Celine Menswear F/W 2022.23 Paris

[Frederic01]

CELINE

 

[Frederic01]

CELINE

 

[Frederic01]

CELINE

 

[toffie]

Thank you for posting the pictures.

I believe a thread had already been created?

 

[Phuel]

Thanks Frederic.

I wouldn’t dress nor am attracted to this aesthetic. But Hedi time and time again with his Celine men’s, impresses with such a distinct and unwavering direction that’s always true to the standards of high fashion. He’s so precise with how he envisions menswear, that even the most tacky/gaudy/tasteless sensibilities are produced and presented so exquisitely, so refined and so expensively. Hints of The Thin White Duke permeates this collection, and thankfully not a sign of costume, nostalgia nor retro. And nothing looks cheap with his men’s.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

The set design is spectacular and I wish he'd come back to the runway with proper models and make it rain confetti at the end or something.

Collection wise it's not my fave work from him by far though I'm sure when I see it in person I'll be tempted to swipe my card lol.

 

[reese06]

This seems completely irrelevant. Who is buying this?

 

[Frederic01]

Thanks Frederic.

I wouldn’t dress nor am attracted to this aesthetic. But Hedi time and time again with his Celine men’s, impresses with such a distinct and unwavering direction that’s always true to the standards of high fashion. He’s so precise with how he envisions menswear, that even the most tacky/gaudy/tasteless sensibilities are produced and presented so exquisitely, so refined and so expensively. Hints of The Thin White Duke permeates this collection, and thankfully not a sign of costume, nostalgia nor retro. And nothing looks cheap with his men’s.

No Problem! I wish they would publish the entire collection, but with Celine cancelling their partnership with Vogue/Vogue Runway, I don't think that will ever happen.

Regarding the clothes, I 100% agree with you. Overall it's not my personal style at all, but I do appreciate pieces here and there. The tailoring is very strong and Celine makes proper jackets, you can tell in the store. The way the shoulder is constructed and the body of the jacket. It's luxe.

This is an improvement on last season for sure. It's much more slick and grown-up somehow? It's nice to see a slight evolution of his work, even if it is very slight. Saint Laurent Menswear is still stuck regurgitating teenager clothes that Hedi designed 10 years ago.

 

[Frederic01]

Thank you for posting the pictures.

I believe a thread had already been created?

Sorry, I didn't see! I don't know how to combine threads. Is someone able to help with that?

 

[Phuel]

No Problem! I wish they would publish the entire collection, but with Celine cancelling their partnership with Vogue/Vogue Runway, I don't think that will ever happen.

Regarding the clothes, I 100% agree with you. Overall it's not my personal style at all, but I do appreciate pieces here and there. The tailoring is very strong and Celine makes proper jackets, you can tell in the store. The way the shoulder is constructed and the body of the jacket. It's luxe.

This is an improvement on last season for sure. It's much more slick and grown-up somehow? It's nice to see a slight evolution of his work, even if it is very slight. Saint Laurent Menswear is still stuck regurgitating teenager clothes that Hedi designed 10 years ago.

His Celine men’s was steadily ever-evolving. But yes, this is absolutely a growth, an evolution with his Celine men. Unfortunate that there isn’t much going on with his women's. (But that’s clearly dictated by commerce— and how the Asian market of how teen girls dress and will buy. Another discussion for another thread.)

And more than this tribe of teen boys growing up, if only in dress and performance, there is this press to forge onward with the couture-y flourishes; from the finishes that are traditionally adorned on couture gowns/evening wear, to the construction of the suitings and their fabrications. I’ve made peace long ago that he’s moved on from the YSL/Dior Homme that was for me, and onto this next fashion frontier. All these traditionally feminine characteristics associated with couture, he’s bringing into menswear, and all still with a distinct vibe that’s associated with the machismo of a certain type of young heteros of subcultures (skaters/BMXers/garage bands). This is a creative and genuine version of fluid fashion— not the lazy, throw-a-dress-on-a-guy by lessers Alessandro/JW/Ludovic etc It’s completely relevant and more importantly, done thoughtfully-- more so with how political fashion is so desperate to be these days (… and doing so embarrassingly awful at it, to boot. I swear, I will maintain that fashion people — especially this new generation, aren’t the brightest of the lot by a long shot until the day I’m fed to the lions.)

The irony of his Celine men’s is that it’s become way way way way ahead of his women’s in terms of design integrity and creative relevance. The men’s is coming off so effortlessly couture— and so appropriate an option for women, BTW. While the womenswear is like the Old Navy of Celine. It’s clear which line Hedi’s passion lies with.

 

[MulletProof]

This seems completely irrelevant. Who is buying this?

Korean boy band members?

 

[Phuel]

Mullet is Cathy Horyn, people.

 

[PierreGotha]

This is definitely his strongest Celine menswear collection to date! All the Hedi-isms are still distinctive with an evolved form and construction. somehow it looks controlled and well-curated. The jackets will sell, especially in the asian market.

 

[Lola701]

It’s so weird to see Hedi follow the trends…
His execution is still enjoyable but it comes off as too late coming from him. It’s even weirder because he is someone who has always been quite strong about his principles in terms of design and aesthetic.

It’s a bit sad in a way but I feel like this collection would look great on a woman.

I guess at Celine they have like two drastically different types of customers because those die hard Hedi Fans since Dior Homme are more into something more practical and classic. It’s a pity in a way that he doesn’t have an elevated proposition for them…

 

[SpeedRacer666]

More runway looks added here:

RUNWAY LOOKS

I don't really care for the direction of Celine these days, that being said this is a step-up from the logo-mania the menswear has adhered to.

 

[george5]

the very first Celine mens collection that made me raise a brow; classic sharp and graphic glam rock that only Hedi can make. Saint Laurent mens s/s 2014 teas

 

[balmain1914]

reproducing DIOR HOMME from old times

 

[tricotineacetat]

Glad to see him return to some degree of form here, despite the fact that the Celine website will be full of easy-digestable 'streetwear' clothes and probably display only but a fraction of the stronger pieces in this collection, which are all the decadently daring pieces (the higher heeled cowboy boots, all the couture pieces and yes, even the almost-ridiculous lametta fringe pieces) and those just-right 80ies leather jackets (I wished there were a few more without studs or motifs in the back to pick up on this silhouette in a more discreet way).

I think given the current climate and the fact that Monsieur Hedi has no interest in to go rogue with a niche brand, this is the best we can expect from him. Not sure how well this will translate in his womenswear but at least in men's, his work is still far superior than most of what is out there.

 

[RilkeRainer]

Molto Bellissimo‼

 

[keviners]

I think Hedi is a very modern designer and his aesthetic at Celine is very sexy.