Celine S/S 2025 Paris

By far his best womenswear collection ever. But leaving the ubiquitous Chanel comparisons aside (and yes, I wasn’t expecting such an honest and straight-forward proposition for a completely different fashion house); what I appreciate the most is his evolution giving women a much more wide range of style and fit through this tenure.

I remember during his Saint Laurent days that people used to say that in the end of the day, his mens collections compensated his weak offerings for the counterpart; but making an effort to show something fresh and youthful yet still appealing a large amount of clientele of all ages, and giving importance to both tailoring and dressmaking equally then I can see him being a womenswear designer full time.
 
i think we should get it right... its a caricature or the idea of chanel. The real and current Chanel has moved on from this basicness under karl. Karl's Chanel was a world of dreams, nothing as basic as this even in his laziest form.

This just wont be enough for Chanel's top clients.
 
It's very debutante. Very European aristocracy. Very CAUCASIAN.

Stunning from start to finish.
it's also very usa detroit music scene and usa pageant and nyc 50´s office lady and stop white washing history lol black usa music and culture was influential as rap is now for style and music

black artist literally had their style and songs stolen by white music labels ......


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Hedi's Celine often feels like watching Hedi work things out in real time. I mean that positively. I'd say a few seasons ago he really definitively aligned his vision of himself with his vision for Celine, and now that he's answered 'What is Hedi's Celine?', he's taking that unified vision on new adventures like 'How does Hedi's Celine woman out-Parisian chic the Chanel woman?' and 'What does the Celine hediboy wear while having his first gay romance at British finishing school?'
 
I find it astonishing every time how “cleaned up” everything drapes and is cut - If it wasn't for the fact that this is a video, one would have to assume somebody spent months to retouch the images to achieve this illusion. It‘s of course nothing new with Hedi when you followed him through from Dior, the term 'flawless cut' never fitted a designer better than him!

That being said, criticism of his work is valid. I find the endless parade of non-colors a bit limiting and predictable and this idea of a somewhat conservative retro-french look not very exciting - The best looks are those looks referencing Cristobal Balenciaga.

Either way, I'd like to believe the better designers have something about them that expands your view on clothing and for me, it's the zealous devotion to a flawlessly cut and made end product, the devotion to a super fine-tuned proportion that I have learned from Hedi. That precision of his, is unparalleled.
 
Who still wants to get dressed like this? Chanel itself is irrelevant. In fact everything about french fashion feels irrrelevant, all too stuck in the past. "Un certain je ne sais quoi" blah blah. 🤣
Raising my hands :lol:
minus the pleated skirts...they don't look modern to me?
but love the Cristobal Balenciaga looks.

btw, where can I see pictures for all looks?
 
it's also very usa detroit music scene and usa pageant and nyc 50´s office lady and stop white washing history lol black usa music and culture was influential as rap is now for style and music

black artist literally had their style and songs stolen by white music labels ......

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I have to agree with @PDFSD here, this is very true. Detroit music scene though would be more Supreme's, think Motown. The group referenced in the photos are the Ronnettes, which are from Manhattan's Washington Heights era. Ronnette's were Phil Spector, Supreme's were Barry Gordy. Similar but different.

The importance you highlight on cultural appropriation is a deep seated issue and really is the basis of argument of the origins of Rock and Roll and music all together. The collection draws influence from this era without a doubt. I am happy to see someone pointing it out with a reverence for the honest and truth of what this really is. Thank you.
 
Very indicative of where (luxury) fashion is at the moment - after years of Vetementsiaga and Slimania, overpriced streetwear/merch, monster footwear and ridiculously tiny handbags, stunt casting and a lot of talk about inclusivity, we entered an era of new conservatism, where full archival/retro looks are being praised bcs of the "great execution" and the "consistent vision". :rolleyes: While it's likely one of his better womenswear collections, I'm not gushing over yet another ultra-literal interpretation of a theme just because he's giving fuel to the Chanel rumours via some black bows and little dresses or bcs the production is solid.. it's an LVMH-owned brand, making it ritzy is the bare minimum.
 
Very indicative of where (luxury) fashion is at the moment - after years of Vetementsiaga and Slimania, overpriced streetwear/merch, monster footwear and ridiculously tiny handbags, stunt casting and a lot of talk about inclusivity, we entered an era of new conservatism, where full archival/retro looks are being praised bcs of the "great execution" and the "consistent vision". :rolleyes: While it's likely one of his better womenswear collections, I'm not gushing over yet another ultra-literal interpretation of a theme just because he's giving fuel to the Chanel rumours via some black bows and little dresses or bcs the production is solid.. it's an LVMH-owned brand, making it ritzy is the bare minimum.
It's aesthetically pleasing which beats these monstrous giant shoulders by miles. We need this after years of ugly looks no one wears in real life.
 
It's aesthetically pleasing which beats these monstrous giant shoulders by miles. We need this after years of ugly looks no one wears in real life.
Technically, we don't need any new clothes while parts of the world are burning, but since they are already being produced, it would be nice to see something appealing, yes, but also relevant for the time we live in, and I don't think this lineup of dainty babydolls straight out of a documentary on 60s music and fashion fits that criteria.
 
Seeing the "Couture" tags on the hangers makes me think that most of the pieces from this collection are probably going to be custom-made. Or maybe they’re gearing up to finally introduce a full Couture collection for real this time.

 
To be fair, Hedi is all cut and drape, and you really need clothes to be on a body to see that.

That tiered dress though, wtf. It's like that was one of the "Parisian chic" tropes corporate wanted him to include, and Hedi is making sure he's never asked to use that particular trope again.
 

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