Celine *Ivana Omazic -updated

[Lena]

Originally posted by Orochian@Apr 26th, 2004 - 7:56 pm
Italian minimalism was weird?

no, i think the post reffers to his collections for Burberry being weird

plus Burberry is no Celine...
i certainly find him bland

 

[Orochian]

Well now it's official:

Vogue article

CELINE'S NEW MAN

ROBERTO MENICHETTI will replace Michael Kors as artistic director of Celine, the French fashion house confirmed this afternoon. Born in Buffalo, New York, the 37-year-old Italian designer started his career as Claude Montana's protégé in the Eighties before heading up the design team at Jil Sander. He made fashion history when he was hired by Rose Marie Bravo at Burberry in 1998, and managed to put its world-famous plaid back on fashion pages. But while so many other labels continue to go in for reinvention, Menichetti intends rather to pick up where Kors' left off after his six-year run at Celine. "Although fashion is in a period of great transition, LVMH and its brands remain one of the most important forces in the industry," he said. "I am very pleased to be joining the women's brand Celine as I have always been fascinated with the allure and sensuality of Parisian women. I look forward to the challenge that the continued evolution and potential of Celine represent." Preparing to celebrate its 60th birthday next year, the house, which now has an international network of 100 boutiques, is enjoying a sales high, having realised a double-digits growth in 2003 thanks to Kors, whose contract expired in March. While at Celine, Menichetti is expected to continue working on his own womenswear, menswear and accessories label, Menichetti, which he launched onto the New York fashion scene last February. (April 26 2004, PM)

And I don't find his work bland; I find it restrained and tasteful.

 

[Lena]

Menichetti not at Celine anymore
not that he did a brilliant job...
anyway here today's news from wwd

It looks like the love affair didn't last.

Celine is said to be parting ways with artistic director Roberto Menichetti after just two seasons. According to sources, New York designer Peter Som is among those being courted by the label's parent, LVMH Moet Hennessy, to take over the design reins. Som, reached by telephone on Tuesday, declined comment.

Menichetti succeeded Michael Kors at Celine in April 2004, and drew his inspirations from the allure of Parisian women. His two collections for the French house, however, were poorly received by critics.

Menichetti is based in Gubbio, Italy, where his family owns an apparel factory. The designer, born in Buffalo, N.Y., has a namesake line that he presents in New York. Before Celine, he had been creative director of Burberry for three years, and had worked at Jil Sander in Hamburg, Germany.

 

[Hanne]

Peter Som for Celine..probably a better match...I wonder how Peter Som for Celine will deviate from Peter Som's own line...

 

[brian]

i feel bad for roberto

i liked what he was doing!

 

[baklanyc]

Peter Som for Celine..probably a better match...I wonder how Peter Som for Celine will deviate from Peter Som's own line...

I'll try and see if I can get any confirmation or denial outta Peter...

 

[Diorling]

Thank god.

I hated Menichetti, it was just horrible. That first collection was soo bad, I cant believe LVMH approved him.

 

[Lena]

i think he was ok, just not as spectacular as some would like him to be..

 

[brian]

That first collection was soo bad, I cant believe LVMH approved him.

on the runway, it was strange. in the boutique, it was gorgeous.

reality always cancels out fantasy, imo. because at the end of the day, clothes are made to be worn and enjoyed.

 

[kimair]

from today's nytimes...

THE writing was on the runway, so to speak.

In March, when Roberto Menichetti presented his second collection for Celine, a challenging assemblage of purple fur coats and green charmeuse tulip skirts, he did not follow the last model onto the runway for the customary designer's bow. In fact, he did not come out at all, almost as if he agreed with the one-word assessment of one socialite in the audience: ugly.

After protracted discussions between the designer and executives at Celine's parent company, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, they have agreed to part ways. Mr. Menichetti's fall 2005 collection for the house was his last.

Paul Wilmot, a spokesman for Mr. Menichetti, said the breakup was by mutual consent. "It was a matter of timing," Mr. Wilmot said. "He wanted to spend more time working on his own collection."

Mr. Menichetti, a protégé of Jil Sander and Claude Montana, was for three years the creative director of Burberry, where he revived the flagging label and introduced its more experimental Prorsum line. He also worked for Cerruti for a season before starting his own collection, Menichetti, last year. When Michael Kors resigned from his post at Celine in 2003, Mr. Menichetti was hired to bring more edge to that brand as well.

Apart from the unflattering editorial response to said edge, an issue between Mr. Menichetti and his corporate bosses was the amount of time he was able to dedicate to Celine in Paris while continuing with his own collection in Milan.

 

[helena]

i think he was ok, just not as spectacular as some would like him to be..

I liked what he did.....

 

[Diorling]

on the runway, it was strange. in the boutique, it was gorgeous.

A person in the audience or seeing it on Style.com wouldn't get that impression. I get the impression that the clothes are technicolor nightmares. I give credit where it's due, I did like his variation on the Boogie bag, although the bag was already great to begin with.

BTW I dont think Ive ever seen an advert for Celine.

 

[evexa]

I don't know Peter Som, but OMG, if roland mouret designs for celine I will die and go to heaven TWICE.

