Commercialising... Chalayan

Lena

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well, if you ask me.. it was about time
Hussein Chalayn needed to relax a bit,
take it easy and lower his prices
from the few looks posted his brand new 'low price' line
seems quite modern, less 'stressed' than usual
but pretentious as always, enjoy the silly-ness of
this recent statements :P

Chalayan to Launch Casual Line

By Luisa Zargani

MILAN — Designer Hussein Chalayan, after a four-year collaboration with Asprey, is focusing on his own brand.

In addition to the opening of his first store in Tokyo in April, the designer has confirmed the launch of a new casual women’s line called Chalayan, set to bow for spring-summer 2005 and produced and distributed by Italian manufacturer Gibò Co. SpA.

Chalayan said in an interview that he wants to expand his customer base, as the new line will be priced 40 percent lower than his signature collection. “This is a line in itself, with its own identity, driven by seasonal concepts,” he said. “With it, I address issues I feel are important.”

For spring-summer 2005, Chalayan was inspired by the animal world and the extinction of some species. He created jersey T-shirts with a collage of animals, among which Chalayan inserted white silhouettes shaped to represent extinct animals. The T-shirts may be worn with vests or shirts depicting a crisscross of nets used to capture animals.

Chalayan believes each garment is potentially a future piece of archeology, similar to a vase or a pot recovered from :rolleyes: centuries ago. For this reason, close to the label tag, he has inserted another label where the owner of the item can leave a mark and sign his or her :rolleyes: :rolleyes: name. “This way, you sort of give life to a garment,” he said.

As for the timing of the new line, the designer said there is room for a younger and more casual line. “Fashion today is either gravitating toward very affordable or very expensive clothes, but there is not much in between,” he said, describing the collection as a blend of sportswear and luxurious looks. Chalayan said this line allows him to channel ideas that “don’t fit” into his signature line. “I feel unrestricted and free to experiment,” he said.
Franco Pené, chairman of Gibò, which also produces the designer’s signature line, said, “This is a more commercial collection, where the designer can freely express his creativity. It is in line with his tastes and inspiration, and it is absolutely not a bridge line with poorer materials.”

Although Pené said that U.S. business has picked up, citing 75 percent sales growth of the company’s resort collections this season, he described this moment as generally “difficult” and said that fashion companies must constantly generate new ideas and find new ways to stimulate consumers.

In addition to its own Gibò line and Chalayan’s lines, the company produces and distributes ready-to-wear collections for Viktor & Rolf, Antonio Berardi, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and Paul Smith, among others. Gibò also makes the new men’s line for John Galliano, launched for spring 2004.

Pené said he plans to reach 200 points of sale in the first season. Wholesale prices in Europe range from :shock: $24 to $174.

For spring-summer 2005, the collection includes mini pouf skirts in finely pleated muslin, asymmetrically cut denim jackets and featherlight tank top dresses. The color palette ranges from white, nude, gray and brown to bright pink, green and yellow. Chalayan enjoys playing with juxtapositions of colors and materials, and with clothes that can be multifunctional: A short skirt unfolds into a longer dress; skirts looks like the bottom part of a shirt, and pants come with buttons on the sides so they can be discretionally turned into low- or high-rise pants.

article and photos from wwd :flower:
 
Whoa! A "cheap n chic" line that's actually cheap and chic!!!!
Kudos to Chalayan! OH ... and WHEN ARE YOU GONNA DO THE SAME THING ON MENSWEAR, Hussein?
 
thanks lena...i didn't find it particularly pretentious...i think it's nice that he's trying to draw attention to the global issue of extinction... makes me think of katherine hamnett...

also...
it's an interesting idea to have the owner of the garment make a mark on it...because they do so figuratively,..so why not physically?...as people shop resale stores and use ebay...a garment may have several owners in its lifetime...i like the idea that each wearer leaves a mark...

wouldn't it be great to do that with a sample collection...have each model who wears a garment write her name and where she wore it...then exhibit the pieces or make a book of photographs at the end of the season... i think that would be an interesting anthropological study...

i bet if i was hedi slimane...i could get that book published...LOL...with an accompanying exhibit...LOL...
 
the personal tag idea is still alive and kicking with traditional english 'college' labels, there is a name tag even at the wool scarves.
as for the " Chalayan believes each garment is potentially a future piece of archeology, similar to a vase or a pot recovered from centuries ago" excuses, but i really find this pretentious and ridiculous...

please dont get me wrong, i approve of the cheaper Chalayan pricing,
it's great value for money, but it does make me wonder on the
huge price gap with his 'prestige' line.
If you can design and retail a T-shirt for $24 then how comes in your 'main' line same job costs $300+ ???

the only explanation could be that his new line may be mass produced
under contract in China or elsewhere, to cut down production/material costs. It may be affordable but at this price how good will quality stand?

in anycase, good luck for Chalayan.
and yes, i certainly dont believe modern garments are future pieces of archeology, they mostly end up wasted before their time.

much more for the 'most' affordable lines
 
I'm excited to see these in stores....though I won't here of course...love the first skirt though.
 
