Chanel Pre-Fall 2026 New York | Page 10 | the Fashion Spot

Chanel Pre-Fall 2026 New York

The girls are fighting!! But I'm here thinking how stunning this dress is. Something Karl would never do too. I mean ORANGE lol I don't think Karl knew this colour existed.

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Oh Karl knew and he did MUCH BETTER, maybe just once but enough to hunt us for the next decades, the sports line reminds demanding on vintage market nowadays
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I think that's probably on you, since your New York is a matter of shoe wear, and Blazy's is drawing very clearly from decades of American design.
Quite the opposite. Some people start planning their outfits with shoes. What shoes you plan to wear in a city like New York on a given day is extremely important.

When Calvin Klein was around, people wore Stilettos. Then came covid, and with all the people with mental issues (the institutions were too crowded so Deblasio released these folks), wearing stilettos became unrealistic. If one doesn't understand this reality, you don't know what a woman deals with in NYC at all, let alone designing for them.

I will tell you the brutal reality: the whole New York thing is an excuse to hide the fact that they are in a panic because the debut show was hated so much by the customers. By making this a New York "theme", they can throw everything against the wall and see what sticks.

In fact, the SAs already started texting their clients for their top looks. They are trying to figure out what sticks.
 
Quite the opposite. Some people start planning their outfits with shoes. What shoes you plan to wear in a city like New York on a given day is extremely important.

When Calvin Klein was around, people wore Stilettos. Then came covid, and with all the people with mental issues (the institutions were too crowded so Deblasio released these folks), wearing stilettos became unrealistic. If one doesn't understand this reality, you don't know what a woman deals with in NYC at all, let alone designing for them.

I will tell you the brutal reality: the whole New York thing is an excuse to hide the fact that they are in a panic because the debut show was hated so much by the customers. By making this a New York "theme", they can throw everything against the wall and see what sticks.

In fact, the SAs already started texting their clients for their top looks. They are trying to figure out what sticks.
Oh my god it is not that literal. Blazy didn't design this collection as a homage to the most appropriate footwear for New York in 2025. It is really not about what women are currently wearing there as footwear, because it is not being designed "for" the women of New York (at least not exclusively). A woman in Beijing isn't going to put down a pair of Chanel heels because they're not appropriate for life in New York, but she's still a targeted customer. The New York aspect is a guiding fantasy or thread, as it has always been with the Métier d'art shows.
 
As someone who has seen many, many fashion cycles go , this is a very banal and lacklustre Chanel. I do not forsee this designer remotely having the tenure of Karl, at max I give 3-4 years, Blazy does not have the chops for couture that is firmly established without dispute, those sloppy party city skirts/ sloppy jackets are not going to cut it with rich ladies. No glamour, chicness and its completely lacking that Gallic soul which is what gives Chanel its identity.
 
I will tell you the brutal reality: the whole New York thing is an excuse to hide the fact that they are in a panic because the debut show was hated so much by the customers. By making this a New York "theme", they can throw everything against the wall and see what sticks.

In fact, the SAs already started texting their clients for their top looks. They are trying to figure out what sticks.

So true! And the fact that there was a lot of criticism from the existing clientele was suggested by both Matthieu and Bruno P in interviews this week.

Sorry to say but Matthieu’s Pre-Fall will not outsell Virginies first Pre-Fall collection (apparently their top selling Metiers d’Art of all time). If you look back to that collection you can see why it resonated so much with the Chanel clientele. It was opulent and dreamy and ultimately: classic. Not much of a fashion proposition or a conversation starter, but still a good and solid Chanel collection. That is what people want.

I don’t know why Chanel HQ want so desperately to be part of “the fashion conversation”. Why can’t they just accept that Chanel sells because it is what it is. People want that tacky logo everywhere, they want those basic tweed jackets in black and pink and white, they want the classic things etc etc. If you’ve ever worked with Chanel HQ in Paris you know this is true. Sales wise and company structure wise.

For goodness sake they have these people called “style experts” in every region teaching them how to “interpret the runway” and styling them based off of outdated Parisian fashion stereotypes and concepts like “the Parisienne”. I remember in Hong Kong they had this lady who was the most cringe and pretentious person ever who went around the region styling people and she had the most basic tips ever: white shirt or blouse with everything, jeans with a Chanel jacket, etc.

Chanel is not a brand that is meant to be directional. They want to be Margiela but they also want to be a 18 billion company. It’s like no. You either want to be commercial or you want to be niche. Choose a side and stick to it.
 
The exploration of Fashion Archetypes has become so tiring and pastiche these days. I blame Demna for this feeling of withdrawal. NYC is NYC; anyone can harness and get it. His debut remains his strongest collection so far. However, there are some nicer separate pieces here and there. MB needs to wow Chanel's clientele, who is about to jump ship. Give us something unexpected, like a resort collection that revolves around the idea of Coco Chanel going on a yacht trip to Bali. Something like that...

I could also smell the station from my laptop screen. How can the guest bear to sit and watch in a hot, humid and putrid setting? NYC has the dirtiest train stations amongst all of the G7 countries.
 
