Oh my God, I tried not to be biased because it's the first collection by Hearst for the brand, but I can't. Gabriela has the mindset of a customer, not a designer. She literally used the strongest Natacha's prints for the ugliest pieces in this show. I have to say that's an achievement to destroy their appeal, the radiophonic prints from FW18 collection are incredibly strong and beautiful in a striking, modern way. Moreover, Gabriela really thinks that she'll run away with those awful pieces and accessories just because she's into sustainability.
As a whole, this collection feels completely irrelevant. It's like a mix of her dull aesthetic and watered-down Loewe. Fun fact: in one video she's talking about careful picking the colour palette for the cashmere pieces. At the same time, they look like striped bathroom rugs from the '90s. The accessories, the reason why she was hired, are horrible. I get that she took some repurposed pieces, but it's not enough to create someting truly desirable.
My biggest problem with this collection is that Gabriela doesn't understand the brand she's been working for. Chloé is about certain attitude yet Hearst made the same clothes as she would produce for her eponymus brand and they have literally no attitude at all. That's not a good sign. It shows how limited she is as a designer.