Originally posted by Lena@Aug 4 2004, 01:42 AM
the personal tag idea is still alive and kicking with traditional english 'college' labels, there is a name tag even at the wool scarves.
as for the " Chalayan believes each garment is potentially a future piece of archeology, similar to a vase or a pot recovered from centuries ago" excuses, but i really find this pretentious and ridiculous...



in anycase, good luck for Chalayan.
and yes, i certainly dont believe modern garments are future pieces of archeology, they mostly end up wasted before their time.

much more for the 'most' affordable lines
[snapback]321362[/snapback]​

have you seen that more and more contemporary artists are using clothing in their work?...i just read about a young artist who was commissioned to do a piece in the lobby of the museum of modern art here in nyc...she asked the museum staff to donatet clothes and did an istallation with them...then she took the leftover pieces and cut them up making a sort of collage...

i know tracy emin in london is famous for making quilts that symbolise whatever she's trying to explore...

the truth is that clothing will actually disintegrate over time...so it is unlikely to last long enough to become as meaningful as a pot that is uncovered from centuries ago...

however-having just seen the dangerous liasons exhibit at the metropolitan museum of art...it does tell you alot about the people from the 1600-1700 when you see the clothing...certain dresses denoted your class or social status...and they were all VERY small...all the men's and women's clothing looked as though it was miniature...but that is because people were much smaller...i do think you can find out a good deal about a culture by studying their clothing...

maybe it's a lofty idea...but i think it's a nice one...i think it's more idealistic than pretentious...but maybe that just because i'd like to believe that there are still idealists working in fashion...
 
Originally posted by softgrey@Aug 4 2004, 09:29 AM
have you seen that more and more contemporary artists are using clothing in their work?...i just read about a young artist who was commissioned to do a piece in the lobby of the museum of modern art here in nyc...she asked the museum staff to donatet clothes and did an istallation with them...then she took the leftover pieces and cut them up making a sort of collage...

i know tracy emin in london is famous for making quilts that symbolise whatever she's trying to explore...

the truth is that clothing will actually disintegrate over time...so it is unlikely to last long enough to become as meaningful as a pot that is uncovered from centuries ago...

however-having just seen the dangerous liasons exhibit at the metropolitan museum of art...it does tell you alot about the people from the 1600-1700 when you see the clothing...certain dresses denoted your class or social status...and they were all VERY small...all the men's and women's clothing looked as though it was miniature...but that is because people were much smaller...i do think you can find out a good deal about a culture by studying their clothing...

maybe it's a lofty idea...but i think it's a nice one...i think it's more idealistic than pretentious...but maybe that just because i'd like to believe that there are still idealists working in fashion...
[snapback]321422[/snapback]​

I agree. I've read several interview with Husseyn, and he always struck me as romantic, not pretensious. This day and age it is so easy to confuse the two.
 
i'm a diehard romantic... which is kind of hard sometimes... :rolleyes: :flower:
 
I will buy this stuff for sure. Does anyone else think the ads look Prada-ish?
 
Originally posted by luvkoshi@Aug 4 2004, 08:39 PM
I will buy this stuff for sure. Does anyone else think the ads look Prada-ish?
[snapback]321566[/snapback]​

here, here i can see that

*yes softgrey, artists are using cloth in their work,
if chalayan wants to create 'potentially a future piece of archeology,
similar to a vase or a pot recovered from centuries ago'
i kindly advice him to enter a pottery class, it will eventually get him there.
truth i'm not his biggest fan, maybe just becuase i've been in one of his recent shows .. to conceptual for my taste, simplify, simplify :wink:
 
:shock: i cannot wait to see more. sounds like a good idea!( to me.)

thanks, lena
 
thank you Lena
I hope he will never fall an easy prey to ONWARD Group.

ultramarine, I hear he is to start its mens line from A/W 05-06
 
I can't wait to see how this turns out. Doesn't look too bad.

btw,I'd have to agree with Lena on this one. He does indeed seem to compare himself way too much to that of an artist....too conceptual and too intellectualized. Too cold. But maybe that's changing with this new venture?? I hope so.
 
I hope he does extremely well and other deisigners catch on.
 
i can't wait to see how this turns out.
i love hussein's designs...his fall 2004 collection was especially wonderful
 
the clothes look good, nice to see moderate priced clothes

i'm sick of comersialization, but what can you do?
 
the stuff has arrived over here. in stores now!

white, khaki

photo4.jpg
 
photo1.jpg





coat: beige, white, pink, black

photo3.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
top: yellow, white, pink, green, black
pants: khaki, black

photo2.jpg
 
I love the pictures and the first white dress!
Thanks for posting :smile:
 

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