Celine Cruise 2026 Paris

[Lola701]

The audacity indeed…
Nothing feels more pathetic than critics from people who used to be invited to parties, looking from afar.

I’m old enough to remember his « remarkable » work for Jil Sander.
And I guess, because he is so original, we will pretend that his Trussardi wasn’t heavily derivative of Balmain by Decarnin and Burberry by Bailey.

 

[blackcherrified]

Imagine having the audacity to carry a powerbank along with your phone... maybe it's just me, but it already looks like it's made a hole in the leather, near the CC


View attachment 1393292
vogue

This bag looks like a badly “copied/inspired” Longchamp Le Pliage Cuir to me on the streets of Guangzhou… not a good sign

And if I want any piece from this collection… why don’t I just walk into a Ralph Lauren outlet I am sure things will be cheaper over there but yet I get the same style? I am just wondering can they still charge Hedi-Celine prices for these and yet not have the sales gone down…

That new Luggage tote with the curve zip in front looks like a joke to me

 

[tricotineacetat]

I remember Milan’s Jil Sander as well and as a 'Heidemarie-ultra' you should know I did not take kindly to it (though honestly speaking, the Meiers and I’m afraid also the new Italian guy will be worse) BUT it’s refreshing to hear somebody in the industry openly criticizing where we otherwise have the majority of people as paid lickspittles (like this style-not-com guy).

I don’t agree to her personal opinions but I can respect Cathy Horyn to at least have hers'. We all know a bad review will have consequences in today’s fashion industry…

 

[Lola701]

I remember Milan’s Jil Sander as well and as a 'Heidemarie-ultra' you should know I did not take kindly to it (though honestly speaking, the Meiers and I’m afraid also the new Italian guy will be worse) BUT it’s refreshing to hear somebody in the industry openly criticizing where we otherwise have the majority of people as paid lickspittles (like this style-not-com guy).

I don’t agree to her personal opinions but I can respect Cathy Horyn to at least have hers'. We all know a bad review will have consequences in today’s fashion industry…

I think it’s only refreshing because it’s a negative criticism. People only find this kind of criticism good when it aligns with their views right?
Because he is a designer. Because he was in this position, la bienséance should have made him stay quiet this time.
He was the 3rd wheel of the carriage behind Tom Ford and Sarah Andelman.

One could expect that someone who was in that position and who failed precisely because he didn’t have much of a vision (apart from beautiful Avedon campaigns) would have explained his POV with more esprit.

I can take this kind of criticism from someone like Ralph Rucci. He is someone who is independent, who has made a name for himself thanks to his creativity and who understand a certain kind of world or at least a culture.

And it doesn’t mean that I don’t agree with him on the CK point for example.

I could have accepted that kind of post from someone else but surely NOT HIM. He can be glad nobody is reminding him what he did to Jil Sander.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I think it’s only refreshing because it’s a negative criticism. People only find this kind of criticism good when it aligns with their views right?
Because he is a designer. Because he was in this position, la bienséance should have made him stay quiet this time.
He was the 3rd wheel of the carriage behind Tom Ford and Sarah Andelman.

One could expect that someone who was in that position and who failed precisely because he didn’t have much of a vision (apart from beautiful Avedon campaigns) would have explained his POV with more esprit.

I can take this kind of criticism from someone like Ralph Rucci. He is someone who is independent, who has made a name for himself thanks to his creativity and who understand a certain kind of world or at least a culture.

And it doesn’t mean that I don’t agree with him on the CK point for example.

I could have accepted that kind of post from someone else but surely NOT HIM. He can be glad nobody is reminding him what he did to Jil Sander.

I find it a bit amusing when people bring up that degree of judgement over a work that is more than 20 years old, while today, barely any designer who’s hired to take a brand with a precise POV is doing so with faithfulness to it’s original customer or using house codes as anything but ingredients to remix at their convenience.

I wasn’t a fan of Milan’s work either but a large part of why it was faced with such harsh criticism was not because the clothes were bad, but because they were not Jil Sander AND because he followed right after Jil herself.

