I thought this was well said.
Eric Wilson’s posts on the runway shows. @ ShowStudio
The Dsquared show started with a remix of C & C Music Factory’s “Pride (A Deeper Love)” and a video showing the Caten brothers as they prepared their spring collection. Although there were no words from the brothers, as they pouted their lips while watching models pose sassily in black bikini bottoms and leather jackets, you could just imagine them saying things like “fierce” and “you go, girl.”
Then came the show. It was like being transported back to the Sound Factory Bar of New York in the early 1990s, watching George Michael videos, camping it up with RuPaul and imagining what it would be like to be photographed by Scavullo. The backdrop of the runway looked like an industrial photo studio, with a big ladder and a wind machine, and the models stormed down the runway wearing corseted black leather bodysuits and biker caps affixed with pearls. Two men in white turtlenecks and painted-on jeans pretended to be photographers, knocked out by the cover-girl-readiness of each model as she walked out.
This is what fashion used to look like, back when Milan was a simpler, more democratic place, where stars like Gianni Versace and Giorgio Armani turned fierceness into an incredibly lucrative Italian export. And there was a sense this week that some designers were trying to recapture that moment, back before everything became so corporate and ego driven.
And I'll add - And the early 90's moment also had edge. The combination of sex and edge, when well done, as it has been in several place this season in Milan, does feel very right for now. The sex is heady, and it rocks. And we mustn't forget that the early 90's also drew on that hazy, road movie, second summer of love thing. It can be George Michael if you like ( or a slice of Madonna's Erotica) but rolling back it can vibe with Fonda's leather in Easy Rider. 'Cept that babes are just fitter and somehow hotter now. That's the update, the mid market glam. But **** it rocks.