Okk, Chemena is moving on (for the most part) from the saccharine laciness, cheers to that! It's obviously still quite girly, but more concise and leaning slightly into '80s vamp dressing rather than '70s boxo luxe, which is a good thing considering she milked that era from her debut on and now left brands from Etro to Balmain to offer it for next spring.
Can't say I'm obsessed with her flower prints, even though their colors together with those rounded-shoulder looks remind me a bit of Ghesquière's S/S 2008 Balenciaga collection. The powder-hued section was more like it imo, even though the large trenchcoats didn't really work with everything underneath - or even on their own sometimes; the pale blue one that made the model look as if she was stuck in a small iceberg with bluish lilac lips to boot was probably the worst look of the collection.
What I liked the best was the vibe of a convenient little summer in France certain elements of the show conveyed: the très Vogue Paris appearance of beauties like Enikő Mihalik and Bette Franke, the comparably pared-back styling, the pretty earrings and chic kitten heels most of the models wore (thankfully no wedges or "summer boots" this time) and the sight of a beautiful girl in a sexy cut-out tank top/swimsuit? and a lightly draped skirt. I'd build on that, rather than trying to push extra wide shoulders and multi-tiered dresses.