Dries Van Noten Menswear F/W 2023.24 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[jeanclaude]

Best look:

The rest of the collection has several WTF looks...

 

[RedSmokeRise]

As a customer I think there's a lot to like even if there really isn't really a new proposition. I think I'll skip on the triple belted pants - it's veering into final fantasy territory.

 

[PierreGotha]

It's a bulky collection and I think these pieces will stand out once displayed in a rack. Especially the jackets and coats.

 

[LadyJunon]

VOGUE.COM

I think that these trousers need to be curcumcised...

 

[THD96]

I like this collection, I think this is a step in the right direction for him.
There is some gorgeous outerwear, I like the antique color palette and the botanical prints he used while subtle but still very eye-catching.
I like the triple belts pants, even though it looks like a chore just to put them on/off. And coat 48 is just sublime.
I can do without the 23 t-shirts.

I hope this is a signal that Dries is coming back to his senses

 

[Beun]

The first part is wonderful, Dries at his best. The 90's raveboys in floral prints I can definitely do without

 

[Deleted member 1957]

It's a bulky collection and I think these pieces will stand out once displayed in a rack. Especially the jackets and coats.

Same thing I was thinking, its going to create some really good separates. I love that blue and white tropical looking puffer

 

[Drusilla_]

^ yeah, I think this could break down well into wearable separates.

I like the proportions of the looks, even the printed ones aren't all bad - could be better considering that's a house signature, but I do like the grey and pink one (and again, as separates they work much better but that's for the customer to decide).

 

[disco54]

Best look:

The rest of the collection has several WTF looks...

This is exactly how full pants on men should be worn, hemmed above the shoe not dragging on the floor and bunching up , I know its more "street" that way but this looks more sophisticated, elegant and visually appealing. It has a very 30s/40s vibe about it.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It's veering a little too far into the cheesy Italian territory.

But those looks aside (you know which ones I'm talking about) it's nice to see some elegant and refined clothes.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

The styling is bit of a let down as a loot of looks could have been stripped back a bit here and there to make it a little less dense. It is a better trajectory compared to the last couple of seasons so it is nice to see Dries slowly coming back to form. More playful exploration of tonal dressing, which has been the look for a lot of designers this season and for what also feels like forever.

The print treatments on looks 10 and 19 (and others) remind me of Thom Browne's squiggly patchwork looking suiting but I much prefer it here. Feels more grounded and not as over wrought.

Wonder if he treated the Stussy collab as a way of purging some of that hypebeastery out of his mainline collection. If so, I find it pretty welcoming and wouldn't mind it to continue if it allows the collections to follow this line of approach whilst providing a bit of extra income.

 

[RaisinBoy]

The first part is wonderful, Dries at his best. The 90's raveboys in floral prints I can definitely do without

Rave boys?!? More like retired folks in Miami beach

 

[YohjiAddict]

The collection of anything goes. Some looks are quite amazing in that eccentric gentleman way that Dries does so well and then you have some surfer gone adrift gimmick which makes zero sense with the rest.

The tropical fantasy in the middle of winter is actually quite an attractive look and feels fresh. The blue printed puffer would be my personal pick but the outerwear in general is quite strong.