Chinese Styles

[vanishing]

interesting bags
but the clothes...well just not my cup of tea...sorry

 

[haoshcn]

Well actually, Shanghai Tang is expanding rapidly. Selfridges stocks Shanghai Tang and if its sold in Selfridges in London, it must be mainstream enough for people to care.

Shanghai Tang is actually doing quite aggressive expansion right now, but that's because it's owned by Richemont and has the financial back-up now. It touts itself as the first global Chinese luxury brand, how much that is true, I guess the judge is still out there. I once read an interview of its president (a French guy ? ) and he said their first goal was to expand their sales network in mainland China and become a well-establsihed and genuine Chinese luxury brand. However, if they don't seriously reinvent their image, I don't think their prospect in Chinese market is going to be bright. Shanghai Tang's image has always been kind of like colonial era opium house cum cultural revolution with an extra touch of Kungfu or this or that. I mean, whichever seriously stylish modern Chinese lady with enough self-respect (no matter she lives in the US, Europe, Hongkong, Taiwan or mainland China) will identify with such an image and wear such clothes in daily life except on special occasions like a theme party or banquet? I saw their recent ad campaigns and it looks like they have been making some changes recently, for example drawing inspirations from Chinese ethnic minority clothes, but to be honest, most of their stuff still look more like exotic souvenirs rather than fashion items. Would Anna Wintour and Franca Sozzani wear souvenirs from day to day?


BTW, I like the pictures of Elezabeth Lau's design posted by susie bubble. Thanks! They look much better and promising than Shangai Tang.

 

[Estella*]

Not sure if the mods could merge this but I posted a thread dedicated to the British born Chinese designer Elizabeth Lau (who happens to be my cousin...shameless plug..I kno!). Ok ok...so she's not native mainland but we're not the completely westernised kind of Chinese either since we as a family shuttle back and forth between HK and UK. Oriental influences DEFINITELY figure into her designs (can testify to this since I own a lot of it!) She designed for Shanghai Tang for a few years and now she has a her own collection.

http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/f60/elizabeth-lau-probably-one-few-british-born-chinese-designers-around-34906.html

i can merge if you want but she won't have a seperate thread anymore then?

 

[susie_bubble]

^Yeah...please do...I think more ppl are checking this thread out anyway!
Thanks Anna!

 

[Estella*]

no problem

 

[Pinky*]

here here haoschcn, agree with every word you said.

i doubt shanghai tang could ever become a representative luxury chinese brand that they aim to be.. at least not the way things are going now.. seriously, shanghai tang on runways? galliano can pull off novelty.. and thats a far and beyond comparison that flatters ST already..

susie bubble, tell your cousin to go back and -save- them from all their kitschiness!

 

[susie_bubble]

^Hehe...she was working in HK for a while...but like me...she's a London girl at heart.

 

[vanishing]

haoshcn What I think exactly! The items on Shanghaitang.com are not so "proper" and mix&match well with western stuff~~~ Honestly I don't like the images there at all. The collection looks so weird and ridiculous~~~ The president is too optimistic about the sales in mainland china!! At least shanghainese won't be into their stuff. Just have a look at the people on the streets, shops, offices, or parties, only few persons would love to dress like that and most of them are foreigners.

and about chinese designers, not sure and still expect... anyway we will see~

 

[susie_bubble]

Got some more pics related to Elizabeth Lau (she did not tell me to plug them by the way...I'm just doing some free publicity!)

These are some pics from the Profile 2004 fashion awards where she won and got her clothes exhibited at House of Fraser as the prize.

My cousin accepting the award!

Pics from lffonline.com

She used to to made to fit qi pao using western fabrics as well. She used tweeds, French silks and other really lovely fabrics:

Pic from surrart.ac.uk

Her stall at the Profile exhibiton:

Pic from fashioncapital.co.uk

 

[Pinky*]

I think its quite funny when tourists are walking around with their souvenir ancient dress items.. maybe they think its cute to 'fit in' or are they really that clueless? hey those are usually urban metropolis they visit..

