Went to the pre-order trunk show today.
The bad and the ugly: wide lapels, giant shoulder pads, uber long coats, and very complicated clothes that come in multiple pieces. It felt overly engineered.
The good and the cute: the silk shirts come in very thick and luxurious silk twill. This is a huge improvement. Make them less complicated and not oversized for the next season please? The trousers are chic. The jazz shoes are refreshing. It's a combination of cute, wearable Parisian chic pieces combined with heavy handed menswear material coats and jackets.
The SS2026 runway show looks less oversized, so perhaps this was a transitional season?