What I think is lost in many of the critiques about this collection — that it’s “not Chanel enough” or “too Bottega” — is the fact that this is a runway collection, created primarily for brand image and to communicate that there’s, indeed, a breath of fresh air being blown into Chanel. Yes, some of it will be produced in limited quantities and sold at insane prices, but even then, it’s meant for a very specific and small group of buyers.
No one has reported that Chanel’s more conservative, quintessential products — the classic tweed jackets, flap bags, jewelry, and their generally safe (if somewhat boring) shoe line — are being discontinued. Those will likely remain the commercial backbone of the house when it comes to the fashion department. Chanel will still be Chanel — we can be fairly sure of that.
Even the most conservative clients need to be reminded that Chanel is still THE house to go to — one that is both fashionable and exudes a certain savoir faire. In that sense, I think Mathieu was largely successful. The show created a strong halo effect over all the other product categories that weren’t even part of the runway presentation. The press and social media response to this show were overwhelmingly positive and practically everywhere so mission accomplished, I'd say.
When I reviewed the close-up images, I struggled to understand the “crumbled” bags. I realize there’s wiring inside that allows you to mold them as you like, but the concept — such a bit of sacrilege to the classic Chanel bag — feels more Demna than Chanel to me. Perhaps a bridge too far.
Overall, in the bags and shoes department, there wasn’t much that felt particularly exciting in this collection. The bigger, grained-leather bags were also a miss. This part — while I loved most of the RTW — is quite puzzling to me, because if you’re going to present a show with that many looks and bags, they’d better be exciting.
There's absolutely room for improvement but this is a very strong start. I'm curious about the art direction and visuals moving forward. And Couture in January should be very exciting.