I'd probably get smacked if I were walking the streets of Paris wearing a renaissance costume..

 

[Lena]

I think its quite funny when tourists are walking around with their souvenir ancient dress items.. maybe they think its cute to 'fit in' or are they really that clueless? hey those are usually urban metropolis they visit..

I'd probably get smacked if I were walking the streets of Paris wearing a renaissance costume..

very good point Pinky, this thread is getting real interesting, all things China seem to be attracting much interest at the moment

How do you guys feel about the western-isation of Chinese lifestyle? seems luxe has both eyes on Chinese market at the moment ?

 

[susie_bubble]

Well.....designer powerhouses (LV, Gucci, Prada) would be stupid not to target this market. And this so called 'nouveau riche' are reciprocating in everyway...they are extremely eager to own a bit of luxury.
Actually, it's not even just rich Chinese people who are clamouring for luxury accessories and handbags, poorer Chinese girls will happily waste a months' wages to buy a handbag.

I feel Chinese people in general are approaching fashion in the wrong way. They seem to materialise and water down the art of fashion and ignore what it means to have personal style. To them it is the means of showing status and power through a material object.

 

[susie_bubble]

Sorry to bombard, but more Elizabeth Lau Pics:
From S/S 04

From A/W04

From S/S05

Press in A/W05

Her designs aren't groundbreaking nor super unique but they are wearable and rather fun.

All pics from elizabethlau.com

 

[Pinky*]

westernisation is always quite unfortunate, looking from a historical perspective that is. It was inevitable.. e.g the way china conducted her affairs with arrogance even in the face of the opium wars.. look at the incredible losses the world suffers today from the loss of aztec, mayan, and incan knowledge.. it has certainly crippled south america..

economists predict china has potential to become more powerful than the US in around 10 years.. so.. investors are going to want to milk her for all shes worth while they can, no?

fashionwise, however, it is a huge disadvantage I think. Just as how western/cowboy or elizabethan looks can be modernized, chinese dress can not.. why? because of the huge gap in fashion identity when china westernized so quickly.. theres a big chunk of fashion history missing. How could you develop your own cultures style when political forces were racing to adopt another? and to add to that, there are just too many provinces with their own regional style, history, culinary schools, languages.. china is just tooooo big

 

[Pinky*]

susie bubble - it happens when any country experiences sudden economic growth.. look at russia's nouveau riche.. dubai.. logo-a-gogo mania. They are moving on though. we just have to wait until they get over expressing their wealth and distinguishing themselves.. so its not simply a problem with the chinese people.

When china does develop her fashion sense though, I suspect it will be much like the US. they are not that different if you think about it, the arrogance, stubborness, but power to dominate.. the gap btw the poor and rich is getting bigger and bigger.. most likely what will result from this is regional dress styles like NY style, LA style, etc..

 

[Lena]

exactly what i was imagining i'd hear from you pinky you are right

susie b. thanks for the pics, cool style from miss lau

 

[susie_bubble]

^We can only wait and see.........

Right now, it's just cringe-inducing when I go to Selfridges and gaggles of mainland tourists are buying handbags like they're buying groceries.

 

[Pinky*]

thanks lena

susie - yes yes! i looove it when i see throngs of logo bedecked mainlanders.. it used to bother me but then i'll have a secret (non-mean) giggle when i think about how they'll look back and cringe the way we do when you look back at prom photos..

I think it'll be interesting to see how different nouveau riche evolutionize from logo-mania into their own style.. how does one find ones own style after simply identifying with a letter or monogram?

 

[vanishing]

I think its quite funny when tourists are walking around with their souvenir ancient dress items.. maybe they think its cute to 'fit in' or are they really that clueless? hey those are usually urban metropolis they visit..

I'd probably get smacked if I were walking the streets of Paris wearing a renaissance costume..

so apparently, shanghai tang definitely can't get big sales in mainland China if they still keep their style!

 

[Alienmonk]

maybe you are right