Christian Dior Pre-Fall 2022 Paris

Galliano at Dior was always about selling a fantasy. Now I look around...and there is none!
God I miss his Dior so much.
Yes selling a fantasy…
I’m not nostalgic so I don’t miss his Dior…Particulary because in 2010, we already missed the Dior before the « paying hommage to the archives » phase he started in 2007.

What I miss at Dior is the idea of fantasy, serious clothes and real inventivity in design and understanding the spirit of Dior.

The shadow of Galliano will continue to live on at Dior as long as they continue to have designers like Raf Simons or MGC who instead of embracing the spirit of Dior, continue to fight against it. The former tried to over intellectualize and the latter tries to over-humanize.

The funny thing is that Galliano tried all those tactics at Dior. It was over commercial at one point, beyond tacky too but it was done with more panache or fun and a more subversive spirit.
 
She will have the same fate like Frida Giannini (who happens to be her friend) at Gucci.
You think so?
The departure of Frida has a lot of layers. In terms of sales she was stable.
MGC would leave either because of sales or strategy.
 
^IMO, she still work because they had problem to find someone who want work for Dior which is baby for Bernard Arnault. Also, she is convenient for board members due to, according to her - fashion should be only pratical and easy, never be dreamy. She told this on interview for Dior Catwalk book.
Marc was too expensive and he only wanted design four collection per year. If they really want find someone talented they have should find one commercial designer for resort/pre fall collection - lookbook presentation . RTW and HC for main designer.
Could Millenials really can afford this?
Among Millenials only accessories, especially handbags are hot. In fact, it's a brand for middle-aged women who can't afford or don't want to buy Chanel. In the campaigns they show very young models to rejuvenate the company and make these average/ordinary/boring clothes look a little better than on the women who actually buy them. You give the illusion that it is still a cool company full of youth.
 
The thing that bothers me so much with Maria's tenure is that everyone acts like she's the second coming of Jesus with her being Dior's first female CD and offering (disgustingly) pragmatic clothes that are considered revolutionary solely because they're comfortable.

No, I'm not joking. In an interview, she and her spawn have a whole discourse on how Maria's corsets (if we can even call them that) are comfortable and breathable.

It's the 2020s, comfortable isn't a unique selling point anymore.

And to add to that, she seems to have this weird feminist fetishist side to her work. Not just the slogan t-shirts, but actually inspirations. A huge chunk of her work (most ready to wear collections past SS'18) is referential of Marc Bohan's androgynous silhouettes (Courrèges and Quant did it first and better). The 60s were a huge leap for women's rights and the clothes represented that.

If she isn't giving us Feminism 101, she's either referencing herself from Valentino, Wiccan culture or Ancient Greek mythology (goddess fetishism).

Furthermore, she seems to desperatly avoid Dior himself, claiming that "it can't all be about him". But that's the point of bringing a old house into the new age. Otherwise, LVMH would change its name every time they hired a new CD.

Her work is weak. Other designers, male, female, working, retired or dead have offered much more compelling feminist ideologies through their work:

Gabrielle Chanel, Gaby Aghion and Phoebe Philo are about creating beautiful easy to wear clothing for a busy woman's life.

Elsa Schiaparelli, Miuccia Prada and Dries van Noten are about embracing your weird side and challenging good taste. Miuccia even goes out of her way to parody the dress codes from her childhood in 50s and 60s.

André Courrèges and Mary Quant designed their work on the principles of utopian societies and free, happy, dynamic women. Meanwhile, Yves Saint Laurent, Christopher Kane and Nensi Dojaka want to free women from their sexually repressive chains, allowing to live fearlessly.

Olivier Theyskens, Alexander McQueen and Nicolas Ghesquière wanted their women to look dangerous, putting them in armour like clothing, making them feel invincible and powerful.

At last, but the most relevant here. Christian Dior's colourful, frivolous dresses, equal parts nostalgic and optimistic, gave French women and French fashion a reason to hope for a better, brighter, happier future after the war had torn apart their homes, their families, their lives.

This, Maria, is true feminist fashion. Learn from this.

