Chanel S/S 2026 Paris

[jssy4eva]

And that that Awar. she has no presence, what is special about her? Why are we obliged to admire her? she does nothing for me.

Who is forcing you to admire her? This feels like you just wanting to express your dislike for her - you're entitled to that opinion, but its a weird way to bring it up.

 

[Yohji]

He had 1 year to come up with a vision which would be people’s first impression of him.
Raf Simons had only 2 months for his first Dior couture and it was not a disappointment, for instance. It was welcome by both the public and the critics.
I see Lagerfeld’s stamina in Jonathan Anderson though.

And Blazy's collection wasn't? It seems that you are letting your personal opinion cloud your judgment.

 

[Lorenzogi]

Who is forcing you to admire her? This feels like you just wanting to express your dislike for her - you're entitled to that opinion, but its a weird way to bring it up.

she’s no Alek Wek:

 

[Nimsay]

One of Karls best HC shows.

 

[jeanclaude]

His version of 2-55 bags looks like they have been chewed and then spat out.

 

[ivano]

I love how the last model breaks the 4th wall. Reminds me of to the times of Luna or Cara looking for Karl. A sign of joy, something missed under Virginie and the Chanel team over the last year. And the set! A return to form to Lagerfeld themes. Anyone knows if Gaubert is still behind the soundtrack?

 

[Creative]

His version of 2-55 bags looks like they have been chewed and then spat out.

All I can think about when I see them is Sponge bob in his most famous meme with his face fully deformed and ugly

 

[Creative]

I love how the last model breaks the 4th wall. Reminds me of to the times of Luna or Cara looking for Karl. A sign of joy, something missed under Virginie and the Chanel team over the last year. And the set! A return to form to Lagerfeld themes. Anyone knows if Gaubert is still behind the soundtrack?

It was fake for sure. But well done in terms of marketing. People are so basic and the ones working at these brands know viral moments are very sought after…

Everyone with an empty life loves a little bit of tenderness in TikTok… it makes them feel better. The new KL is soft and tender and runs for a hug in the catwalk. Oh so cute, I’m gonna repost it. Pure cringe😭

 

[youthinasia]

His version of 2-55 bags looks like they have been chewed and then spat out.

𝘭𝘰𝘭, looks like it’s been Demna-fied

 

[Avonlea]

If was corny. All the models were very serious, walking straight, no expression and then she comes out almost dancing like it's Rio Carnival. Nothing against her, but they should have made the atmosphere relaxed, so that it would feel more natural.

 

[yslforever]

I really think this collection is not enough for a 12 months project (even though he officially started in April), it is not directional nor comprehensive enough.
Imho Matthieu lacks the experience, he’s not a veteran: he has been CD for 3 years only in one house, I really don't know if he can succeed at Chanel.
I have more confidence with Jonathan at Dior, he has created his own brand, a collab with Topshop and then Uniqlo, and leaded and turnaround Loewe for 12 years. We know all the things he is capable because we saw it.
I can’t say the same about Matthieu, we saw 3 years of surfing Lee’s ride by including some Philoism and BV craftsmanship, with great success. But deep down, I feel only 3 years as lead CD is not enough to grasp the whole scope of Chanel.

 

[rowjellies]

I can’t say the same about Matthieu, we saw 3 years of surfing Lee’s ride by including some Philoism and BV craftsmanship, with great success.

he was at the right place at the right time

 

[jeanclaude]

After seeing the detail pics, I wonder how the hell is Blazy going to make a Little Black Dress...his brain could implode with such a minimal design!!

You need a shovel to try to remove all those tons of embellishments, and see somehow the clothes beneath them.

 

[Creative]

I really think this collection is not enough for a 12 months project (even though he officially started in April), it is not directional nor comprehensive enough.
Imho Matthieu lacks the experience, he’s not a veteran: he has been CD for 3 years only in one house, I really don't know if he can succeed at Chanel.
I have more confidence with Jonathan at Dior, he has created his own brand, a collab with Topshop and then Uniqlo, and leaded and turnaround Loewe for 12 years. We know all the things he is capable because we saw it.
I can’t say the same about Matthieu, we saw 3 years of surfing Lee’s ride by including some Philoism and BV craftsmanship, with great success. But deep down, I feel only 3 years as lead CD is not enough to grasp the whole scope of Chanel.

I think time is not that important… you are either good or bad. Look at Nicolas, Tisci, Stefano, Olivier… I think they got worse once time passed by.

And I think he will be a big success in every sense, not because his collections are particularly good, which they aren’t, but because I think he has a star… people love him no matter what. It’s strange. I like many of the things he did in BV, but just LIKE them, I don’t think he’s any kind of genius. The worst thing is that I believe he doesn’t even have a very personal POV, so it’s kinda baffling to see Carine, for instance, that excited for a show like this one.

I also believe that his offerings won’t get tiring soon, which is a good thing. He doesn’t rely on gimmicks and that’s quite important. I am kinda tired already in how JW does collections (like very ramdonly, which is a very late 10’s and beginning of 20s approach). Not that MB collection was super cohesive, but the randomness is not that blatant.

