Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 2005 Paris

[brian]

The OP didn't say anything about stealing, but I think the implication is there. It's set up as 'this Balenciaga came first, then Galliano did this Dior'. It might not be what the OP meant but that's how it comes across, to me at least. I mean, it's fine, everyone can have an opinion and if you two associate those two looks immediately, that's fine. But in almost every show thread on this board someone will dig up an old runway shot and post it, implying that the designer's work is somehow inauthentic.

My main point was, we are so overwhelmed with reference points in the 21st century that nothing is really new anymore and no contemporary designer owns the right to a method of styling or a boot or a dress. And it's just a little silly to go around pointing fingers like that.

If someone were to dig up an old Kaisik Wong sketch on a Balenciaga thread that is an EXACT copy, that would be different. But to say 'oh look McQueen is copying Galliano', I don't know. They may trawl the same fleamarket and follow the same trend forecasts, but I don't think they are concerned with each other's work in that way.

my sentiments exactly. thank you for saying all i wanted to say...

 

[Mr-Dale]

The OP didn't say anything about stealing, but I think the implication is there. It's set up as 'this Balenciaga came first, then Galliano did this Dior'. It might not be what the OP meant but that's how it comes across, to me at least. I mean, it's fine, everyone can have an opinion and if you two associate those two looks immediately, that's fine. But in almost every show thread on this board someone will dig up an old runway shot and post it, implying that the designer's work is somehow inauthentic.

My main point was, we are so overwhelmed with reference points in the 21st century that nothing is really new anymore and no contemporary designer owns the right to a method of styling or a boot or a dress. And it's just a little silly to go around pointing fingers like that.

If someone were to dig up an old Kaisik Wong sketch on a Balenciaga thread that is an EXACT copy, that would be different. But to say 'oh look McQueen is copying Galliano', I don't know. They may trawl the same fleamarket and follow the same trend forecasts, but I don't think they are concerned with each other's work in that way.

Sorry if it seemed like I was attacking in my original post. I wasn't. I was just pointing out a flawed idea that keeps getting reposted on these boards.

My sentiments exactly!

 

[Foxie-Pooh]

Gee, why do Dior always stir up so much contraversy...

 

[Mr-Dale]

Here's another review, or actually it's mine It's the first time ever I wrote a review in English and actually the first time in general I wrote a fashionreview. Please be honest about what you think of it, because this is what I would really love to make my carreer of and when its actually really bad but you give me pitty-praises that gives me false hope...Thanks for reading!

What A Quote Can’t Do

Last monday the most anticipated week of fashion began for spring-summer 2005 and what a beginning it was. Leaving his old setting and music behind, John Galliano came with a renaissance of Christian Dior haute couture. Not only did the theatrical catwalk, lighting and beats leave the Dior tent at least for this season, the theatricality in the couture pieces was heavily scaled down too. Or at least in the first section of the show.


In the midst of Karen Mulder, Sofia Coppola and Marianne Faithfull - who were all seated in comfy chairs and relaxing sofas – paraded the incarnations of a Bob Dylan quote: ‘Andy Warhol is Napoleon in rags' something only the genious that John is could use as an inspiration for couture. The first few Jackie O look-a-likes were inspired by Edie Sedgwick, the infamous muse of mister Warhol. Stiff, whooly and colourfull jackets, coats and skirts floated by on the soft beats of the boring band that played. Accesoirised with crocodile leather boots and ‘Detective Bags’, bugeyed sunglasses and hats, these looks were the most obvious references to this quote. With a purple coat, cut to make any woman with big bucks look exquisitly fantastic, as the highlight of this Sedgwick interpretation, this marked a collection that will most likely echo its way through upcoming fall-winter ready-to-wear collections. But on the other hand, the question rose: is this not a bit too much ready-to-wear instead of haute couture?

But as the corny voice of the singer stopped r*ping the show for a while and made place for a dreamy delight of violins, the wonderfull costume party we all know from John began once again. A crimson teaparty in Josephine Bonaparte’s garden was the next phase of the collection. Josephine, the once empress of France and wife of Napoleon – remember the quote? – was the second muse Galliano took inspiration of. The red, velvet fabrics were masterly embroiderd with hints of flowers and royal markings and cut to make the dresses, coats and hats look puffy.

