Celine S/S 2025 Paris

at this point he is doing a caricature of chanel. Not moving it forward... just copying its vibe and doing exactly what a basic sheep would think a "chanel collection" would look like. Even virginies chanel felt more modern.
 
I have to admit that I really spend a nice moment watching this video. The editing was fantastic, the music was good and everything was perfect in terms.

I saw the typing machine and the signature at the end as the beginning and the end of a story.

I really love the collection. Probably one of his best at Celine.
« Un été Français » could have been named « Le Vestiaire d’une Bourgeoise ».

It was basically 1960’s Couture with Chanel, Balenciaga and YSL, a mix of Saint Germain des Près with Paris 16th. The tailleurs are Chanel, the babydoll dresses and smokings are YSL and the eveningwear is Balenciaga.

I love a lot of things, a lot of things related to my style. I hope the croc skirt is not real croc because I would be sad to not be able to afford it. The bags are great and the shoes, the headbands and the carrés de soie too.
Everything was perfect.

At the same time, I wouldn’t want Hedi elsewhere. He is not needed at Chanel or any other maison. I love his POV but I can live without it.

I think the beauty of this collection and of his work is beyond his strength as a stylist, his capacity to refresh and repackage the banal. There’s nothing groundbreaking here. I don’t particularly love the way he cuts those Chanel-esque jackets compared to his menswear inspired tailoring. There’s nothing groundbreaking in terms of design or construction (I think he could have been more ambitious in the construction of his dresses…Very straight cuts for everything) but it’s so familiar and well presented that it works.

The sad thing about his work is that it is Hedi yes, but it can be Hedi for any house. You can change the « Triomphe » logo for a « CC », a « YSL », a double Givenchy « GG » and tbh, it could work for a Gucci collection if there’s less black and white and more brown.

It’s maybe part of his talent but it is also where I draw my line in terms of interest in his work.

That being said, I’m ready to shop.
 
I like VV she has a special spot next to Karl for me, but Hedi knows how to cut and tailor things to look proportionally modern and cool its like a drawing, VV does not do this so well hence why so many things had a frumpy feel.

My critic is that some things felt flat when it came to the boucle and tweed items and the Jewelry was bit light and tin in the mix, but makes sense to not go all the way Chanel since he is not there yet :-)

Nico soundtrack was perfect vibe and the cat eyes she ddi was updated perfectly
 
You can change the « Triomphe » logo for a « CC », a « YSL », a double Givenchy « GG » and tbh, it could work for a Gucci collection if there’s less black and white and more brown.

i dont particularly follow his work and i think that developing celine into a megabrand should be his endgame. But do you think that people will know/identify visually that its his work if the logos/tags were changed?
 
This can easily be a youthful collection for Chanel if they have a Chanel Mademoiselle line, but I really like it for the youthful and simple vibe even the design is limited such as the pleat skirt/jacket combination and doll dress.
 
Very Vogue France in the 1960s, with touches of YSL, Betty Catroux, Chanel, Marc Bohan, etc etc.

At this point, I don't think he has anything to offer a brand like Chanel. To do eight shows a year, I mean, do you really think he can do that given his very limited aesthetic universe and given that he has pretty much done everything he could at Celine already?

Also, to release the show one hour before Alessandro debuts at Valentino is such a weird strategy. Like why not on a day that none of the major brands was showing? Why today before the most important show of the season?
 
Very Vogue France in the 1960s, with touches of YSL, Betty Catroux, Chanel, Marc Bohan, etc etc.

At this point, I don't think he has anything to offer a brand like Chanel. To do eight shows a year, I mean, do you really think he can do that given his very limited aesthetic universe and given that he has pretty much done everything he could at Celine already?

Also, to release the show one hour before Alessandro debuts at Valentino is such a weird strategy. Like why not on a day that none of the major brands was showing? Why today before the most important show of the season?
Ego.
 
i dont particularly follow his work and i think that developing celine into a megabrand should be his endgame. But do you think that people will know/identify visually that its his work if the logos/tags were changed?
Yes I think so because Hedi has left a lot of « bastards » already from Dior Homme to YSL and that his aesthetic is so identifiable as his now, through endless repetition, that it is a bit like a sticky piece of gum that cannot be removed from your shoes.

It’s very methodical. It’s the logos, the packaging, a certain type of leather, a certain color palette. Ok, at Celine, he used a lot more brown and burgundy but you have that B&W, Gold and Silver. His clothes have a specific cut. Even his sneakers are very specific. He does those permanent collections.

I think Hedi’s work is almost like a best-of Archetypes.

I have friends who don’t care that much about fashion but they bought his jeans and sneakers at Dior Homme. They were happy when KVA was there because things didn’t changed overnight but were desperate when Kim Jones joined. And the irony was that they didn’t fit the jeans at YSL but they bought the sneakers there.

In a way, Hedi has enough authority to come to a house, get rid of every thing that happened before him, align the narrative of a house only between him and the founder and recreate the same thing over again, then leave a fatherless child that has to be raised by the other designer.

Look at Saint Laurent menswear. It’s a mess. It’s only a mess because somehow Anthony has to walk in Hedi’s footsteps. They could totally have a different direction for the menswear by now but they are almost prisoners of Hedi’s aesthetic/way of operating.
 
Verges on the edge of 60s cosplay because it is just so incredibly serious. I guess the chandeliers falling were kind of funny. The people saying HS for Chanel — there has to be a little humor or irony at Chanel and he just doesn't have that. People will want carousel minaudières and little Chanel tchotchkes because that is what a good chunk of their clients expect. If he refuses to do shows and interviews, he just won't work for Chanel.
 
Gamine French girl fashion from 1965-67 essentially before Hippie Bohemian looks took over. I enjoyed this but its too basic for Chanel but he is very good at packaging what is essentially a very retro look but making it new again and to Gen Z girls this is new to their eyes.
 
Verges on the edge of 60s cosplay because it is just so incredibly serious. I guess the chandeliers falling were kind of funny. The people saying HS for Chanel — there has to be a little humor or irony at Chanel and he just doesn't have that. People will want carousel minaudières and little Chanel tchotchkes because that is what a good chunk of their clients expect. If he refuses to do shows and interviews, he just won't work for Chanel.
Virginie didn’t do interviews…
But the down side was that Bruno Pavlovsky was then more present in the media (which I don’t think is good).

Tbh, I’m warming up more and more to the idea of Jacquemus at Chanel.
At least, I know something will happen there.

I know it has the potential to be fun and if he can’t have a good idea, there are archives to rely on.

But yes, with Hedi, it feels limited and contrived. We all can like it because it’s quite safe.
 

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