empowered.


*even the tags of his selvedge garments, has the redline

left : unlined selvedge blazer
right : lined classic blazer

 

[fenrost]

and, from a friend, a picture of the fe-male selvedge coat,

my own pic