Dior Men Pre-Fall 2026 Paris | the Fashion Spot

Dior Men Pre-Fall 2026 Paris

It's effeminate, costume-y and downright ridiculous (The draped shorts with crest-print on the crotch) where it's meant to give a fashionable vibe and normcore-y where it's supposed to be commercial.

All in all, I don't think it wraps up as a whole, a way that speaks about a precise idea for a man to dress. Not what you expect from a designer held in esteem like JWA is from the industry…
 
This has been maybe the biggest plot twist in 2025 for me.
I thought that ending with the MGC/KJ era was without hesitation for the better.

And here we are, searching look by look for one piece that would be... worthy of Dior?

90s normcore, destroyed denim, ill-fitting proportions, tacky belts, horrendous prints.
I find this very bad.
 
Leftbank-lazing

The pieces start falling into place. Haute Heritage. The Cult of the New Banal. Still not completely convinced but the focus is getting sharper.

Look 30. The club tie reduced to a placket: sneaky-smart. And the sleazy leather bar jacket, look 23, hits the spot. Louche-luxe.
 
It started with something like that one NG LV collection, then lost itself into nothingness. Some stuff straight out of the Loewe outlet. He needs to sharpen his silhouette, and breathe new life into this bourgeois with a slight edge he's trying to do. For now the """edge""" is too present and feels like wrong styling. The full denim is atrocious -- and I'm saying that as someone who likes his work.
 
his insistence on feminizing menswear with a full on bell-shaped 18th century silhouette is both daring and endearing, the puffy khakis are instantly distinctive though I doubt any man would pull it off anytime soon. I do appreciate how light and flamboyant his Dior is, it feels uplifting.
 
It’s prefall so I don’t mind it being very commercial. It’s retail friendly and in a way, it will look even better in stores…
Maybe editing would have been better as a fashion proposition.

For me it lacks style. You can do basics and style it in a way that would inspire a man to achieve those looks.

I have seen the entire collection and there are only 2 looks that gives fashion or style.
You can do the preppy-jeune premier look in a fashion way, as Hedi showed in his last menswear collection for Celine.

I’m sure the quality is there but still.
 
Boring and not the least bit desirable and even more unappealing once you realize the price point Dior will command.

He keeps trying to do those jackets but they are totally costumey. I loved when NG did them at LV for spring 2018 with the running shorts and sneakers. Here, it looks like a fitting for Hamilton on Broadway.

The shorts are fine and a silhouette I gravitate to but Dior is painfully soulless. They should be ashamed to even offer merch rhat even John Elliot doesn’t even put in look books in 2025.

Pre fall is a cop out for this collection imo.
 
It’s prefall so I don’t mind it being very commercial. It’s retail friendly and in a way, it will look even better in stores…
Maybe editing would have been better as a fashion proposition.

For me it lacks style. You can do basics and style it in a way that would inspire a man to achieve those looks.

I have seen the entire collection and there are only 2 looks that gives fashion or style.
You can do the preppy-jeune premier look in a fashion way, as Hedi showed in his last menswear collection for Celine.

I’m sure the quality is there but still.

Oddly enough, even the more daring propositions of Hedi during his time at Dior Homme were commercial enough so that a dedicated fan would jump in immediately to buy a flamboyant piece - Largely due to the fact that they were always fully integrated into a clear idea for a man to dress, and in a way that could suggest a sense of casual energy, even when a look consisted of a hyper-formal garment. All of that alongside the perfect staples such as a bomber leather jacket, a pea coat, chesterfield or the signature Dior Homme jeans that enjoyed a particular cult status.

What does this observation tell us? The better menswear designers create a whole world, a point of view around their work, with a precise idea of style at the heart of it that an audience understands. JWA doesn't come from that school and his design approach is much more item-driven and also less engaged with creating an identity of a Dior man and woman that is grounded in a lifestyle or identifiable attitude.

I will just say at this point that it comes off as less assured, less connected with the outside world and by that degree also less likely to have an impact, particularly with a male audiences.
 
It’s somewhere in between elevated stage clothes and garments found on a preppy teenagers floor (smell included). It’s just so weird, maybe I don’t get it yet? And I get the story he’s going for but I just don’t see this as interesting fashion or a proposition to wear.

The shorts are embarrassing, but I actually find his reworked bar jacket really awful, the shape feels so clumsy and forced.
 
It’s somewhere in between elevated stage clothes and garments found on a preppy teenagers floor (smell included). It’s just so weird, maybe I don’t get it yet? And I get the story he’s going for but I just don’t see this as interesting fashion or a proposition to wear.

The shorts are embarrassing, but I actually find his reworked bar jacket really awful, the shape feels so clumsy and forced.
I don't get it either, mostly because it's way too juvenile, more preppy than Christian Dior Monsieur, but I am weirdly drawn to some shoes and separates... like the shirts with the tie below the buttons.
Some smarts things here and there.
And imho, the Bar jacket can't be declined in menswear, the OG was specifically designed with darts to emphasize rounded hips and breasts, so it's all very feminine in my mind and it's rather pointless (and honestly unflattering) to try to make it a mens staple.
 
the bar jacket is obviously conceived to be worn by women only. it accentuates the hips. the fact that JWA seems clueless about this hints at his fundamental misunderstanding of proportions. There are other designers like Yohji who play with masculine silhouettes with great sensitivity. This take is worse than sophomoric. It does not flatter 99% of men. Who wants to pay 5 grand to look like they’re carrying around a spare tyre on their lower belly is beyond me. You might as well try and put guys into a bustier.
 

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