P.S. Sorry for going off on such a tangent about this woman, but her work and the pretentiousness around it infuriates more and more the longer she stays and I couldn't stay silent about it anymore.
 
Is she really trying to do anything tho? I don't take her for someone who is seriously trying to say something with her clothes at Dior. I just see her as someone that has a job of making expensive regular clothes for a company that rich people can go to for instead of Zara. Not trying to be snarky. Like someone said above, only pratical and easy, never dreamy. What she's doing is the perfect fit for the business. Arnault getting ahold of one person that has the mental capacity to churn out that many collections that actually sell every year? The formula is written out and finalized. We're in a more blatant corporate time in fashion and the people who buy it don't care. Doesn't her couture actually sell well? She's not going anywhere. Look elsewhere for inspiration
 
Unpopular take, but here I go:

After seeing the Dior exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum, I can honestly say the house had become a bit redundant. *GASP*, yes, I said it. Aside from the masterful tailoring, the exquisite fabric, and the mesmerizing dresses that were on display, I found myself wanting a bit more of an edge to be offered. An edge at Dior?- YES!!! After combing through the work of the man himself, Yves, GF, and Bohan, I noticed a real balanced approach that while beautiful, become overly focused on similar shapes, lines, and an overall narrative that failed to embrace both chance and change. Out of the many, many delightful and gorgeous pieces, there was one dress made in scuba that caught the light so perfectly I couldn’t take my eye off it- guess who made it, hint, it was not MB or GF , but rather MGC. And yes, for those who have not seen it, the entire show was full of gems from all eras, yet, in the case of this specific piece, seeing the cut and shine made it stand out amongst the other pieces in the show.


Outside of Galliano’s work, the soul of the house has been missing for quite sometime. The failed attempts to find a creative director that truly pushes the CD legacy into the modern have all but failed in the past, say, 23/24 years since JG departure. And while I find both MB and GF’s work modern, and Raf Simons tenure “ok” (even that wonderfully made documentary could not make that first couture collection special) I constantly found myself wanting an element of freshness has alluded the atelier since MGC’s arrival.

She is most definitely scrutinized for her references as @LadyJunon pointed out, and rightfully so, though, I often find myself looking forward to her collections for the sole reason of seeing SOMETHING new- whether that be in good or bad taste. How many times must we witness the princess seam being used? Or a “beautiful” floral print, bias cut dress, lady-like gown etc. etc. ettttcccccc. I understand the “BUT ITS DIOR!!!” Argument in its entirety, but must we constantly reflect on the past for respects sake? She has questionable references, a majority of her work is in-cohesive and regressive, but I can appreciate and love when someone goes out on an edge and challenges pre-conceived notions.

For this collection, were those stamped prints super tacky? Yes of course. Does she rely on tulle too much?Again I would agree. However, we have never seen a side of Dior that actually embraces the street and comprehends what it means to be a woman that lives a life outside of a socialite status. Again, I am in no way, shape, or form claiming to be a fan or her work overall, but as I mentioned previously, there is something refreshing about someone who explores an alternative route. If that means she fails, than so be it- though the way she is selling proves otherwise-though in the meantime it is both exciting and nerve wrecking to witness the house’s current state.

In short- I am intrigued.
 
The thing that bothers me so much with Maria's tenure is that everyone acts like she's the second coming of Jesus with her being Dior's first female CD and offering (disgustingly) pragmatic clothes that are considered revolutionary solely because they're comfortable.

No, I'm not joking. In an interview, she and her spawn have a whole discourse on how Maria's corsets (if we can even call them that) are comfortable and breathable.

It's the 2020s, comfortable isn't a unique selling point anymore.

And to add to that, she seems to have this weird feminist fetishist side to her work. Not just the slogan t-shirts, but actually inspirations. A huge chunk of her work (most ready to wear collections past SS'18) is referential of Marc Bohan's androgynous silhouettes (Courrèges and Quant did it first and better). The 60s were a huge leap for women's rights and the clothes represented that.

