Dilara Findikoglu F/W 2024.25 London

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[perhydrol]

Basically, this show is McQueen, Westwood and Galliano's Margiela ordered on Temu. It's such a mystery that this brand is still operating somehow, but I don't really think it's gonna survive next five years.

 

[gallianostan]

f*cking outrageous. i wanna say harsher things but i'll get modded. this is borderline offensive

edit: oh wow even down to the fake newspaper print? this creature needs to be sectioned

 

[jeanclaude]

The references here are so obvious and "in your face" that it is embarrassing. Yeah, Dilara, we get you like Galliano and McQueen very much; but no, you can´t pretend to be like them...

Also...why is she looking like an eastern Europe p*rn actress at the end??

 

[AnaD]

That's just plain ugly. You can see her entire "thought process" (reference board) throughout. Very cheap looking and sloppily done.

 

[Scotty]

I actually don’t mind that she copies. The problem is that it’s all over the place. How about copy one element and build around it?

 

[Cocteau Stone]

A huge mish mash of everything that the collection becomes really unctuous. There’s no breather looks to help settle the eyes.

I’d be curious to know if a lot of these looks were also from last season when she couldn’t show. It’s notably a larger collection for the likes of her and could be why the show is such visual assault.

 

[GoldenPetals]

It wants to be McQueen so badly, it's almost endearing. It's too literal, presumably because this designer does not have an original vision yet? What's her story?

 

[Cocteau Stone]

^ it’s funny because Dal Chodha on SHOWStudio mused that when it came to criticising Harris Reed, it’s too easy and there’s no enjoyment or real criticism happening with it because it’s that pointless when it’s so obvious.

That can extend to so many of the London designers because there’s so many that have no taste of their own. Just siphoned from designers of the past to give themselves credibility. The irony of all this is that Dal Chodha works at CSM, so really they’re also part of the problem. The bubble of “Cool Britannia” has created such an echo chamber that many of them are blind to their own hypocrisy all for the sake of British pride and creativity.

 

[GoldenPetals]

That's so interesting. I always thought LFW would eventually bounce back but it's fallen even lower. I wish these designers would stop worrying about being "cool" and focus on strong tailoring and enduring silhouettes.

 

[gallianostan]

and if you are genuinely inspired by the same sensibilities in lee or john or vivienne's work, which is fine, at least execute it well and give it an interesting, original spin. this is just lazy and ugly as f*ck

 

[nonfatgoddess]

Literally 'L'enfant Terrible'

 

[Snejana Onopka]

if i were a rich party girl id love to wear looks 18, 24, 31 and 33 BUT since im a chronically bitter homosexual i cant understand the purpose of dilara's clothes besides being worn by try hard celebrities like d*ja and h*rinef. its sooo unaccomplished in every aspect; she tries to give glamour it looks cheap, she tries to give deconstructed it looks shoddy, she tries to give dark goth vibes it looks like cw's riverdale idea of gothic

she's always recycling the same stuff, her moodboard must be SO BORING, the same dior ss/hc 06 pictures sprinkled with some """dark""" victorian references she found on pinterest lol. @/dilara cmon sis just open up baudot's la mode du siècle, theres plenty of desigers for you to copy besides lee and galliano

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I think she’s veering away from her heavy handed usual McQueen/Galliano/Westwood/Theyskens references and riffing and going into the AF Vandevorst/Aganovich/Plein Sud route (which some take on from the former admittedly) which is in direct reference to what Gen Z is adamantly obsessed with as of late purely from an aesthetic perspective.

Those designers/brands have been everywhere on the mood boards at the moment. Especially Plein Sud and Vandevorst. And I can see herself being part of that social media obsession as well as having her friends and team being in on it too.

 

[LadyJunon]

I think she’s veering away from her heavy handed usual McQueen/Galliano/Westwood/Theyskens references and riffing and going into the AF Vandevorst/Aganovich/Plein Sud route (which some take on from the former admittedly) which is in direct reference to what Gen Z is adamantly obsessed with as of late purely from an aesthetic perspective.

Those designers/brands have been everywhere on the mood boards at the moment. Especially Plein Sud and Vandevorst. And I can see herself being part of that social media obsession as well as having her friends and team being in on it too.