I would argue there was zero vision to what the new designer coming from Bally put out, ugly to the max and way worse than Milan’s Jil Sander - While the Meiers basically did a lengthy love letter to Phoebe Philo and not Jil Sander. Like I said, I feel more insulted by those and they were never met with nowhere near as harah criticism.

 

[youthinasia]

Does anyone know the opening runway song?

 

[Lola701]

I find it a bit amusing when people bring up that degree of judgement over a work that is more than 20 years old, while today, barely any designer who’s hired to take a brand with a precise POV is doing so with faithfulness to it’s original customer or using house codes as anything but ingredients to remix at their convenience.

I wasn’t a fan of Milan’s work either but a large part of why it was faced with such harsh criticism was not because the clothes were bad, but because they were not Jil Sander AND because he followed right after Jil herself.

I would argue there was zero vision to what the new designer coming from Bally put out, ugly to the max and way worse than Milan’s Jil Sander - While the Meiers basically did a lengthy love letter to Phoebe Philo and not Jil Sander. Like I said, I feel more insulted by those and they were never met with nowhere near as harah criticism.

And you point out exactly in a twisted way my issue with his criticism.
I think the word vision is starting to become a little bit like « icon » in fashion.
Because I feel like there’s this blurred line between vision and ego.

As his figure cannot be dismissed from Celine, for me, Hedi greatest move was his second collection for Celine. For me, he proved that his vision wasn’t consumed by his ego and that he could totally work with the ethos of the brand.

I would let Rider have the benefit of the doubt. Let’s say that his vision is Celine and not Rider. Michele is showing at Valentino that ego can hurt a brand.

Milan at Jil Sander wasn’t believable for Jil Sander. Maybe terribly inspired by Tom Ford at Gucci, he believed that all houses are at the same level. But no.

Me personally, I think about the ethos of the brand. Like you I was not a fan of the Meier or the Bally guy. But essentially, it was for two different reasons: one’s clothes were ugly and the others were surely too consumed by their ego to think about the ethos of the brand.

Jil Sander for me was clothes for active people. They just happened to be minimal. So when the couple is making contemplative fashion to walk in a monastère, for me it’s not Jil Sander anymore.

I hated when Hedi did the groupie at Celine. Because essentially, Celine is French bourgeois RTW. But in his body of work, nobody can blame him to have 2/3 more personal collections when he has preserved the ethos of the brand at last.

That’s why I give some grace to what Rider is doing. Maybe he will be one who works at the service of the brand. I hated RAF’s Dior because for me, he didn’t understood Dior. The same thing with MGC. But he made the best bar suit ever…So much that I bought it.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

The only thing I remember of Milan is the amount of "classy" nudes and feet/bulge/nipples pics he used to post...

Some of these people just need to be bitter in silence.

 

[oioioi]

Does anyone know the opening runway song?

Jack J - My world

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[THD96]

The audacity of this man, when he sent out Spring 2003 under the name of Jil Sander. Jil herself had to come back a year later and cleaned up the mess so her brand won't sink down any further. Have several seats.

He should just keep focusing on photograph hot men because his shade is as flop as his Jil Sander.

 

[youthinasia]

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Thats the final song. I’m looking for the one that opened the show.

Thanks though!

 

[oioioi]

Thats the final song. I’m looking for the one that opened the show.

Thanks though!

Oh you're right my bad!! I'm not sure about the opening intro, only the 2nd song Time to Say Goodnight by DeLux that came a bit after..

 

[PDFSD]

^ The audacity coming from him...

but no lies detected!!!!!! even if we don't like the delivery service provider :-)

 

[disco54]

The womenswear is indeed absolutely atrocious. Those shapeless floor length gowns are hideous.
The daywear is just Phoebe's rejects...

I looked through the collection in detail, I think with time this brand will morph into another Phoebe Philoe Celine clone , the sort of Slimane touches were just transitional but the fact they brought the old Celine bags tells you where this is going. While there were a few nice pieces overall, these womenswear was quite sloppy. The first look is something you can see on old women even now , a trench like coat and denim jeggings. The menswear is far superior.