If she isn't giving us Feminism 101, she's either referencing herself from Valentino, Wiccan culture or Ancient Greek mythology (goddess fetishism).

Furthermore, she seems to desperatly avoid Dior himself, claiming that "it can't all be about him". But that's the point of bringing a old house into the new age. Otherwise, LVMH would change its name every time they hired a new CD.

Her work is weak. Other designers, male, female, working, retired or dead have offered much more compelling feminist ideologies through their work:

Gabrielle Chanel, Gaby Aghion and Phoebe Philo are about creating beautiful easy to wear clothing for a busy woman's life.

Elsa Schiaparelli, Miuccia Prada and Dries van Noten are about embracing your weird side and challenging good taste. Miuccia even goes out of her way to parody the dress codes from her childhood in 50s and 60s.

André Courrèges and Mary Quant designed their work on the principles of utopian societies and free, happy, dynamic women. Meanwhile, Yves Saint Laurent, Christopher Kane and Nensi Dojaka want to free women from their sexually repressive chains, allowing to live fearlessly.

Olivier Theyskens, Alexander McQueen and Nicolas Ghesquière wanted their women to look dangerous, putting them in armour like clothing, making them feel invincible and powerful.

At last, but the most relevant here. Christian Dior's colourful, frivolous dresses, equal parts nostalgic and optimistic, gave French women and French fashion a reason to hope for a better, brighter, happier future after the war had torn apart their homes, their families, their lives.

This, Maria, is true feminist fashion. Learn from this.

P.S. Sorry for going off on such a tangent about this woman, but her work and the pretentiousness around it infuriates more and more the longer she stays and I couldn't stay silent about it anymore.
In todays time, they might accused of misogyny
 
^^^ Sad, true and hilarious.

Unpopular take, but here I go:

After seeing the Dior exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum, I can honestly say the house had become a bit redundant. *GASP*, yes, I said it. Aside from the masterful tailoring, the exquisite fabric, and the mesmerizing dresses that were on display, I found myself wanting a bit more of an edge to be offered. An edge at Dior?- YES!!! After combing through the work of the man himself, Yves, GF, and Bohan, I noticed a real balanced approach that while beautiful, become overly focused on similar shapes, lines, and an overall narrative that failed to embrace both chance and change. Out of the many, many delightful and gorgeous pieces, there was one dress made in scuba that caught the light so perfectly I couldn’t take my eye off it- guess who made it, hint, it was not MB or GF , but rather MGC. And yes, for those who have not seen it, the entire show was full of gems from all eras, yet, in the case of this specific piece, seeing the cut and shine made it stand out amongst the other pieces in the show.


Outside of Galliano’s work, the soul of the house has been missing for quite sometime. The failed attempts to find a creative director that truly pushes the CD legacy into the modern have all but failed in the past, say, 23/24 years since JG departure. And while I find both MB and GF’s work modern, and Raf Simons tenure “ok” (even that wonderfully made documentary could not make that first couture collection special) I constantly found myself wanting an element of freshness has alluded the atelier since MGC’s arrival.

She is most definitely scrutinized for her references as @LadyJunon pointed out, and rightfully so, though, I often find myself looking forward to her collections for the sole reason of seeing SOMETHING new- whether that be in good or bad taste. How many times must we witness the princess seam being used? Or a “beautiful” floral print, bias cut dress, lady-like gown etc. etc. ettttcccccc. I understand the “BUT ITS DIOR!!!” Argument in its entirety, but must we constantly reflect on the past for respects sake? She has questionable references, a majority of her work is in-cohesive and regressive, but I can appreciate and love when someone goes out on an edge and challenges pre-conceived notions.

For this collection, were those stamped prints super tacky? Yes of course. Does she rely on tulle too much?Again I would agree. However, we have never seen a side of Dior that actually embraces the street and comprehends what it means to be a woman that lives a life outside of a socialite status. Again, I am in no way, shape, or form claiming to be a fan or her work overall, but as I mentioned previously, there is something refreshing about someone who explores an alternative route. If that means she fails, than so be it- though the way she is selling proves otherwise-though in the meantime it is both exciting and nerve wrecking to witness the house’s current state.