I think that they're less obsessed with the aesthetics of those 90s/00s designers and more obsessed with the image of being that tortured free-spirited creative maverick that fashion critics worship.

That's why everything they do, from their shows to their social media campaigns, is made to be so big, loud and intrusive. It's not genuine.

 

[gallianostan]

she's always recycling the same stuff, her moodboard must be SO BORING, the same dior ss/hc 06 pictures sprinkled with some """dark""" victorian references she found on pinterest lol.

oh she has been mining that specific french revolution collection for YEARS, it's actually f*cking shameful. i find it hilarious how she babbles constantly about being a proud turkish designer and how she's massively inspired by turkish culture but like sis... all your clothes are inspired by historical french/english bourgeois costume lol. where's the turkish/eastern influence? it's literally MIA. it's always either pre or post-revolutionary france or victorian gothicism gone sex kitten. who the f*ck are you trying to kid. so transparent she's not even trying to hide it. she once said galliano is the reason why she's even in fashion and you can reallyyyyyy tell

 

[w1zk1d]

i really like this designer but this pass at deconstruction was disappointing, just jackets and shirts tied around their waists (or gives the impression of this). i like the idea of suspending garments in a moment of action but the pieces they did this treatment to appeared particularly costumey. the feathers used looked very underwhelming and actually bad. i agree this collection is all over the place and left me wondering what the point was. there are kernels of great ideas here but it feels like they weren't given the space to thrive. hopefully some of these ideas can be worked over and made great in later collections. im sure they will!

 

[gallianostan]

"Even in times as precarious as these, one thing remains certain: a world built by the hands of men is destined for destruction by those very hands. I don't need to prove that to you. Turn on your television, scroll on your phone, and see for yourself the consequences of a reality constructed to bring a cruel patriarchal agenda to life. Architecture, politics, healthcare - even the most existentially essential infrastructures vindicate heteropatriarchal desires. If the only guaranteed outcomes of a collective existence conditioned by masculine power are violence, destruction and limitation, is that something that any of us should wish for?

This is a manifesto for a world order born of an unrelenting vortex of femme energy; a way of being and feeling that transcends the parochial strictures of conventional masculinity. For Autumn/Winter 2024, we bring a new world to life through a mass ritual, centring values of tenderness, sumptuousness and vulnerability. We unpick, interrogate and dispel the invented notions of borders, gender roles and time that today's patriarchy holds so dear. What we manifest here is a world created in the image of the divine feminine; an imagining of the world that I know can put ours to right."

those are the shownotes. kill me right the f*ck now. we're so doomed

 

[TerraVera]

oookay. between this and the show notes: where do we begin?

i'll put it out there: she is not intelligent, clever, nor skilled enough to create an original or refreshing collection challenging the status quo or conservative conventions on femininity and masculinity. it's too advance for her.

she is a proud member of the circle jerk social media echo chamber throwing out lofty, verbose word-vomit and proselytizing about feminism and inequality without really understanding what these ideologies mean in a structural, material sense. she has no sense of real history, only a superfluous cherry-picked, decontextualized awareness of such things.

people like her put on such a lame show, expounding on paragons they themselves fail to live up to and cannot articulate through their chosen art form. she simply can't do it. they have lost themselves in the swirling galliano-mcqueen-westwood myopia so much they don't know which way is up. it's opposite day everyday for these lost folks. it's perpetuating a lie until it becomes true, but there is still no truth, no authenticity in what they do or say. just a mimicry and a cry for help. there is no story, no anchor for this collection giving it substance and a purpose beyond looking like burn pile worthy rejects for that hulu harlot tv show about 18th century british prostitutes. (shoutout to samatha morton, she was great in it)

destroy the moodboard and start afresh. completely tabula rasa. her own culture has a wealth of inspiration - start there. lowkey pains me to say this but look at ulyana sergeenko on how to embrace culture in a tasteful sense. her women know themselves, exhibiting a sense of power without an over-reliance on sex to do so. otherwise, continue believing your full potential is this the mid-tier, back alley, drunk, rode-hard-put-away-wet dominatrix mess.