Honestly when I saw the promotional materials for the show, my mind went “oh my god~~ Chanel is doing ‘Flushing pride’ for their New York show”

It wasn’t a good sign. That tweed jacket on Margaret Qualley looks like a combination of those red-white-blue nylon bags…

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… and those tweed jackets that I see on East Asia retail sites like Taobao, Shopee, Lazada… the fringes made it worse by increasing the volume. Ended up, she looks like those “da ma” (‘big mother’, which means middle aged women with unsophisticated mannerisms) from the improvised rural north-eastern China, whom you can find in Flushing behind the cashier in a family run Asian mart carrying groceries parallel imported from China. And A$AP Rocky was basically in a set of red track suit (he looks like a 「精神小伙」… go google and you’ll know what I mean)… the entire theme looks so Chinese New Year I could basically hear the cheesy heng-ong-huat jingles going in my head

This is how bad the first impression of this collection is to me. The actual show didn’t help. That orange “tiger dress” felt like a discarded idea from the offices of Proenza Schouler or Gucci (as much as I hate how Alessandro Michele “destroyed” Valentino I don’t think he will ever go there). For Chanel, I expect to find a certain level of “polish” and “architecture”, none of which can be found in this collection. Some of the clothes are so ill-fitted or cut so “loose” in a negative way. The entire collection felt so Proenza, but I think the duo can do a better job

There are some desirable merchandise (basically bags) which I can see selling like hot cakes, but the flap bags with the legs… no. They are just novelty items, bad novelty items

And the fringes… the fringes on the clothes, the fringes on the bags. I know Chanel owns Lesage and Lemarié but when can Matthieu Blazy be done with those fringes it’s getting seriously annoying
 
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Just like the laughable rumors and threats of wealthy New Yorkers leaving the city if Mamdani became mayor, Chanel customers aren't going anywhere. There will inevitably be something of interest to purchase especially now that Blazy is slowly flooding the market with a multitude of choices collection by collection (logo or otherwise) for nearly any and all potential buyers. Chanel will always be Chanel.
 
The exploration of Fashion Archetypes has become so tiring and pastiche these days. I blame Demna for this feeling of withdrawal. NYC is NYC; anyone can harness and get it. His debut remains his strongest collection so far. However, there are some nicer separate pieces here and there. MB needs to wow Chanel's clientele, who is about to jump ship. Give us something unexpected, like a resort collection that revolves around the idea of Coco Chanel going on a yacht trip to Bali. Something like that...

I could also smell the station from my laptop screen. How can the guest bear to sit and watch in a hot, humid and putrid setting? NYC has the dirtiest train stations amongst all of the G7 countries.
I was actually going to bring this up: New York’s subways are infamous for being dirty, chaotic, and full of rats, yet Chanel’s creative team decided that a decommissioned subway station ,something overwhelmingly associated with working class life—was the perfect backdrop for a luxury runway show. It comes off with this almost Marie Antoinette level delusion, a “let them eat cake” fantasy moment, especially when the vast majority of working-class New Yorkers could never dream of affording those clothes.
What makes the whole thing even more ironic and karmic is that the designer who actually captures that Chanel glamour isn’t at Chanel at all, it’s Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli, Coco’s rival in the 1930s.
 
For goodness sake they have these people called “style experts” in every region teaching them how to “interpret the runway” and styling them based off of outdated Parisian fashion stereotypes and concepts like “the Parisienne”. I remember in Hong Kong they had this lady who was the most cringe and pretentious person ever who went around the region styling people and she had the most basic tips ever: white shirt or blouse with everything, jeans with a Chanel jacket, etc.

Chanel is not a brand that is meant to be directional. They want to be Margiela but they also want to be a 18 billion company. It’s like no. You either want to be commercial or you want to be niche. Choose a side and stick to it.

I can confirm I have no affiliation with Chanel and am not employed by them. In fact, I should probably charge them royalties for misusing my name. :lol:

Where to even start with this collection? There is a lot to digest, and I am surprised by how loud it is, to the point that it is sometimes unpleasant to look at. It is obvious that they are trying to place themselves back in the centre of the fashion conversation but the effort feels extremely forced
Some looks, with their complete lack of refinement or subtlety, fall straight into full AM Gucci or Moschino territory.

They will keep selling the basic logo merch and the usual classic bags, shoes and tweeds like hot cakes. The runway collections exist simply to get people talking about Chanel again, which is of course nothing new. The shift now is that the clothes have been inflated into these loud, attention-grabbing pieces that function as talking points. The press, paid or not, will praise it anyway and at this point online divisiveness is treated as a strategy rather than a problem. After the Virginie years the real issue was that no one cared much about the runway even though the brand kept selling well, and I think that convinced them that they could sell even more if they put themselves back in the centre of the conversation.

