Dario Vitale - Designer

[TianCouture]

Miuccia looks so chic in that photo. Why can't Prada collections be like this?

Frankly, she looks like a clown. Which is kind of on brand.

 

[PDFSD]

Frankly, she looks like a clown. Which is kind of on brand.

how can she look (dress) like a clown when she literally has very classic old fashioned things on even her jewelry is antique. evn the coat as cape sleeves is not a new invention if you know costume history .

 

[Snejana Onopka]

Prefall 2015 which was an exercise on nylon was particularly great.

off topic... kinda embarrassed to admit that this collection made me chop my hair to a modcut a la liam gallagher and thrift 60s style coats lol

 

[visvim2001]

Has the brand that much of an aura ? To interest Hedi I mean ?

My perception was that is was a decaying brand, at least for the last 15 years, I have never bought into the cult of Donatella, not as a personality nor as a designer, she had terrible shows (La vacanza 2023) and imho Versace was the top of a very small pyramid, with Cavalli, Blumarine and Plein somewhere at the base.
The perfume licence agreement with EuroItalia is trash, the Versace perfumes are the cheapest of the cheapest at the duty free.

Loud, blinged out luxury is actually quite a crowded space. Which is something that I’ve come to realise only recently, walking around high street and fancy stores…

Not to say that these brands are carbon copies of each other, but Versace directly competes with D&G and Balmain/Gucci/Casablanca to a lesser extent in ostentatious RTW, and perhaps even Plein/Dsquared/Zanotti in the accessories category and general taste level. Stefano Ricci also puts out some shocking stuff even though there’s probably not a lot of customer overlap. Sales are declining because there’s only so many people chasing such an aesthetic and while a household name, ‘decaying’ is certainly the right word for Versace’s influence.

You know which demographic the house currently appeals to but I’m not gonna name them lol.

 

[yslforever]

But the enshittiffication has already started :


As a reminder the total cost of a seamstress (wage, social contributions, other manufacturing plant cost ) is around 38€/hour in France and 27€ in Italy but it’s already too damn high for Prada Group with 950 € basic jeans and 1400€ polo shirts at 1400. And their 2€ by meter nylon.

Plus there is this ongoing investigation on Chinese slaves in their Prato subcontractors.

They reached the point where Inditex has more traceability than them.

I hope the new CD will have a little bit of ethics or a hint of concern for the quality of the products under his name.
But as far as I concerned, I don’t care and will ignore the group and their brands.

 

[Deneuve]

Disgusting on so many levels.

 

[carla56]

So yesterday Bertelli during a meeting with all the versace staff told that the CD has already been chosen but it’s still in another brand… so for me we can reduce the duel to Pieter-Anthony… I would love anthony but I think it’s gonna be Pieter… don’t know what to expect…

 

[PDFSD]

But the enshittiffication has already started :


As a reminder the total cost of a seamstress (wage, social contributions, other manufacturing plant cost ) is around 38€/hour in France and 27€ in Italy but it’s already too damn high for Prada Group with 950 € basic jeans and 1400€ polo shirts at 1400. And their 2€ by meter nylon.

Plus there is this ongoing investigation on Chinese slaves in their Prato subcontractors.

They reached the point where Inditex has more traceability than them.

I hope the new CD will have a little bit of ethics or a hint of concern for the quality of the products under his name.
But as far as I concerned, I don’t care and will ignore the group and their brands.

Capri Versace had decided to terminate its licensing relationship with Swinger as early as October 2024,
when the brand decided to shut down its second line, Versace Jeans Couture,
thus before the start of negotiations between Capri Holdings and the Prada Group for the acquisition of the brand.
this has nothing to do with prada as capri closed the contract with Swinger already before being sold to prada.
Swinger produced Versace Jeans Couture and was its biggest client

 

[Squizree]

I WANNA feel bad for Dario. He just wanted one good collection but basically came on for one season just to be our personal jester and we clowned him good.

At the very least I can appreciate his novel approach to Versace. THAT we need more of.

 

[Avonlea]

So it will probably be Mulier. The paycheck must be huge.

 

[Lola701]

It will be Pieter then.
RAF’s power at Prada on full display. Hopefully Alaia will be able to bounce back. For me there are quite a few designers that could do Alaia greatly: From Maximilian Davis to Riccardo to Alexandre Vauthier. Even the Standing Ground guy.
God…Even Daniel Lee would be great at Alaia. He is fabulous with knitwear and outerwear.

They needed someone who would have a great sense of authority in menswear. And sorry but Anthony doesn’t have it.

I went to the YSL store this week. The menswear is quite uneventful and short in proposition despite the fact that it’s well edited. Celine is far more superior for example.

How long they will wait for Mulier then? And what will be the future of Versace for the next few seasons?
Are they going to spend extra cash to get him out of his Non-compete?

 

[Squizree]

I dunno about y'all, but I've NEVER seen VJC outside of Macy's and maybe Nordstrom. And it's always so cheap and tragic.

