Dries Van Noten S/S 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Cocteau Stone]

What an intriguingly sombre first part of the collection. I enjoy it for it's oddity and niche-ness, and even has an inkling of Alber's Lanvin.

The rest in colour I find very, very hit and miss but with slightly better styling it could have been much better. There are some fabulous pieces (look 21, 29 and those cascading ruffles) but those florals are little bit of an overload when done in this many looks. That being said, there is still something about them I can't entirely hate. Might be the texture of a lot of the fabrics and the appearance of them being slightly undone as opposed to fully polished.

 

[aracic]

I like it. Magnificent ruffles and details that breathe life into otherwise ordinary garments. Clashing florals done tastefully, as opposed to Dior's fiasco yesterday. It's fashion! No obnoxious displays of logo or ego, simply beautiful clothing.

 

[gallianostan]

first two thirds of this were great. last third was not as great. hate the florals.

 

[Beun]

Fantastic collection - he still has it, after a few disappointing seasons.

 

[THD96]

This is good, not as good as Dries' usual offering but it's a big improvement from him since 2 years ago. Doing a show help him to streamline his vision, it forced help to focus and strip down all the unnecessary noises (excessive styling, oversaturated backgrounds, blurry photos, etc...).

I love the first 2/3 of the show. I love the black opening section, people associated him with colors but he proved that he can still deliver the same poetic spirit with only black.
The next section is also good. I love the flow and light tailoring, and his color combination is always pleasing to the eyes.

I don't like the floral prints at the end. It's too much, the color combination looks so crass. Dries has done floral prints with much more thought and sensuality.

Overall I like it, Dries may be on his way back.

 

[TianCouture]

The black section is interesting if not unnecessary, would have left it in the showroom honestly. It's interesting to see between BV & DVN's take on the New Look and how similar they are. It's also sad that something like those 2 looks aren't being shown at Dior. The prints/colors work much better in the pastel family here, the brights are too much

 

[reese06]

One of the best of the season.

No gimmicks. Just beautiful clothing and techniques throughout. There's an ease that I really like even if some of the separates are not easy to wear.

 

[eugenius]

My big gripe here is how, literally, vintage the florals look. He’s tapped into vintage looks before, but was always able to do so in a modern way. Here, the florals look like Mrs. Roper from “Three’s Company.”

But the black garments more than make up for it. The knee-length column dress from the first post takes the cake for me.

 

[Avonlea]

Black part is divine but the rest is just awful. Not sure what's going on with him because he always had a great eye for prints and colors.

 

[LadyJunon]

Dries' work is quite loud and large so the straightforwardness of a runway show is the best way for him to communicate his work. The black and the pastel section were very good. The florals looked dated which is unfortunate, because Dries' work (even his collections from the 80s/early 90s) always looks timeless despite its eccentricity.

 

[Lola701]

I love this! A great return to form for Dries! The black is stunning and I love the pastel colors and the mix of those colors. I even like the flowers and the ugliness of those. A very good collection from him!

 

[Vitamine W]

Flowers for spring..

 

[GreyVetiver]

Hands down the best collection in PFW so far. Dries is the living proof that you don’t need to put logos in everything to show your “brand identity”, even though some looks seem to reference alber’s lanvin. It’s also so refreshing to see that Dries is back on the runway!

 

[LadyJunon]

Flowers for spring..

Groundbreaking.

 

[jeanclaude]

The collection is nice...until the floral prints begin to appear. And the last looks are like Emmanuel Ungaro choosing prints in a dark room.

 

[WAVES]

we’ve all been craving so much for a runway presentation that even though there are very good pieces this feels ‘not good enough’.
it’s good. but lacking. still love his work, regardless.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

DRIES IS BACK!!!!!! Even with those challenging florals, the first 8 or so looks are so strong, I want to see that first coat in a deep red and camel.