Celine Cruise 2026 Paris | Page 6 | the Fashion Spot
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Celine Cruise 2026 Paris

That's a good bag, but most of the bags start from a good idea, but the shape, proportions, and execution leave much to be desired, they lack that luxury quality and detail

Imagine having the audacity to carry a powerbank along with your phone... maybe it's just me, but it already looks like it's made a hole in the leather, near the CC :rofl:


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Its 70% Phoebe Philo Celine + 30% Hedi Slimane, in a sea of Phoebe Philo clones lol

Aka, it actually feels a bit deplaced to bring that sort of proposition at this time and space.

I would really like to know what really went down there between Hedi and the Arnauds / Severine Merle. I get the feeling they were pretty fine with how the brand developed under Hedi, the numbers were supporting that. Perhaps one day we will find out from Hedi when he’s allowed to speak about it.

It’s clear that Michael Rider did exactly what was asked of him, remixing Céline with Celine, the fashion and majority of shoes are ugly as hell but the customer won’t care. They will have a lot of polite and sellable 'merch' that doesn’t require the distinct stamp of Hedi Slimane or Phoebe Philo’s Céline. The Triomphe is firmly established and the brand perception and recognizability is higher than ever, despite being a house that for the longest time (much like Loewe) was lacking a clear fashion identity.
 
If I may add one thing - While being 'at the service of the brand' is perhaps a good asset in the sale of branded product, the flip side is that it takes away from the value a strong fashion statement has enjoyed as the foundation to sell bags, shoes and other accessories. This is why creative directors today are for the most part remixers, such as Vaccarello or Rider.
 
I have been a Celine menswear customer since 2019, but I’m not interested in any of what Rider is offering here. The clothes are dull, witless, and totally lacking on the storytelling front. With vintage RL being so hot right now, I was fantasizing that Rider’s first Celine collection might mix a bit of that RL vibe with Hedi’s bourgeois collections, especially S/S and A/W 2020, to give us a Saint Germain by way of Santa Fe and Nantucket charmed life fantasy. Instead we got a bunch of sloppy fast fashion does Philo outfits. 🙄 As an aside, were those harem pants tucked into booties? 😑

Hedi gave us seven years of great collections with a crazy amount of variation: Parisian bourgeoisie, New Romantic, TikTok madness, sporty, Williamsburg circa 2005, glam rock, skinny boys at The Eagle, English boarding school, and so on. Even with all that variation, the individual pieces from each new collection almost always worked very well with the pieces from the prior collections (and Hedi’s YSL). The clothes were phenomenally wearable and classic while still being highly covetable (if you had the body for them of course). It doesn’t look to me like Rider is capable of achieving that kind of alchemy,
 


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its just crazy how every look is something from where he worked before but a corporate version of it. and if his goal like he mentioned was to keep it real those man leggings are far from reality same as pirate ( showing every knuckle of your feet through the tin leather so sexy ) boots with 80´s wide pants tucked in boots ......only michael rider thinks this an interesting real proposal for men in 2025

the more i see it the clearer it gets that its just vile and cheap even holding it at the celine office did not help it.....it give an corporate RL show with budget tight on spending vibe.

i won't do mental gymnastics anymore for these new appointments if its crap it's crap and not interested in snake oil sellers.

JWA at dior i did my best to sell it to myself and give it a chance but i have no stakes in LVMH so next time if its not WOW it's crap period!!!

i feel we see more of this level of snake oil salesman & woman creative directors in september at chanel gucci jil sander dior bottega givenchy Loewe......etc
 
^^^ The stylist is the MVP here.

It’s not so much chaotic as it’s forced eccentricity, doing the most with a bunch of clothes pollution that’s just copy/paste from every other brand. First impression: Both Michael Kors’ and Phoebe’s Celine, and Longchamp already mentioned; Ralph Lauren’s all-American tuxedo sequins, of course; Hedi’s LA rich kids’ casual luxe; Delpozo’s empire-waist and princess train gowns; jewelry from Daniel’s Schiaparelli; ugly muttonchops-shaped jeans from Pieter’s Alaia; even Kris Van Assche’s multi-pleated pant. And if this were a fashion story featuring all these brands, with a cast of bored, gormless American heiresses partying with their twink BFs and gay BFFs in The Hamptons, then it would all be good. But as a refresh for a major player brand, there’s nothing fresh, nothing memorable, nothing exciting. It’s all been redone so much better. And I say all this as both a compliment— because again, strong styling saved this, and as a scathing impression of mediocre talent on full display. Without the styling and the Celien branding, it all may as well be by our beloved Sabato; Clothes someone will wear a few times at the most, then ends up on consignment.

