Dries Van Noten F/W 2025.26 Paris

I’d do with less Haider’s knock offs…

There were some bits of Dries but I don’t know who Julian is. So far quite underwhelming.
 
There's an amalgamation of ugly fabrics and prints that I found really at odds with what Dries used to produce. Say what you want about the man but he could do some beautiful prints and that's what's missing here, that je ne sais quoi, that rarefied taste seldom found in designers nowadays. However, I don't think it was a total disaster and I think there's room for improvement, eagerly awaiting his next collections.
 
Its very Haider coded, but definitely a step up from his men’s offering. I really liked the use of paillettes and draping.
 
I mean - the guy screaming "Wooork" really says it all. I feel like, but almost everywhere, these clothes have no relation to who is actually buying them. There are these people like the blue square sitting front row saying something is "WOW" and "SO DRIES/FASHION" but what kind of connection do they have with the pieces being presented (at least with journalists, there was some kind of understanding of what these "clothes" could mean for the zeitgeist etc.) but most of all, what do these pieces have to do with the people buying them? I know from experience that Dries did exceptionally well in retail because the people could afford it felt a) comfortable (deep armholes etc.) and b) would be able to buy a whole wardrobe there, if they wanted. this, though certainly not ugly, feels so soulless and not aimed at anybody, really.
 
It’s undeniably beautiful to look at. It feels much more Fashion big a capital F than Dries ever did but don’t know if that’s a good thing. Dries was always real, I could look at the show and decide what to buy. Here is more styled, feels more complicated. I’m curious about how the draped dresses will look on the rack. Is this still for the Dries customers? Time will tell
 
Fabulous Haider Ackermann collection!
Good is good and though looks more Haider than anything else, it’s still a great collection.

The Men’s collection depressed me but happy to see they are AT LEAST stronger with women’s.
 
Oh yes this is good, Haider elements with Dries combined.
Which doesn't sound like a genius idea if you stand cheek-to-cheek with the original, calendar-wise.

Oh I don't know, I want to like it but there are so many buts: there are a lot of prints but none of them (or their combination) looks charming...and that ribbon motif, I could have lived without. And let's not even go into those undulating hems...
It's not bad but something is missing...Dries maybe?
 
I think this is in the spirit of Dries.

I hope he can show a bit of restraint going forward. It’s a bit overwrought at times but I give grace because I think with such a house, you want to show that you can do texture and color and prints and go wild.

I hope he can also inject a bit more of his own personality too. A good debut overall imo. I think it will challenge the client a bit but not overwhelm them.
 
A sigh of relief after the menswear lookbook, which I know was mostly by the studio team.

Yes, there are a few Haider references here, but I can still feel the Dries-isms. Still very rich in colours, prints, embellishments and texture. I think the current Dries customers can still find a lot of great pieces to add to their existing wardrobe. The jackets are really strong and the standouts. I loved the looks with all the tassels. And it's still very grown up! Hope he can keep this up with the menswear.
 
First impression: I love it.
It looks true to Dries' spirit.
Also some 20s flavour? Like from a grandson of Poiret.
Looking forward to see it in more detail!
 
I like it. It's a perfect mix of Dries and a little bit of Armani, but edgier and more urban.
Maybe he'll need a good stylist to help him polish and elevate his clothes because the styling here is kinda all over the place.

But overall, it's a solid debut and I'm quite happy with it.
 

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