This sense of volume came back in the third and last part of this high-fashion collection. Josephine remained, but the teaparty was now a royal ball and the violins were traded in for rockmusic and off-key notes exclaimed by the singer once again. Soft, white poofed up dresses, dolled up with cute make-up and royal accessoires in the hair and ears entered the Andy Warhol-inspired décor. The models wearing these flower-embroidered and rhinestone-beaded dresses made these looks resemble elfs more than Josephine – which is not a bad thing. As the band continued, beautifull white coats that were embroidered with blue flowery patterns graced the runway as well. With exquisit cutting, these coats were definetly the proof that the question I posed before was completely false: this was haute couture at its best. A vast sea of complicated construction and not to forget one of sheer beauty indulged the audience and probably too the people who see the pictures in magazines and on the internet later on. Galliano is once again stating his point: couture is not dead!
Nota bene: John, although the clothes were fabulous, perhaps next time you could rehire Jeremy Healy – your faithfull dj – and lose the band. And as we are at it, I hope that the runway we saw in previous shows and we are now custom with have not been thrown away already. Sigh, what a quote can’t do…

 

[Melody Nelson]

Sorry, but you just can't do that. You can't pick two looks that kinda seem similar and then imply that one designer stole the idea from the other. It happens all the time on this forum and it's just not that easy. People will be like 'oh well this Prada look reminds me of that Chanel look so Miuccia must be copying Karl'! Fashion is such a tangled web of references that no designer is really the owner of anything.

The balloon skirt, originally by Cristobal Balenciaga, is a huge influence in fashion right now. So it's very likely that both Nicolas and John are referencing it in their own ways. As for the coat you posted, yes they look similar but I doubt there's any correlation. They are both stiff mid-length coats that both have a point of reference in 60's couture. That's all.

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I didn't imply anything. Of course I know Nicolas didn't invent the "bulle" dress,christobal did. Only I did notice that since Nicolas reworked that shape,we've seens lots of bulle skirts and dresses on spring 2005 collections.

The first part is supposed to be inspired by Edie Sedgwick,yeah we can see it clearly with the black tight and stripe t-shirts.But the balloon forms made me think of what we see in fashion right now,whoever reintepreted it Ghesquiere or others.

 

[brian]

And as we are at it, I hope that the runway we saw in previous shows and we are now custom with have not been thrown away already.

someone's missing his dior drag queens already!

 

[Missoni~Heiress]

and people thought versace was bad

 

[princess_tess]

Wow... i love it... its so wearable but still has the risque feel to it... love it!

 

[*Addicted*]

some of those outfits were quite nice especially those black ones in the beggining... But the whole collection was just another NOTHING SPECIAL...

 

[Atelier]

But in almost every show thread on this board someone will dig up an old runway shot and post it, implying that the designer's work is somehow inauthentic.

My main point was, we are so overwhelmed with reference points in the 21st century that nothing is really new anymore and no contemporary designer owns the right to a method of styling or a boot or a dress. And it's just a little silly to go around pointing fingers like that.

I'm sure Melody Nelson wasn't implying stealing either but I'm glad metal-on-metal made this point. Often I say "Hey, didn't I see that somewhere?" and I don't meant to imply copying.

For example, that just happened to me when I saw the new Valentino Couture collection and thought Behnaz!

Behnaz Sarafpour
Fall 2004 Ready-to-Wear

Valentino Haute Couture
Spring 2005
http://www.***************/image/0125200510234340.jpg

Ideas are just bound to be used by different people.

 

[Mr-Dale]

In the end, it's all about the interpretation of those ideas by the designers I think...that's really different than copying...

 

[purplelucrezia]

Jewelry :

Is all that I can coherently say at present...

 

[Missoni~Heiress]

was there a new model in this collection with blonde hair?

 

[urd]

some of my favourite looks. I this collection

 

[Mr-Dale]

was there a new model in this collection with blonde hair?

There were lots of (relatively) new models in this show...are you looking for someone in particular?

 

[Missoni~Heiress]

yes i got told a friend of mine was in the show in paris grrrrr im such a jealous b**ch i want to find out if it was true

 

[softgrey]

i don't like the pieces of chandeliers stuck in those hairpieces...

i've seen it done remarklably well..
but this looks like some homemade drag queen costume...
like what the guys from heatherette used to wear out to clubs in nyc in the 80's...
very amateurish...

i think that could have been executed so much better...
it doesn't look like lovely jewels embedded in the hair...
it just looks like they stuck a chandelier on their heads... imo...

 

[Mr-Dale]

yes i got told a friend of mine was in the show in paris grrrrr im such a jealous b**ch i want to find out if it was true

Whats her name?

 

[Missoni~Heiress]

Amanda

 

[Mr-Dale]

Amanda

There was no Amanda in it...sorry