At Chanel, a Subtle Sense of Luxe
By CATHY HORYN
Published: October 11, 2003
PARIS, Oct. 10 — "Twenty years, and I've never thought to do a trench coat for Chanel," said Karl Lagerfeld, sounding as amazed as a baker who has never tasted his own bread. "But it's not really Chanel." A chain is, though, and in working up some embroidered trimming that looks at a distance like chain and tracing it around the collar and flaps of a trench, Mr. Lagerfeld found yet another way to make a classic pay.
For though he is a designer and the hired hand of the Wertheimer family, who own the house — he will often sit up in his studio and watch the procession of models and editors with the mild curiosity of town folk resting on their porches in the evening — Mr. Lagerfeld is adept at knowing what the market will want at a certain moment. He demonstrated this on Friday, as the spring 2004 collections hit the midpoint, with a Chanel show that sparkled with feminine clothes nicely underplayed with a laid-back sense of luxe.
Tweed coats in a blend of pink, rose and cream, including one woven with velvet ribbon by Lesage, appeared over skimmy dresses in silk prints. A fizz of tweed embroidery ran down the edges of the coats, and on their cuffs and collars were delicate patches of white cotton tatting, known here as "ouvrage de dames."
Whereas many designers can summon only clichés to express their feelings about women — the feather boa, the glamour-puss mule — Mr. Lagerfeld has chosen a medium far more contemplative: women's handwork. There were knit dresses and beach jackets that employed a similar technique, and for the dame who has everything, a crocheted bikini.
Though Mr. Lagerfeld professes to loathe nostalgia, he is a helpless addict of tradition, and some part of him always wants to preserve the past before it blows away and is forgotten. This summer, in the course of stocking his new underground library at his home in Biarritz, with some 100,000 volumes, he rediscovered a trove of old vinyl records, including Blondie's "Heart of Glass." He played the song as the models came out (smiling for a change) in their cardigans, old-fashioned rose prints and polished denim dresses glinting with jet and worn with low-heeled summer sandals. Mr. Lagerfeld occasionally does wear his feelings on his sleeve.