 

[carla56]

It will be Pieter then.
RAF’s power at Prada on full display. Hopefully Alaia will be able to bounce back. For me there are quite a few designers that could do Alaia greatly: From Maximilian Davis to Riccardo to Alexandre Vauthier. Even the Standing Ground guy.
God…Even Daniel Lee would be great at Alaia. He is fabulous with knitwear and outerwear.

They needed someone who would have a great sense of authority in menswear. And sorry but Anthony doesn’t have it.

I went to the YSL store this week. The menswear is quite uneventful and short in proposition despite the fact that it’s well edited. Celine is far more superior for example.

How long they will wait for Mulier then? And what will be the future of Versace for the next few seasons?
Are they going to spend extra cash to get him out of his Non-compete?

Well Anthony has just been nominated co-chair for next Met with Zoe Kravitz, so I don't think it's gonna be him. I would have loved him at Versace and Vauthier at YSL. But now I really hope he could do Alaia, I miss him! I can't see Pieter at Versace btw... I don't see him using prints and colors... don't know!

 

[Lola701]

Well Anthony has just been nominated co-chair for next Met with Zoe Kravitz, so I don't think it's gonna be him. I would have loved him at Versace and Vauthier at YSL. But now I really hope he could do Alaia, I miss him! I can't see Pieter at Versace btw... I don't see him using prints and colors... don't know!

Calvin Klein and Dior were quite colorful and so was the menswear at RAF at some point.
And I think there’s enough archives at Versace to explore.

Alaia was never really colorful. It’s very Parisian, under Azzedine, there were few collections that were that colorful.

I don’t think Versace would be a challenge for Pieter. Maybe the scale because it’s much much bigger than Alaia and in terms of creative direction, he will have to expand his vision to something he is quite far from Culturally.

For me Versace is a bit like Tom Ford pre-Haider. It needs to be kind of serious again. It needs a sense of rigor but this time to really elevate the perception of the brand.

When Donatella needed Versace to regain some kind of fashion credibility, she did serious collections. From SS2007 to SS2011, there was a sense of rigor and authority.

They needs to stop chasing a cultural/viral moment.

And Anthony said that he is very happy at Saint Laurent. You know he is doing his cinema thing. It’s something that I don’t think Prada would fund…during a whole overhaul of a house.

 

[PDFSD]

It will be Pieter then.
RAF’s power at Prada on full display. Hopefully Alaia will be able to bounce back. For me there are quite a few designers that could do Alaia greatly: From Maximilian Davis to Riccardo to Alexandre Vauthier. Even the Standing Ground guy.
God…Even Daniel Lee would be great at Alaia. He is fabulous with knitwear and outerwear.

They needed someone who would have a great sense of authority in menswear. And sorry but Anthony doesn’t have it.

I went to the YSL store this week. The menswear is quite uneventful and short in proposition despite the fact that it’s well edited. Celine is far more superior for example.

How long they will wait for Mulier then? And what will be the future of Versace for the next few seasons?
Are they going to spend extra cash to get him out of his Non-compete?

Your giving Raf having power to much credit. lol

Its about who is out there that can be mentally and taste wise aligned, Pieter is basically a extension of Raf.
Even if they want Versace to stay sexy they don't want it to be in trashy hands , Pieter is the closest thing out there that has this duality of thinking and doing sexy things (i am not a fan of what he did to Alaia conceptually/arrogantly but branding wise i get it ).

ALAIA is trendy like Miu Miu they want Versace to be at that level clever but hot .

 

[PDFSD]

Calvin Klein and Dior were quite colorful and so was the menswear at RAF at some point.
And I think there’s enough archives at Versace to explore.

Alaia was never really colorful. It’s very Parisian, under Azzedine, there were few collections that were that colorful.

I don’t think Versace would be a challenge for Pieter. Maybe the scale because it’s much much bigger than Alaia and in terms of creative direction, he will have to expand his vision to something he is quite far from Culturally.

For me Versace is a bit like Tom Ford pre-Haider. It needs to be kind of serious again. It needs a sense of rigor but this time to really elevate the perception of the brand.

When Donatella needed Versace to regain some kind of fashion credibility, she did serious collections. From SS2007 to SS2011, there was a sense of rigor and authority.

They needs to stop chasing a cultural/viral moment.

And Anthony said that he is very happy at Saint Laurent. You know he is doing his cinema thing. It’s something that I don’t think Prada would fund…during a whole overhaul of a house.

Anthony i don't see him being someone that Miuccia Prada ever respects or likes no matter how much movies he likes and miuccia is also a big italian cinema & intelligent movie´s person.

not her type of gay. if so hell froze over

 

[style_expert]

Where did the Anthony rumor even come from? I don’t think Kering can afford another house in disarray, so they would go to great lengths to keep him there with his silly cinema projects. I agree with PDFDS, I don’t think the Pradas are impressed by Anthony in any way (and neither am I).

Pieter’s contract at Alaia started in February 2021, so February 2026 would be a logical end date.
I’m not his biggest fan, but what he accomplished at Alaïa from a commercial point of view is impressive. And given how cliquey Prada is, based on everything we’ve recently heard and know, it does make sense.

Also, thank you Carla for the intel!