Erdem S/S 2024 London

[LadyJunon]

 

[cul8tr]

I'm in love!

 

[Ruito]

Directly from your grandma's drapers... the new Erdem collection!

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Urban Stylin]

I love this, am a fan of grandma chic! Love the pop of colour only thing I hate are those Valentino like shoes.

 

[Lola701]

That coat in look 7! Stunning!

I actually like this a lot! I think he mixed the obvious Prada references quite well with his aesthetic.
What prevent me from loving it is that abondance of things. The styling is too much, it goes a bit all over the place…
Those shoes are distracting.

That being said, it’s a nice effort.

 

[Nimsay]

Lots of wearable takeaways hidden under wierd choices. Particularly challenging fabric prints - very much off a charity shop settee.

the finale mish mash looks seem to be a trend.

 

[dancv]

Apart from the old sofa’s prints, the brocades and bold prints are really beautiful. Specially that that reverse weave furry looking fabric in looks 7, 9 and 11.

the Prada references is definitely what lifts this collection.

 

[GoldenPetals]

Maybe I'm crazy, but I'm seeing more Galliano references. Especially the color and print combo choices.

 

[dancv]

Maybe I'm crazy, but I'm seeing more Galliano references. Especially the color and print combo choices.

The cut and proportions and even some of the floral prints reminds me of Prada resort 2008 and the encrusted jewel dresses reminds me of some of the AW 1997.

But I do also see Galliano now that you mentioned. Especially in the use of textiles.

 

[WAVES]

there are many great ideas! it just needed some cohesion.
a better styling could’ve helped too.

I’ve had a soft spot for him from the start and I’m happy to see that there’s still many good things about his creations.

 

[gallianostan]

Maybe I'm crazy, but I'm seeing more Galliano references. Especially the color and print combo choices.

it's very galliano; just nowhere near as good.

 

[LANZO_358]

The Wurthering Heights style clutched coats à la Brontë and especially the way occasion wear is made more quotidian here is an aesthetic I personally attribute to Raf’s time at Dior. Also the shoes are giving me N°21. The extended flaps here are such a hazard though. Albeit unoriginal, it’s a nice collection.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

The shoes here are just ridiculous, and a hazard waiting to happen.

This needs a tighter edit and better styling. There's some great and strong ideas here that get swamped by a whole heap of others that could be explored in another collection.

Even though it is heavily referential, Erdem makes great use of them and flips them. Must say though, I do see a lot of Sarah Burton here too.

 

[perhydrol]

I sometimes wonder how Erdem would do with haute couture, and I guess it's a good thing. His choice of textiles is always wonderful and even if the looks seem to be a bit outdated, they're extremely fascinating and charming. I can see why the collection may be perceived as referential, but I still believe Moralioglu has created a distinct universe for his brand.

 

[LadyJunon]

A sleek leather boot and a tighter edit would've done this collection the justice it deserved.

 

[bennyboy]

first part looks like Antonio Marras's work

 

[Caffeine]

Make clothes beautiful again. Thank you.

 

[HazJW]

Yeah I'm into this. What I like about Erdem is that he combines two tendencies in modern British fashion that are often done very badly - turn-of-the-century femininity and heavy maximalism - and does them both very well. This isn't twee or cosplaying as Victoriana, or costumey (except a couple of weaker looks), and it isn't 'chuck loads of fabrics on and see what sticks', it's that escape-from-modern-life energy lots of London designers try and fail to achieve done immaculately. You have to be careful that stuff like this doesn't get too childish/little girl dressing up, and he's in danger of crossing that line with the horrible shoes and the antennae headbands, but he mostly finds a really dreamy, gently nostalgic balance. It's lovely.