(God— those leather pant on the guys are so pathetically unconvincing— on anyone. All I can think about is how well tailored, and how gorgeous the material of Haider’s Tom Ford leather pant is.)
 
^ I'd add the accessories, because almost every single bag here has either technical or design issues, like uneven stitches, a wrinkled curved zipper (which is a central detail of the bag!), very narrow openings, or the clasp that pulls on the leather. Almost as if the team never had to use a bag in their lives.
 
Ok, I feel like Tyra in that "I'm rooting for you" meme. I do feel the direction but it's all over the place. Styling is very heavy handed. The clothes and everything. The ugly shoes. I can't. The bags look better than expected. I don't know, I feel like it could have been a much better collection with lots of editing. But maybe because of the heavy styling it looks better than it actually is.
 
odd that so many people were virtually pillorying ancora guy not so long ago, but this fella serves up the same pabulum and gets a free pass…all ‘transitory’ collections without a vision to sell, not even a novelty in sight.
 
odd that so many people were virtually pillorying ancora guy not so long ago, but this fella serves up the same pabulum and gets a free pass…all ‘transitory’ collections without a vision to sell, not even a novelty in sight.

As far as I am concerned, ie a regular Celine Homme customer, it's a big NO, I won't buy, I am not interested, but I can understand that for womenswear it might be "friendlier" to wear than Hedi's womenswear, and it plays on a Phoebe nostalgia that might appeal to women customers more.

But 1 ou 2 more collections like that and he gets the Ancora treatment from my side.
 
God I think I like this. Idk why. It's pedantic intelectual but not sterile. The styling gives a warm feeling to it.

Look 55 is so cool.
 
odd that so many people were virtually pillorying ancora guy not so long ago, but this fella serves up the same pabulum and gets a free pass…all ‘transitory’ collections without a vision to sell, not even a novelty in sight.
This won’t get the Ancora treatment. The integrity of Celine is not compromised with Rider.
The problem is not being commercial. Ancora were just clothes that didn’t integrate in a aesthetic schema. Whether you like Celine by Rider, you know that it’s bourgeois. And Celine is bourgeois…

Ancora came with a plethora of concept from stores, to music to icons but nobody knew what his Gucci was about.
 
^^^ The stylist is the MVP here.

It’s not so much chaotic as it’s forced eccentricity, doing the most with a bunch of clothes pollution that’s just copy/paste from every other brand. First impression: Both Michael Kors’ and Phoebe’s Celine, and Longchamp already mentioned; Ralph Lauren’s all-American tuxedo sequins, of course; Hedi’s LA rich kids’ casual luxe; Delpozo’s empire-waist and princess train gowns; jewelry from Daniel’s Schiaparelli; ugly muttonchops-shaped jeans from Pieter’s Alaia; even Kris Van Assche’s multi-pleated pant. And if this were a fashion story featuring all these brands, with a cast of bored, gormless American heiresses partying with their twink BFs and gay BFFs in The Hamptons, then it would all be good. But as a refresh for a major player brand, there’s nothing fresh, nothing memorable, nothing exciting. It’s all been redone so much better. And I say all this as both a compliment— because again, strong styling saved this, and as a scathing impression of mediocre talent on full display. Without the styling and the Celine branding, it all may as well be by our beloved Sabato; Clothes someone will wear a few times at the most, then ends up on consignment.

(God— those leather pant on the guys are so pathetically unconvincing— on anyone. All I can think about is how well tailored, and how gorgeous the material of Haider’s Tom Ford leather pant is.)
yes1000% the stylist doing the row, tods, tory ,proenza (instagram.com/brian__molloy) he should be a designer then and not copy past these same modern phoebe esc rifs meets everything else that has been remotely genuine and interesting for all his clients.

Brain molloy over styling and over layering is also to blame as he wants to manipulite with the clothes to have some sculptural silhouette everytime with no purpose than ego or forcefully create a styling signature.

over 4 years a slice of Brain Molloy styling .... so who is the designer !!!!!?? i would ask his clients or him ? lol

brain molly meaningless cronicals .jpg
 
the difference why phoebe & tom ford knows how to use ideas already done in past and make it their own, while we have all these sweet Temu nr2´s in the creative director seats and people online defending it like we don't know the recent fashion history of excellence.

if hedi did that dress people would be pissed rightfully so why also celine printed on the dress ribbons on top of it so tacky as hell ....
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tell me you miss your old boss without telling me you miss your old boss PART 1 (Nicolas)

i was there balenciaga (but my stylist wanted to redo his hermes art of silk styling again form 3 years ago also do it on a black model so the colors are the main focus )
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i saw in the archive at balenciaga
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i wish i was there post balenciaga
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