Looks like a pretty solid collection to me, more commercial but more cohesive too. I don't really see Theyskens, love him but he did not invent goth or corsets. He also creates with romanticism in mind and there's always something distant about him and the women he designs for, not very realistic (just look at his models). I don't think Dilara is a romantic, her work gravitates (sometimes with success or sometimes with no success at all) towards subversion, and she's more connected to women for obvious reasons because her models never lack confidence or look awkward inside the clothes.
The pants are my favorite part, especially the pair in the second look 🖤 . Pretty good to see her or any independent designer getting stronger in their own label, hope it stays that way and that she rejects any juicy offer to go corporate.