Chanel S/S 2026 Paris

[Nimsay]

I think this dress perfectly captures the vision - it’s so effortlessly draped yet exquisitely defines the body. There’s none of that Dior-like tension, just pure drape and ease. It feels so quintessentially Chanel to me.

Best in the show for sure.

 

[Caffeine]

oh, interesting thought? Do any specific shows besides Chanel come to mind?

YSL was prob one of my fav shows this season but the bows and leather made me think back to fw06 by Pilati and definitely AV’s take is more of a costume while Pilatis was more professional and wearable. Even when there’s talk of “sexy” im always like, would i rather be a little minx for hubby in a cute office look or AV’s giant hazmat suit trench dress? but i guess there’s the “taking the big coat off” style of seduction.

but anywaysss i rlly am curious what shows inspired this insight

Demna's shows in general feature these looks...even some phoebe's work. But in general, these brands have their commercial lines, so you can always find basics there. Chanel's commercial approach with RTW was always different in that it produces pretty much everything presented on the runway, so unless they want to make the runway different from their commercial offerings ("act I"), in a collection like this, you won't find a jacket that works in a business setting.

I was thinking about this in the context of Jil Sander. It was a very different vision.

 

[Creative]

I saw the pictures again. Most of it is horrible. The more I look at it the worse it looks.

JW pieces are way way way better than this.

 

[Lola701]

Demna's shows in general feature these looks...even some phoebe's work. But in general, these brands have their commercial lines, so you can always find basics there. Chanel's commercial approach with RTW was always different in that it produces pretty much everything presented on the runway, so unless they want to make the runway different from their commercial offerings ("act I"), in a collection like this, you won't find a jacket that works in a business setting.

I was thinking about this in the context of Jil Sander. It was a very different vision.

Apparently, he may introduce a permanent collection, something Chanel doesn’t have (they only have permanent bags and shoes).
It was not confirmed though.

But yes they produce everything in various capacities though. The heavily embroidered or feathers pièces were either kept in the salons or produced only through pre-orders by the top clients.

But what has always been great with Chanel was the déclinaisons. What was presented as a suit on the runway could have a déclinaison as a coat or a dress. I’m curious to see how they will extend this collection.
I’m really into the tweed pantsuits in the beginning.
I’m waiting to see how it’s going to be reflected on the prices too.

 

[Avonlea]

She looks good. A welcome change after the Dior clown wear parade we witnessed.

 

[fruitdots]

I‘d like to think it was more Jil Sander, considering they both had quite a few biographic similarities as female entrepreneurs, which also informed their approach to design as well as the women they designed for.

I don‘t know how singular Phoebe Philo‘s point of view can be seen once we take into consideration that her Chloé felt like something drastically different - To me, her take on 'female, minimalist design' is less purposeful and utilitarian, than it is a fashion statement fit for the Zeitgeist her Celine and own label exist(ed) in, no?

To be fair, Jil Sander is very much a designer of the late-20th century, rather than the 21st. Of course she returned to her label in the early 2000s, but that was brief (thanks to Patrizio Bertelli). Her real period of influence is in the late-80s/early-90s, and as Grets has pointed out, we're now in a period (crisis?) of post-minimalism—broadly speaking.

I do see Sander in Phoebe Philo's work, but if I'm being critical, I think her role in what we're now calling "quiet luxury" has involved something of a perversion of the ethos of 80s/90s minimalism. And her work, especially at Celine, is/was far more invested in colour and pattern than any of the notable minimalists. I'd wager that the Celine blouse worn by Kanye at Coachella (2011) is one of her most iconic garments, and there it's really a matter of her skill as a colourist (one of her greatest strengths, and sadly not often on display at her own label).

 

[Nimsay]

I mean, Postmodernism is completely over - and with it, all the clothes that came out of that way of thinking are too.

 

[style_expert]

I can’t help but wonder what Chanel under Phoebe would have looked like — and to what extent they actually tried to pursue her for the role. The mere fact of having a female designer back at the house of Chanel would have been a story they could spin for ages, not to mention how beloved she is within the industry.

When people point out that there are some Phoebe elements in this Blazy Chanel collection — yes, he did work under her for a time (though not very long) — I don’t find it surprising that he’s at least partly inspired by the aesthetic she established at Celine, and to which he also contributed to some extent.

That said, I think Chanel can be extremely pleased with this debut collection. Overall, it seems to top most lists of both the best debuts and best shows of the season so far (I’m talking BOF, Vogue, and the general press). The timing — being the last big show of the season — was fortunate, as was the steady build-up without any unnecessary red-carpet previews. The Awar moment helped too, turning it into a cheerful, uplifting story. In terms of press and social media impact, they clearly outshined Dior, which I think was their main competition.

We’ll see what they do with this momentum. Of course, Chanel isn’t dependent on wholesale accounts, but in the end, the new direction has to translate across all their boutiques worldwide.
The placement of the dress on Ayo works — in fact, it looks better on her than on the runway model, which I find rather rare.

 

[fruitdots]

I mean, Postmodernism is completely over - and with it, all the clothes that came out of that way of thinking are too.

To a degree, but all the heavyweights of that period still loom large, even if through zombie houses like McQueen.

 

[RosesAreRed]

My dream would be Chanel (or Dior) by Alber Elbaz He is so so missed! He would do magical things. Remember his tweeds at Lanvin, they were modern and classic at the same time!

 

[Caffeine]

Apparently, he may introduce a permanent collection, something Chanel doesn’t have (they only have permanent bags and shoes).
It was not confirmed though.

But yes they produce everything in various capacities though. The heavily embroidered or feathers pièces were either kept in the salons or produced only through pre-orders by the top clients.