 

[evexa]

Well I'm very disapointed in this

I actually think Mr Kors wasn't great, but this is a definite step down, his collections for Burberry were just weird, Italian minimalism (think how improved Burberry has become with Christopher Bailey at the helm) and I can't see it working for Celine

As for his own collection - whats the point? J Crew or Club Monaco have more directional product

I don't know why they didn't give a younger designer a chance to do a witty, chic take on Celine, someone like Proenza Scholoer, Sophia Kokosolaki or Luella Bartley (especially after seeing her Fall 04/05 collection) could have really given that house some life whilst keeping the essence of a chic preppy French house

I agree about the lesser known designer being preferable, although not proenza.

 

[Lena]

i think Som is fine for this house, really not Sophia at Celine..

 

[evexa]

A person in the audience or seeing it on Style.com wouldn't get that impression. I get the impression that the clothes are technicolor nightmares. I give credit where it's due, I did like his variation on the Boogie bag, although the bag was already great to begin with.

BTW I dont think Ive ever seen an advert for Celine.

they are in vogue occassionally but they are never gaudy or obvious.

Have to give props to my friend at celine - they are awesome.

 

[Lena]

no mention to Som at wwd of today.. seems that they also wanted Raf at Celine.. now ..could that be a strange choice for celine or not? seems that they are decided to give the house of celine a real strong tilt

Confirming another spin of fashion's revolving door, Celine president and chief executive Jean Marc Loubier said Thursday the house hopes to name a successor to designer Roberto Menichetti sometime next month.

As reported in WWD Wednesday, Peter Som is believed to be among the candidates being courted by Celine, a division of luxury giant LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton.

Loubier declined to comment on which candidates are up for the job, saying it could jeopardize negotiations. However, it is believed the search includes a few marquee names. Indeed, one of the key runners-up in the initial search last year to replace longtime Celine artistic director Michael Kors was Raf Simons, who on Thursday signed with rival Prada Group to become creative director at Jil Sander.

Sources said LVMH renewed its overtures toward Simons about two months ago, but was rebuffed as he pursued talks with Prada.

Loubier would only say Celine's next designer is expected to be in place to show a spring-summer 2006 collection in October that "will be consistent with what we do. We always value creativity, but applied to real products done with charm."

Celine's cruise collection, to be unveiled to press and buyers in the coming days, was "launched" by Menichetti, but executed by the in-house design team, Loubier said.

Menichetti's departure ends a lackluster one-year collaboration. In recent weeks, the designer and Celine failed to reach an agreement to continue their partnership, with Menichetti eager to devote more time to his signature collection, which he designs from his home base of Gubbio, Italy, about an eight-hour commute to Paris.

"We end our relationship on very good terms, because the issue on my part was that I couldn't dedicate enough time to Celine," Menichetti told WWD. "Not only do I design my brand, but I'm also its majority shareholder, so I need to be extremely dedicated. I wish Celine well, but right now I must prioritize my brand."

He hinted at new projects for his brand, like the possibility of opening directly operated stores or rounding out the lineup.

Loubier characterized the split as mutual and without rancor, while acknowledging poor reviews of Menichetti's two collections for the house. Before Celine, Menichetti had been creative director of Burberry for three years, and had worked at Jil Sander in Hamburg, Germany.

from wwd

 

[LibertyRose]

The first collection was horrible, but the second was a major improvement. You cannot discount the designer without seeing these:

Some of the pieces are Prada-esque, but the lines are softer. Wearable luxury. This is a identity that is suitable for Celine. Give him sometime and he might be good enough to fill Kors' shoes. I think Kors has done some amazing work, but his looks could be too overstyled at times. Menichetti in comparison seems fresh. I am sad to see him go.

As for his replacement, I can think of a couple designers who were at one point all rumored to head Givenchy: Sophia Kokosalaki (but her own line is just taking off, having moved to Paris two seasons ago), Derek Lam (he is poised to become the Next Big Thing at NY after Proenza Schouler), and Patrick Robinson (but he's just signed with Paco Rabanne).

Peter Som? You are kidding. He is not as good as Derek Lam or Jeffery Chow or even Behnaz Sarapfour. Also say no to Giles Deacons.

 

[Lena]

seems that Peter Som is now out of question..
check the wwd update

It looks like LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton might have a woman in mind to become the next designer of Celine. According to sources, the French house has recently been in touch with a bevy of designing women, including Azzaro's Vanessa Seward, former Gucci girl Alessandra Facchinetti, Veronique Branquinho and Tara Subkoff of Imitation of Christ. Last month, the house parted ways with Roberto Menichetti and said it hoped to name a successor shortly. On Monday, a Celine spokesman declined to comment on its list of potential candidates but acknowledged, "There are plenty of rumors."

know nothing about Vanessa Seward.. but please no Facchinetti or
Tara Subkoff ..could Veronique Branquinho fit in? she seems like their best choice out of this list

 

[kit]

I think that CELINE is rapidly becoming a ' Cinderella ' house for LVMH , a la Christian Lacroix .

It's a sophisticated house with far more going for it than all the super naffness of , it SO pains me to say , Christian Dior , under the drug fuelled machinations of John Galliano .

I actually think that Giles Deacon WOULD be good for the house , he's a sophisticated designer with years of solid graft to hone his style . Alexandra Fachinetti , also , has a lot going for her , but perhaps she's wary of these huge talent-consuming conglomerates , after her experience with GUCCI .
Whether Arnault et al would be willing to take a chance on GILES is anybody's guess , but with GIVENCHY starting over with a new and relatively untried designer , God knows what the balance sheets for these secondary houses will be like at the end of the financial year .
Perhaps now is the time to start recycling Tom Ford , God love us !!!!!!