DSquared2 F/W 11.12 Milan

[Fashionturnip]

demented. & I hate those hats.

 

[Fatalefashion]

Dsquared2 - F/W 11.12 - Full Fashion Show (Exclusive on You Tube)

 

[purplethistle]

I like the ice skate heels and that's about it.

 

[Lovemusic22]

HQ's-Part 1

vogue.it

 

[Lovemusic22]

HQ's-Last batch

vogue.it

 

[Alexei]

I really like this.. such a great collection after a relative letdown last season for SS11. I always seem to adore their FW collections, though..

 

[Ohara]

Not young enough to wear all of them but like them still.

 

[fivehundred]

so much denim... bad denim.

I do love looking at their collections though. Always entertaining.

 

[Tentacl Ventricl]

Not their best collection but the themes they come up with are always worth remembering.

A pregnant comment left hanging. Care to expand?..

It did get me thinking. I wouldn't say the Caten brothers are particularly directional but it's fair to say they channel trend quite well. AW10/11's fetishistic femme fatale. SS11 they're riffing on formal menswear (with Ghesqueire) which we've seen all over the place this week.

On viewing the video footage - they do of course put on a good show - the aspects underrepresented on the stills are the snowy mountain set and those ice blade shoes conferring a tricky gait. And lord knows anything with a frigid air has seemed bang on point in Milan.

The icy set calls to mind of course Karl's icebergs for AW10/11 Chanel. And, whilst we don't see any winter sports references this season at DSquared (save for the footwear), how directional Tisci's ski motifs from AW10/11 are seeming elsewhere. Fashion is snaking down the slopes at Aspen.

After busty leather clad femme fatales for AW10/11 and a SS11 glistening like a ripe fruit, AW11/12 is frigidly frozen in time. The temperature in Milan was several degrees lower than a typical Milan season. No sex please we're Milanese.

And of course film is something which freezes culture in time - lays down content for posterity. Nicole Phelps' Style.com review has the correct film reference here, how obvious it is now - True Grit.

The Coen brothers 2010 remake of the 1969 Western is set in a snow capped Colarado of 1880, the protagonist a 14 year old girl. How close in time and place and 'themes' that is to Days of Heaven Rodarte's stated inspiration. Yes, fashion and film. A fairly costumey, themey, moment.

Maybe we're gearing up for a sportily themed SS12, sharpening our thematics. Not of course winter sports, something warmer, the London 2012 Olympics. Not the wild west but still the west.

I see in news today the Iranian premier is threatening to boycott the games saying the logo spells out the word 'Zion'. It just looks like 2012 to me albeit in a somewhat abstract zig zag.
Fashion, film, sports, cultural content. The West's lead. The new frontiers.

 

[mikeijames]

classic dsquared. while they so rarely lead the fashion pack in the way of innovation (one feels they have left that enterprise behind after that skeletal collection), it's comforting on some level that they remain so true to themselves to put out a collection so out of step with everything else going on in fashion. this exists as one of the few houses where they presented a collection that looks like it belongs in the cold.