But what has always been great with Chanel was the déclinaisons. What was presented as a suit on the runway could have a déclinaison as a coat or a dress. I’m curious to see how they will extend this collection.
I’m really into the tweed pantsuits in the beginning.
I’m waiting to see how it’s going to be reflected on the prices too.

From the purseforum:

Good luck selling these.

 

[Lola701]

From the purseforum:

Good luck selling these.

View attachment 1422861 View attachment 1422862

Those are the usual prices for Chanel…
Prices won’t be an issue for the people who wants those specific pieces.
And the Act1, 2 are generally priced a bit lower.
This pricing is not so much surprising as the one from Haider’s Tom Ford.

I actually love the sheer skirts even if they aren’t on my wishlist at all.

 

[Caffeine]

Those are the usual prices for Chanel…
Prices won’t be an issue for the people who wants those specific pieces.
And the Act1, 2 are generally priced a bit lower.
This pricing is not so much surprising as the one from Haider’s Tom Ford.

I actually love the sheer skirts even if they aren’t on my wishlist at all.

For $8k one can buy a basic tweed jacket. This is decidedly not the old pricing.
Let alone printed skirts at this price.
The "old" prices are all on the website...

And printed viscose? Hermes now feels that it leaves way too much money on the table...can you imagine printed viscose Hermes scarves?

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I saw the pictures again. Most of it is horrible. The more I look at it the worse it looks.

JW pieces are way way way better than this.

Dior offered stronger clothing, Chanel stronger accessories — yet neither collection felt complete. Bottega Veneta’s debut was the most well-rounded.

 

[Caffeine]

Prices won’t be an issue for the people who wants those specific pieces.

btw, on the purseforum, someone spends well into 6 digit each year said that she felt insulted (among other things), someone who buys a few pieces each launch (in her 30s) said that she was not the target audience. on the rtw thread I think the hate/love ratio is like 10:1.
They will need to find some new customers...
Meanwhile, the previous collections in the store are being scooped up quickly. Maybe it is the plan all along.

 

[Grets]

the way the fashion media gushed over this collection but the purse forum ladies are not having it

 

[Lola701]

For $8k one can buy a basic tweed jacket. This is decidedly not the old pricing.
Let alone printed skirts at this price.
The "old" prices are all on the website...

And printed viscose? Hermes now feels that it leaves way too much money on the table...can you imagine printed viscose Hermes scarves?

You seems to forget that under Virginie they sold 4K tshirts…
Tweed jackets starts from 6K to 10k-15K. Their leather stuff usually start at 9K for example.
In RTW, the pricing has been relatively consistent for quite some times.

You know I don’t have a strong opinion on Chanel fabrics and the use of synthetics. I have Chanel dresses from 2008 with viscose in them. Beyond Chanel even.

Hermes also had viscose in their clothes. During the Gaultier years for example…

Alber at Lanvin used polyester, viscose…etc. Those fabrics are sometimes blend and things like that.
Chanel is a brand of options anyway. You can have a classic boucle suit next to a cotton tweed next a heavily embroidered proposition. I can only speak for my experience. I have never had a fabric issue with Chanel. Neither with a brand like Tom Ford where I bought a viscose suit from his first collection for example…

btw, on the purseforum, someone spends well into 6 digit each year said that she felt insulted (among other things), someone who buys a few pieces each launch (in her 30s) said that she was not the target audience. on the rtw thread I think the hate/love ratio is like 10:1.
They will need to find some new customers...
Meanwhile, the previous collections in the store are being scooped up quickly. Maybe it is the plan all along.

They will find new customers and lose some. They are a private company. They don’t have the pressure of shareholders asking them for instant results.

I was a Chanel client since 2004, religiously. I don’t think I have missed 1 year between 2004 to 2020. Sure I was never the VIC who spend +1000000€ a year but they have valued me a lot. I stopped buying clothes when Virginie took over. They lost a client but they gained many more.
I have some girlfriends who also stopped buying Chanel clothes and there are a ton of women who continued buying the thing.

I’m sorry but I find the current collection super tacky. I have no business wearing or wanting to wear a boot with a pearl heel with a huge CC on it. It’s ridiculous.

A lot of brands have lost clients. It’s not something that afraid brands anymore, as long as the vision of the CD is strong. Chanel is not Moschino…

With Blazy, they will have me back into the house. And I’m sure a lot of women will comeback to it and some will stay. I still won’t spend 10K on a jacket or on any single item because come on but I’m curious…

Chanel has to move on. And if this is the sacrifice to be less tacky, I’m on board. With Karl, there was also a balance.
It’s the same at Dior. I think no matter what, JWA will make it less tacky. That’s why even though the collection wasn’t that exciting, the idea of a wardrobe is not stupid.

 

[psychopsist]

Demna's shows in general feature these looks...even some phoebe's work. But in general, these brands have their commercial lines, so you can always find basics there. Chanel's commercial approach with RTW was always different in that it produces pretty much everything presented on the runway, so unless they want to make the runway different from their commercial offerings ("act I"), in a collection like this, you won't find a jacket that works in a business setting.

I was thinking about this in the context of Jil Sander. It was a very different vision.

seems like this post i just saw on instagram raises a similar point. It does seem like certain brands and collections aim more to make a spectacle than to make the model look or feel spectacular.

 

[Avonlea]

That instagram post is dumb.

 

[psychopsist]

That instagram post is dumb.

what’s dumb about it? I wanted to open discussion

it is very meaningless to me tho, like almost too nonsense to form any opinion on. i mean its only 3 sentences while “addressing” 3 separate shows.

but questions of “do these designers care about the wearer/wonan?” and talk of industry people being tryhards for virality seem common