In short- I am intrigued.

Reality is— every single brand out there will always have something that will unexpectedly impress you once you’re able to see and handle it in person. Think of the worst labels out there now— even Philip Plein/Roberto Cavalli/Chloe, and there’s likely going to be something that will impress you, once in hand.

She’s so basic/bland/boring I can’t be bothered to summon the destain… However, she’s not ridiculously, desperately seeking clout, like so many of the high-profile labels :cough:Miuccia:cough:

It’s the shows that do her in as far as I’m concerned. Besides the juvenile, mall fashion show level of concept and excessively bloated looks, this annoying insistent these days with the likes of her and Sarah at McQueen/that person at Chloe to have the models looking stocky, dumpy and so ordinary-- rather than long, lean and mean, is more bothersome as a dumbing-down for the masses that is another stab in the heart to high fashion. Frankly, the pieces as separates aren’t horrendous and I’ll bet anyone that’s bothered by the branding will actually find at least something to like when they visit the shops. They’re just conservatively bourgeois, high-end products that will assimilate and blend into any woman’s (along with her mother’s and daughter’s) existing wardrobe. It’s absolutely a masterclass next to the silly and desperately-seeking-clout of Dior Men’s boyswear.
 
John Galliano did sports wear and street style for Dior from 2000-2006. But nothing like this awful pos.
 
^^^ Sad, true and hilarious.



Reality is— every single brand out there will always have something that will unexpectedly impress you once you’re able to see and handle it in person. Think of the worst labels out there now— even Philip Plein/Roberto Cavalli/Chloe, and there’s likely going to be something that will impress you, once in hand.

She’s so basic/bland/boring I can’t be bothered to summon the destain… However, she’s not ridiculously, desperately seeking clout, like so many of the high-profile labels :cough:Miuccia:cough:

It’s the shows that do her in as far as I’m concerned. Besides the juvenile, mall fashion show level of concept and excessively bloated looks, this annoying insistent these days with the likes of her and Sarah at McQueen/that person at Chloe to have the models looking stocky, dumpy and so ordinary-- rather than long, lean and mean, is more bothersome as a dumbing-down for the masses that is another stab in the heart to high fashion. Frankly, the pieces as separates aren’t horrendous and I’ll bet anyone that’s bothered by the branding will actually find at least something to like when they visit the shops. They’re just conservatively bourgeois, high-end products that will assimilate and blend into any woman’s (along with her mother’s and daughter’s) existing wardrobe. It’s absolutely a masterclass next to the silly and desperately-seeking-clout of Dior Men’s boyswear.


Couldn’t agree with you more Phuel. I believe that is why I enjoy her separates. After so many years of seeing the branded loungewear takeover, it really is a breath of fresh air to witness upscale daywear. Just on a personal note, presentations and the styles do not really interest me. She could show in a parking garage in Iowa and I would not be bothered.
 
Dior are re-staging this collection at a skate park inside the Ewha Womans University Seoul. Why though? As if the collection wasn't tragic enough, now we have to suffer through the show in live motion and now in a skate park?

Why can't they just do something nice, elegant, and classic for once? I am so sick of these GEN Z collections with their "cool" and "edgy" styling and aesthetics. It's so cringey and lame.


DIOR
 
what, you don't do ollies and kickflips in $3000 designer rompers?
 
This was a hilarious watch. The skateboarding at the start has to be the most uncool and cringey opening to a fashion show ever. Even Hedi Slimane wouldn't stoop so low.

Also, can someone please explain what skateboarding and a women's university have in common with this collection?


DIOR
 
This was a hilarious watch. The skateboarding at the start has to be the most uncool and cringey opening to a fashion show ever. Even Hedi Slimane wouldn't stoop so low.

Also, can someone please explain what skateboarding and a women's university have in common with this collection?


DIOR

The skaters are actually decent, I think the space wasn't well designed to do tricks in.
About the university: Ewha Women's University doesn't have a relation with the collection *but* Dior is partnering with them on a mentoring program, so there's that
 

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