Exclusives

[Trista]

I actually do see a difference. Exclusives are the models who go out, do the castings, and they get paid a lot of money to be one of "the girls" for that label. The supers, on the other hand, I see as being a case of them not having to go out and do the castings-they are usually special requests from the designer and you can see that for the Dior Couture show at Versailles posted above, there are a lot of models who would not normally do the couture shows-or runway anymore in the case of Karen, Helena, Linda-but a) it was a big event, and b) big event+big designer=more pull with getting models. Shalom actually does a lot of Dior Couture shows, she's closed two in recent years (Versailles and then the SS 07 I believe).

Many times you will see models doing fashion weeks in their home country who could be put in that second category-special requests, only doing one or two shows and getting opening/closing slots at them, etc. Alice Burdeu was a good example because when she did RAFW recently, she only did three shows-and Alex Perry being one of them, where she opened and closed. Gisele Bundchen I think is exclusive for Colcci in Brazil, I dunno if that is the right one but I know there's one show she does. Toronto FW had a lot of girls who just made it big-Amanda Laine, Kate Somers, and many more, but also getting Coco Rocha to walk one of the shows.

 

[1FashionVictim]

I still don't think there's a difference, maybe bigger pay-checks for bigger models but that's it. I can see your reasoning, though.

 

[*Bianca*]

It was my second week of castings in Paris and I went to see the team at Balenciaga and they hired me to do the [pre-fall] look book. I’ve pretty much been there since. After the look book, we drew up an agreement where they had to approve all other work I did. Before the autumn/winter '08/09 show in February, I was there seven days a week. It was pretty nuts.

I guess this means Stephanie Carta was a Balenciaga semi-exclusive...She wasn't at any shows prior to Balenciaga but a couple after.

BALENCIAGA F/W 08 PARIS
Stephanie Carta (Semi)

style

 

[yourbestfriend]

I still don't think there's a difference, maybe bigger pay-checks for bigger models but that's it. I can see your reasoning, though.

There is a difference. I guess you could look at it this way.

A top model at the LV show was not an exclusive because they were not contractually prevented to do any shows with any other designer, which is what an exclusive is.

When a model is an exclusive for Prada per say, they can not do any other show but Prada.

When a top model is requested for a show they can still do other shows, so as long as they want to or get booked to do so.

As for some other other models, I don't think Jeisa was an exclusive. I think she just didn't book other shows or did the castings for them.

 

[1FashionVictim]

I guess I've always thought of an exclusive differently. Should we have a seperate thread for top models who have been requested to walk a show especially?

Calvin Klein SS03

Iris Struebeggar SS03 (City)

style.com

 

[notmanons]

^ She looks really familiar....

 

[tocceve]

^Daria Werbowy? She also made a comeback last season and she was on many runways

 

[1FashionVictim]

Yeah, she took a break from modelling for years only to make a succesful comeback this season.

 

[eword]

actually she never took a break for years, just for a few months.

 

[1FashionVictim]

I'm talking about Iris. Not Daria.

 

[Rochas]

actually she never took a break for years, just for a few months.

Daria actually took a break for years too.. about 1 1/2 to 2 years. Of course she was never big in her teen years however.

 

[eword]

she too a break in 2002, when she was nobody. i don't think that counts for this thread.
#1fv, ignore my post in that case.

 

[Rochas]

^That's what I was saying........................

 

[notmanons]

Lol look at the controversy I've just caused..

 

[Rochas]

^No controversy Just clarifying exactly what I said.

 

[eword]

no controversy at all!

 

[tocceve]

Luca Gadjus:

Sep 1999
Debuts at the spring Prada show in Milan, as an exclusive

Sep 1999
Opens and closes the spring Miu Miu show in Milan, as an exclusive

2001
Appears in Prada ad campaign for spring and fall

does anyone know where I can find pictures from those shows?

 

[notmanons]

Good good.

 

[tocceve]

SS 09 BUZZ: Prada or Calvin...Who carries the career weight these days?

IMG Pernille is a shoe-in for Top 10 Newcomer SS09

We brink on August. And here we go again. The inbox at MDC is getting clogged with all those in-coming new beauties all being glossed to walk that fine line forged by the likes of Daria or her long lost contemporary Elise Crombez . The dream line? A Marc Jacobs here, an Anna Sui there, maybe even the Calvin. Then she gets to Milan. she opens Prada. All the editors see the sensational new beauty and presto. Add water and we have an instant star. Or so the mythology runs.
Roughly a year ago I outlined in a post titled "Can NY Get Its Groove Back?" all the reason why New York City had lost its market leadership in the new model sweepstakes. To recap: timid casting directors and even more uninspired clients who book one season behind every other city AND a visa blockade that lumps models in the same category as computer engineers (Oh the irony), ensuring they certainly don't end up in NY in their first season.
The interesting thing is we face a SS09 with a good 10 FW 08 breakout stars set to walk for their first major season in NY. Think Iris and Amanda Laine at Supreme, Natalaia Chabanenko at Women and Anna S from Silent. You could almost cast a whole show from their ranks as that mob represents campaign faces and cover girls as well as editorial must-haves. Now process the fact that Amanda and Iris did every NY casting imaginable but were found wanting by most of this city's showrooms. Will history repeat itself? It wouldn't be history if it didn't.
By way of full disclosure I should say 5 of MDC's Top 10 NY Newcomers slots are already clinced. The really brilliant agents of the business have deduced that the stakes have been raised and to compete, a girl has to enter the September market with as much advance ammunition as can be secretly stockpiled. The perfect case in point? Pernille at IMG whose "walk" video MDC premiered on MDX . That girl's path has been so beautifully laid I do not doubt that one of the earliest Top 10 Newcomer SS 09 slot will go to her. Unless NY designers suddenly become abruptly directional, it is going to be brutally difficult to get those other first season girls on the map. Any agent who thinks the game starts in August will find themselves behind the cycles already pre-plotted at IMG, Women, Supreme, Elite (which is really good with that Calvin) and Next.
The great outside hope for the NY shows to produce a star is most distinctly the Calvin Klein. Through Irina K to Karlie Kloss, Toni Garrn and Ali Stephens, that is the one show exclusive that has come to gain value for the future of a new model's career. The hawk eyed crew at Calvin are very aware of this. Politically what Prada and a Prada slot means for Milan, Calvin carries that career weight in NY . Their prime girls have been marked off. Mysterious beauties are being whisked in and out of the showroom with cloaks over their heads and every good manger has the challenge of balancing that very Calvin booking against the uncompromising demands for exclusivity that will be traded by the Prada showroom. But how do you deduce which girl is better for Calvin and which for Prada? Unlike the Prada, the tastes at Calvin have been shifting back and forth . Is it a Karl Templar vision (uber blonde works for that) or should we be reading Camilla Nickerson's editorial tea leaves for clues? The choice, for instance of Suvi for Calvin FW 09 makes total sense when you measure how much Ms Nickerson loves working with her. I feel a little sorry for those NY agencies who are completely counting on one European show to build the career of their girls on. The verdict can only come in by late September , which means for those girls who get the thumbs down, SS09 will be over for them. It's going to be a game of wise choices against a booby-trapped chess-board and TI is already pulling up his front row seat to watch the explosions. The games have begun.

theimagist

 

[Paws]

^Great news for Pernille