Catwalk Reports 04/05

[leyla m.]

i need some real good feedback on what everyones seen on the catwalks and what will be strong this winter.
i kinda missed it and need an overview of best shows B)
any help is more than welcome

 

[Lena]

most of the shows are easy to browse if you go 3-4 pages back Leyla.

here is also a link to the fw04.05 trends while the shows were still going on

if you need something specific, please pm me

 

[chanel_girl]

Well Chloe was so beautiful so was Prada and Chanel Lanvin too but Dior and Galliano in my opinion was Stella Mccartney was very nice as well along with YSL and Gucci

 

[leyla m.]

tnx everyone and LENA

im more looking for a wrap of the season.
i checked already on style but im still looking

 

[metal-on-metal]

Well everyone gave their opinions of the "Your top 5!" thread. If you scroll down a couple pages you should find it. The thread was about 4 pages long so there's lots of criticism and trend talk.

 

[softgrey]

does this help-from vogue-uk

THE LATEST TRENDS


WITH the autumn/winter 2004-5 collections drawing to a close in Paris this week, there are already plenty of strong looks to think about for the new season. Here are ten of the top trends that have flown off the catwalk in the last month:

1. PRINT: Summer's obsession with print is bound to last after the sun goes in. And with plenty of florals and bold graphic designs about, it was only a matter of time before they developed into wild animal skin prints.
Seen at Giorgio Armani, Valentino, Jonathan Saunders, Eley Kishimoto, YSL Rive Gauche, Emanuel Ungaro, Christian Dior, Missoni, Pucci, Marni, and Jean Paul Gaultier.

2. AUTUMNAL COLOURS: The greenery that took hold at the summer collections makes way for plenty of rich, wintery colours for the new season, from blood red to bottle green, punctuated with a range of browns and navy.
Seen at: Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Stella McCartney, Boyd and YSL Rive Gauche.

3.TWEED: Make sure you have plenty of plaid in your wardrobe next winter.
Seen at: Anna Sui, Oscar de la Renta, Jean Paul Gaultier, Haider Ackermann, Miu Miu, Versace, Nicole Farhi, Julien Macdonald, Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen and Louis Vuitton.

4. CAPES: A handful of designers try them every season, but this time they might just take off.
Seen at: Helmut Lang, Emanuel Ungaro, Celine, Missoni, Emma Cook and Ralph Rucci Chado.

5. LADYLIKE DRESSING: Knee-length dresses and high-neck blouses gave a prim new silhouette for winter.
Seen at: Marc Jacobs, Prada, Narciso Rodriguez, Clements Ribeiro, Giles Deacon, Andrew Gn and Betty Jackson.

6. RETRO STYLING: Hippy chic was just one of a number of vintage elements seen on the catwalk. Twenties flapper dresses will also remain a wardrobe staple for the new season.
Seen at: John Galliano, Paul Smith, Clements Ribeiro and Kenneth Cole.

7. FUR: Fake or real, like it or not, it was everywhere: from Tom Ford's fur lined catwalk at Gucci to Macdonald's bulging fur wraps, it was this season's biggest talking point.
Seen at: Marni, YSL Rive Gauche, Louis Vuitton, Jean Paul Gaultier, Alberta Ferretti and Pringle.

8. BOY/GIRL: The masculine-feminine divide is closing up, with girls in suits or their boyfriend's slouchy cardis and boys in bouclé.
Seen at: Valentino, Miu Miu, Chanel, Chloe, Dolce & Gabbana, Stella McCartney, YSL Rive Gauche and Y's Yohji Yamamoto.

9. PEACOATS: If the fur that ruled the catwalk this season just isn't your thing, cover up with a peacoat when the temperature drops.
Seen at: , Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood and Stella McCartney.

10. BOWS: The ultimate in girly detailing, bows appeared everywhere from waists, bags, necks and shoulders to hair and shoes.
Seen at: Chloe, Louis Vuitton, Vivienne Westwood, Celine, Fendi, Giles Deacon and Temperley.

MORE TRENDS TO WATCH OUT FOR: Biba dresses, leather jackets (biker and trenches), the mac, shorts and tights, pedal-pushers and leggings. Yes, they are back...

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by leyla m.@Apr 4th, 2004 - 2:31 am
im more looking for a wrap of the season.
i checked already on style but im still looking

in that case, here comes one more wrap (from fwd)

Fall Fashion RoundupBy Godfrey Deeny March 31, 2004 @ 5:25 PM
MARQUEE FASHION NAMES VOTE PARTY LINES FOR FALL FASHION
Think of fashion this fall as a showdown between the Restoration and the Revolutionaries.

New York and Milan heralded the return of Republican chic - ladylike fashions for women who have other things than a career to think about, like china patterns and making good on The Rules.

In Manhattan, Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta and Patrick Robinson at Perry Ellis were only some of the designers whose collections evoked an era when assistants were known as secretaries and housewives dressed for lunch.

But in Paris, meanwhile, designers stormed the battlements, ripping up the pattern books and deconstructing garments in novel fabric treatments and attitudes. Forget stenographers, this was fashion for sexy avant garde gals who not only don't play by the rules, they invent their own and then break those, too. On both sides of the Seine, houses such as Helmut Lang and Comme des Garcons invented new takes on downtown chic that are sure to be influential this fall.