 

[Avonlea]

I really think this collection is not enough for a 12 months project (even though he officially started in April), it is not directional nor comprehensive enough.

That's my biggest issue. You either have the vision or don't. He had enough time to create something clear and well edited. If he didn't feel confident enough, he could have referenced the archives, copy some of Karl's and Coco's designs in different fabrics and style everything in a fresh way. Just do something that shows a point of view. This is the most important job in fashion, your first show should the proof that you deserved it, not a testing ground.

 

[Creative]

That's my biggest issue. You either have the vision or don't. He had enough time to create something clear and well edited. If he didn't feel confident enough, he could have referenced the archives, copy some of Karl's and Coco's designs in different fabrics and style everything in a fresh way. Just do something that shows a point of view. This is the most important job in fashion, your first show should the proof that you deserved it, not a testing ground.

That’s something I thought as well… like how on earth can you put so many fillers in a 9month project??? He won’t ever have that much time to create a collection. Like 70% of it was just meh.

And we talk a lot about how many times Monsieur Vaccarello repeats garments in a show, but no one said anything about the same skirtl repeated 600 times here (I like the skirt tho). But then again, it’s the simplest skirt, done in the past a thousand times already. 🤷🏻‍♂️ And fashion devotees act like they are seeing the Virgin.

 

[fruitdots]

ACTUALLY let me tell you why clothes made from peteroleum are better. Youre just not educated enough.

If you don't understand that viscose is *not,* in any capacity, made from petroleum, then yes—you need a better education. It is made from cellulose, which is entirely organic.

But beyond that, the debate regarding synthetics/semi-synthetics here has become ridiculous. Both have been used by designers for decades now, and during that period there have been significant technological advances in textile production. They weren't adopted solely because they were cheaper—they were adopted because designers saw that they had distinct qualities which could lead to new techniques in garment construction, or because they presented new colours and textures (etc). So there's a symbiosis or feedback loop whereby designers, in making use of these capacities, not only discover new techniques but push forward the development of still newer fabrics.

And the question of technique or construction—and hence labour—is the other missing element here. Yes, a synthetic/semi-synthetic will typically be cheaper than a silk or wool, but that doesn't take into account the factor of labour. If the use of viscose or polyester involves couture-level techniques, then *skilled labour* is the major factor or cost, and there's the very real possibility that a viscose garment will be more labour-intensive and hence more expensive.

Finally, if you want to go after the big houses for cost-cutting, then go after them for labour exploitation. We've all seen the reports about the use sketchy subcontractors & other methods to exploit precarious labourers. And here Loro Piana is perhaps case in point: you can feel as righteous as you want about wearing cashmere, assuming that there has been no cost-cutting involved because it's a natural fibre, but you'd be sorely mistaken in doing so because Loro Piana is under *judicial administration* in Italy for the exploitation of migrant workers (not to get into the question of their vicuna, another notably organic fibre). The simple reality is that cost-cutting has occurred at a different point in the production process, and that *this is the broader condition of designer fashion at this very moment.* The suits aren't sitting there thinking "oh, we can save money by making viscose tweed," they're thinking "oh, we can save money by cutting labour costs," and they're doing the latter through increasingly opaque and exploitative schemes.

 

[Snejana Onopka]

the visceral and polarizing reactions towards his debut are a bit funny, this collection is neither a flop nor exceptional, it is a decent debut that served its purpose of making chanel a little less dusty. it shouldn't warrant meltdowns like the one fury just had. tbh I forgot almost everything once i finished watching the livestream

the red skirt and final look reminded me of a tupinamba cloack which is very nice

 

[mepps]

I liked it a lot.
Chic, beautiful clothes, and the final girl was fabulous, with her smile.❤️

YSL, Tom Ford, and Chanel are favs. The rest they can flush.

 

[Caffeine]

only 3 years as lead CD is not enough to grasp the whole scope of Chanel

...but for a corporate guy he is perfect, no?

But beyond that, the debate regarding synthetics/semi-synthetics here has become ridiculous. Both have been used by designers for decades now, and during that period there have been significant technological advances in textile production. They weren't adopted solely because they were cheaper—they were adopted because designers saw that they had distinct qualities which could lead to new techniques in garment construction, or because they presented new colours and textures (etc). So there's a symbiosis or feedback loop whereby designers, in making use of these capacities, not only discover new techniques but push forward the development of still newer fabrics.

And the question of technique or construction—and hence labour—is the other missing element here. Yes, a synthetic/semi-synthetic will typically be cheaper than a silk or wool, but that doesn't take into account the factor of labour. If the use of viscose or polyester involves couture-level techniques, then *skilled labour* is the major factor or cost, and there's the very real possibility that a viscose garment will be more labour-intensive and hence more expensive.

The only thing you didn't mention is women's skin. How we feel. To me, this matters the most. Chanel uses synthetics in its tweed fabric, but it always adds a silk lining, not viscose. Blazy's tweed, in a few instances here, has no lining, hence the skin is directly in contact with the tweed. It will feel differently (and less pleasant).