My main issue is the presentation in the subway station. The setup for his debut show with the planets was quite clever, and compared to that the subway felt basic and generic. It came across as a messy and outdated attempt to show “luxury” against a “gritty” backdrop. As PDFSD pointed out, MB seems to love this idea and treats it as 'modern'. I would actually love to see them commit to an ultra luxe environment next time, something that aligns with the upper end of Chanel’s client base, and see how the clothes hold up there.

I would not go as far to call it poor cosplay, but the idea that the New York subway is so iconic on its own is baffling. Literally zero creative thinking there. Cathy Horyn, for once, got it right in her review.
 
Not sure what sort of point you think you're making here. Yes, Karl became a caricature of himself and did so as a sort of armor. Now that he's dead, I think we have a duty to get through the armor—to evaluate the work on its own terms, to find areas of strength and moments of banality or kitsch. That's what is interesting to me about fashion, not the game of canonization people seem to want to play here.

It’s not about “canonisation” it’s just a fact whether you or anyone liked what he did at Chanel, his legacy again remains and will do so forever!! He was a genius in his own right and sits amongst the greats of his generation!! There is nothing more or less to this, specially to make excuses for Blazy’s attempt to redefine Chanel?!! Anyone can go through all his work and find looks that were disastrous hell I didn’t like everything he did!! But Karl & Chanel are synonymous!! Will the same be said about Blazy & Chanel I doubt it highly and that’s me being generous!!
 
I agree with all the comments pointing out this collection feels like an interpretation of CHANEL by Alessandro Michele, very chaotic, entropic, very urban jungle if you know what I mean.
I also see lots of Schiaparelli with that total black ensemble with gold hardware details and the petit chapeau shaped as panther head.
The top tier seasonal bags are very tacky and corny, they are giving Dollar tree store or "let's put a christmas decoration over a double flap".
The costume jewelry is terrible however, it feels very cheap and does not elevate the looks at all. CHANEL under late Karl and Virginie built a very successful costume jewelry line but I don't see the beauty of it under Blazy. Even the debut had very lackluster jewelry.
 
He did have everything, history references, Chanel references, Luxury details, maybe some new creation, even new silhouettes, but just doesn’t make sense, I didn’t see anything with feeling, besides they are many ugly looks, it’s not what creative director should do, it seems he is also not confident about himself, he can actually focus on his first look, to strengthen it( if it’s his willing of Chanel, like what he wears always), make it more chic, and think more about details and possibilities of this kind look, but in stead he just make it a real Zara and mix it with many hardworking looks. And I don’t like his silhouette, every one looks 2meters and with huge wide hip bone, not chill at all, looks like 2D drawing moving, there is no subtle flow when models walking,I don’t think it’s good for Chanel, maybe some other brand
 
It’s not about “canonisation” it’s just a fact whether you or anyone liked what he did at Chanel, his legacy again remains and will do so forever!! He was a genius in his own right and sits amongst the greats of his generation!!!
THIS!!
Im all for supporting Blazy. I support him and like what he does but im very much against that throw the old in the trash because we have to be super reverent to the new.

If it wasn’t for his health and ultimately his death, Karl for me had quite a lot of stuff to deliver at Fendi and Chanel. It may be an unpopular opinion but I think his last few collections at both Chanel and Fendi were fantastic.

What I have always liked about Karl was that I never felt like he made compromises on his creativity. That’s something that I respect. That’s the quality that I enjoy in general in fashion and that I feel is back at Chanel. You shouldn’t be afraid to not please.

Matthieu is only writing his story at Chanel now and one day (for some it started the day of his debut show) people will also say that he has become a caricature of himself.

He will be the old that people will want to throw in the trash. Meanwhile he is achieving something. Let him achieve.
Karl started in 1954 and was active until 2019.
We can only wish for designers to be able to experience success, creative control and glory for many decades.
 
The macro doesn't exist without the micro; that would make also make it amorphous, like an empty sack. The point is that the two co-constitute one another. I don't think any designers work top-down from vision/idea/sketch to execution, in a fully linear manner. The method is far more like the scientific method—a designer has an idea, often emerging as a question about a *detail* like fabric or cut, and then tries to work through that idea with the ateliers, etc. Some ideas succeed, some don't, but a collection is never some pre-formed, idealist unity. We're talking about craft, technique, and experimentation; none of those things come down from above. Rather, they come from trying to figure out how to do X with Y.

And even though I think the analogy with fashion is a flawed one, the "laws of physics," weren't "discovered" all at once—scientific "laws" come from decades, if not centuries, of mistakes and failures and hypotheses. So yeah, people did see the micro before the macro in that context, hence the whole story of the Apple falling on Newton's head.
fruity love you but your exhausting :)

i didn't say again that the micro does not exist without the marco or vice versa ....said it before you keep changing the goal post on the points made 🤦‍♀️ we are going in words saled has bad as Blazy´s Chanel.

i am talking about order of sequence like 1 comes before 2 ..you know :) like the clock of life.

i know how collections are build because from day zero, i been in high fashion for 17 years and i am playing dumb on here to keep it simple .

you can take what i say or leave it in the dirty but i am not going to spell it out.

rest my case .
 

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