Ironically, the collection many critics regarded as the most exciting out of the Big Four seasons (New York, London, Milan and Paris) was Prada's, which boasted elements of both conservatism and contrariness.

New York designers have been "flattering" Miuccia by mimicking the prim, mid-century looks in her recent collections. But for fall, her selections of coats are some of the most original and cool available in years. Cut snugly with neat shoulders in fringed shearlings with crystal, or in Chinese fabrics with jade, they all looked great. And though severely impractical, they boasted the signature detail for fall - elbows patches with crystal clusters.

Remaking retro is also a key trend, best exemplified at Burberry. Inspired by Virginia Woolf, designer Christopher Bailey dreamed up a Mrs. Dalloway who likes to party in beautiful crinkled and creased duchess satin dresses.

If retro is in, however, vintage seems to be on its way out in favor of a look more accurately described as "lived in." Where vintage is an almost slavish copying of "found" and "sampled" garments from second-hand stores, "lived in" constitutes deliberately aging fabrics, finishes and detailing so clothes look fresh yet imbued with their own history.

The leader of lived-in is Alber Elbaz, who dresses dozens of chic stars, actresses and models, and whose Medal of Honor collection for Lanvin will no doubt be copied by mass brands mightily this fall.

For once, the accessory of the season was not the bag, but the brooch. From those Medals of Honor in metal and diamonds dipped in acid at Lanvin, to techno toys and computer what-nots at Prada to pearl cross brooches for naughty nuns at Chanel, brooches were everywhere, and in a variety of novel forms.

The big brooch hit of the fall, however, will likely be Stella McCartney's. Her daddy might be a multi-millionaire rock star, but Stella is a born populist. We predict her great gold stag's-head brooches will grace thousands of lapels.

Lagerfeld packed his signature collection for fall with lots of hardware - call it his post Chrome Hearts thinking. In a powerful show, he produced one of the iconic looks of the European season and one we are going to see inside nightclubs all season long. As worn by the ineffably beautiful model Erin Wesson, the consummate version of the look was composed of a pair of suede thigh boots under a pleated chiffon dress and sleek leather bomber jacket with fur trim. Complete with some snappy silver accessories - Karl's post Chrome Hearts thinking - it made for a spunky, sassy look that would cause any man's pulse to race.

Mel Gibson, that hyper-conservative Catholic whose film Passion is such a huge hit, surely would have liked the news at Louis Vuitton. Clearly influenced by Vivienne Westwood, designer Marc Jacobs showed enough plaid to cover the cast and crew for the wrap party of Braveheart. And more pertinently, at Vuitton Jacobs adopted the same silhouette as he showed in his signature collection back in New York '50s Connecticut style. Ultimately, Mel, consumers will end up buying Vuitton's monogrammed mink scarves, delightful pumps with tufts of fabric and dancing shoes for Highland lassies.

For true lovers of insurrectionist style, the place to go is Comme des Garcons, where we cannot see Gibson liking the inspiration for designer Rei Kawakubo. In her own words: "Witches and sorcerers."

Everyone has been talking about the return to color, but the Comme show, almost exclusively black, was about genuinely new fashion. Jackets twisted and turned 90 degrees around so sleeves sprouted from the spine and shoulders met the neck.

Sampling is a huge influence in music and a big trend for fall, especially at Comme where different garments - like a kimono and a cape - meld together to make pieces of apparel that defy easy classification.

Sampling novel fabrics will also be a big theme post-vacation. Few took as many risks as Helmut Lang, who ingeniously mined his Austro-Hungarian roots in a neat, new vision - lace crept down below skirt hems and flowered over the tops of boots; horsehair wrapped evening columns and shoes.

But please don't think this is an asexual era we are entering, even if the master of sexually charged fashion, Tom Ford, took his final bows at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent.

His finale at Gucci was a greatest hits affair, featuring snazzy black satin suits, nipped at the waist with multiple darts at the shoulder, snug pencil skirts, classic velvet jackets, ice blue fox stoles over peak-shouldered jackets, crocodile clutches and open-backed mules. Sexy? Of course.

But fall will herald a new emperor of high-octane sexy style, Roberto Cavalli. His sophisticated collection of colorful fur boleros and thigh- revealing chiffon dresses was all about making women look beautiful for their latest target - Metrosexual men.

Even more prosaic designers got in on the act. Australia's queen of boudoir chic, Colette Dinnigan put enough nipples on display in her Carrousel du Louvre show to wreak havoc on a half century's worth of Super Bowl halftime galas. Colette's canailles are attention-seeking, sex-obsessed lassies who like lace and semi-sheer fabrics.

For foot fetishists, on the other (er) hand, the standout collection was Brain Atwood's in Milan. Presented quietly in a private apartment, Atwood showed why he won the CFDA young accessory designer award last year. His cloth flowers and crystal-encrusted sling-backs, high heels and boots best summed up designer's vision of women for fall - enigmatic, romantic intellects with high-charged libidos.

 

[leyla m.]

lovely

thanks softgrey and lena

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by leyla m.@Apr 4th, 2004 - 12:22 pm
lovely

thanks softgrey and lena

glad to be of assistance...