 

[rowjellies]

I think it's quite sad when creative directors reissue older hits, especially designs that are very specific to a certain decade

reminds of Chemena Kamali reissuing the Paraty and Kerala bag

your job as a creative director is to create newness

it hasn't even been 20 years since Phantom Luggage bag came out - I think it will come back but in my opinion it's still too early

 

[Lorenzogi]

Very basic and démodé - ideal fpr basic C list influencers walking on trottoirs with some artisanal coffee in their hands.

 

[Xone]

but no lies detected!!!!!! even if we don't like the delivery service provider :-)

I think anyone is allowed to share their opinion, at least he is not behind a blue or green square.

 

[blackcherrified]

A Hedi Slimane-Celine client just messaged me yesterday night to tell me how ugly she thinks this New-Old Celine is… not a good sign

Are we going to see Celine fall off the billion-euro-brand status? Or will the Triomphe logo be that powerful to keep the maison up there?

Imho Celine might just go down the road of Saint Laurent (as a brand that HS touched), the new CD will try a couple of seasons (remember the weird 2017 collections at the start of Anthony Vaccarello’s reign) of infusing their own style, only for them to slowly go back to doing HS, then try to do their own style again… while trying to sell the logo on every accessory they can until eventually the sales fall to a level where nobody knows what else they can do (the “crisis” at Saint Laurent now)

 

[style_expert]

As much as I’ve already expressed my strong dislike for this collection, I can see where it’s going from a commercial point of view—and unfortunately, I think it’ll work, at least for a while.

Celine has already launched a couple of new handbags (not Rider’s designs—if you can even call his work “designs”) in the €1,500–€2,000 price range, and they’re offering more and more models, all prominently featuring the logo or monogram. From what you can distill from this collection, it looks like it’s going to be a wide range of products at different price points—even more than during the last HS era. It seems aimed at broader mass appeal, and even less niche. Kind of like Polo on steroid pricing. 😆

So in that sense, yes—they’re going full commercial, squeezing out the brand’s 'heritage' and 'Maison' quality—the groundwork mostly laid by Hedi—until his vision is completely diluted or exhausted.
It’s way too early to tell, but what exactly is Rider’s vision? You can’t rely on leftovers you found in the kitchen cupboard forever.

 

[Lola701]

A Hedi Slimane-Celine client just messaged me yesterday night to tell me how ugly she thinks this New-Old Celine is… not a good sign

Are we going to see Celine fall off the billion-euro-brand status? Or will the Triomphe logo be that powerful to keep the maison up there?

Imho Celine might just go down the road of Saint Laurent (as a brand that HS touched), the new CD will try a couple of seasons (remember the weird 2017 collections at the start of Anthony Vaccarello’s reign) of infusing their own style, only for them to slowly go back to doing HS, then try to do their own style again… while trying to sell the logo on every accessory they can until eventually the sales fall to a level where nobody knows what else they can do (the “crisis” at Saint Laurent now)

A great part of Celine being able to achieve the 1 billion milestone was also largely part to selling Merch. Hoodies and tshirts with « CELINE » plastered on them.
I think history has showed that all the brands Hedi worked at survived post him.

Hedi fans are a bit playing the ridiculous games some Philophiles played when Phoebe left.

This is not Balenciaga when Alexander Wang replaced NG.

When a brand is that big, the most important thing is to have something coherent and to create around noise to keep the buzz and have the industry interested and taking care of the clients. And tbh, I think the people who are complaining about Rider are mostly men…Because I don’t think a Hedi male customer could be ever satisfied. Eventually, Celine will have to rebuild a menswear customer base.
Rider is not a bad menswear designer so I don’t think there’s a problem of legitimacy here compared to Saint Laurent for example.

And also I think that at Saint Laurent, Vaccarello kinda limit himself by only being so focused on the runway shows, campaigns and stuff. His message at Saint Laurent is already less coherent than what Rider is doing at Celine.