F/W 2021.22 Haute Couture Open Discussion Thread

It sounds like the start of a bad joke..."A Brit, an American, and a Georgian walk into a couture salon.."

Geez..What other snide comments can I make about TweedleDee/Dumb/Dumber?

You not gonna let it go don't you. :rofl:

Are Givenchy gonna shut down the couture Operation again. Such a pity, Clare done a wonderful to revived it only it to be abandon by Matthew. Oh well maybe it for the best.

And do we really need Pyer Moss "Couture".
 
Weird right? But they can’t be fully invited yet…
I guess they are testing the water with this one. If it’s successful, maybe they will invest in a real Couture operation.
They have easy opportunity to come back as classic haute couture house because rules is more gracious for old member. Probably they haven't special atelier Haute Couture, but their seamstresses have knowledge and skill. Atelier focus on Haute Couture which of course, had to be in Paris is main rule. Moreover, they have to find a customer. Nowdays, three group buy HC: rich women, fashion collectors (main client for Victor & Rolf) and museums.
 
And do we really need Pyer Moss "Couture".
Now, this category is for PR/hype but was devise due to Italian fashion house invasion in 80/90s. Federation has strict rules because HC is soft power in French cultural politics.
Only a few fashion house have money and tailoring knowledge which they get opportunity to create real Haute Couture.
 
They have easy opportunity to come back as classic haute couture house because rules is more gracious for old member. Probably they haven't special atelier Haute Couture, but their seamstresses have knowledge and skill. Atelier focus on Haute Couture which of course, had to be in Paris is main rule. Moreover, they have to find a customer. Nowdays, three group buy HC: rich women, fashion collectors (main client for Victor & Rolf) and museums.
True but when I said operation, I really meant organization…Which means everything that goes beyond the runway. All those brands uses Couture or the appellation Couture really as a marketing tool and of course, it’s part of their advertising budget. That’s how we had silly news coming from KERING that Gucci or YSL are doing Couture.

Couture is expensive to have an to maintain. In order for Balenciaga Couture to comeback as a real Couture house, beyond the atelier, they will need all the ressources that all those houses have. A president, salons, a logistic (when the première and a seamstress have to flight to fit a dress).

And in those operations, the collections are really the machine that helps it keep up but at the same time, you can have a client coming to have an old Balenciaga dress made for her…

I’m really curious to see if this will be one of the numerous stunts from KERING or a real Couture thing this time.
 
Weird right? But they can’t be fully invited yet…
I guess they are testing the water with this one. If it’s successful, maybe they will invest in a real Couture operation.

Exactly. Setting up the operations for Couture is a massive investment and one that, realistically, only Chanel and Dior can afford, primarily due to both of those houses generating so much money from perfume, which allows them to be financially "wasteful" in other areas, ie. Haute Couture.

To me it seems more like a publicity and marketing initiative to add / restore some prestige to the brand. There will be tons of press and industry people at the show, but how about real couture clients? How, for example, are they going to build that client base? Out of their existing ready-to-wear market? I'm laughing at the thought.

I'm sorry but I don't see this succeeding in the long term. Balenciaga, as a company and as a concept, the way that it is structured and marketed under Demna, cannot compete with Chanel, Dior, and even Valentino. These brands worked for decades to build up their couture operations; the seamstresses, the vendeuses and directrices have literally been there since the beginning, developing and growing their clientele, nurturing the business, riding out multiple designers in some cases. Balenciaga is about 10 or even 20 years too late on the Haute Couture train. They had an opportunity with Nicolas to establish a base for this kind of project, but they missed it.
 
^^
What is interesting about Couture is that while it’s been some time now that Dior and Chanel are making money with it and generating profits, it has also started to be a money maker for other houses. So the concept of doing Couture just for publicity today just feels kinda of irrelevant. That’s why Atelier Versace feels so irrelevant…Like who needs another Redcarpet brand? The clients buy daywear or cocktail dresses. Someone like Elie Saab can afford a parade of gowns because his Couture is less expensive than Chanel and Dior for example.

I respect Couture that is done with clients and craft in mind. And as you said, I don’t see Balenciaga compete with Chanel and Dior. I don’t imagine a RTW offering so detached from the Couture…
I’m curious for the show tho. And if it goes with a change of direction in RTW, why not?
 
A Preview of the Colour Palette and Aesthetic at Dior!
COUTURE_WINTER_21_22_INVITATION_EN_22-1.jpg
Dior.com/
 
Hello everyone,

Do you know when Saint Laurent show will be ?
 
Just noticed Margiela doesn't have a season designated for this upcoming collection. It's just "Artisanal 2021". Interesting!
 
A preview of some CHANEL looks, from the CHANEL Instagram:
IMG_5196.jpg IMG_5195.jpg IMG_5197.jpg
 
A preview of Fendi by Kim Jones:

 
^^ It looks like a definite improvement on last season! The music though...is from Saint Laurent Winter 2021?
 
Rucci's film. Only his sketches and Donovan’s illustrations are there, He has no samples probably
 

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