Fashion Stylists: Clothes and Connections!

[faust]

Where do stylists get the clothes for the photo shoots that are published in magazines? I'm under the impression that the designers either pay the magazine or have some kind of an arrangement...

 

[Scott]

Most times,its a hire-for basis from the designers,shops or showrooms. Meaning,that they 'rent' the clothing and whatnot. But,generally, I think it really all depends on the magazine because most of the lower-ranked indie publications do it as such, because they simply haven't got the financial means to do otherwise. As far as an agreement,there usually is,but its more along the lines of credit.

 

[softgrey]

yeah- sorry-scott-magazines don't pay for a thing- the clothing is leant to them by the designers in hopes that it will be photographed-basically free advertising for them-an ad could cost $30,000. The magazines do have relationships with the designers who advertise with them and they tend to feature their clothing more than someone who is new. That's why Prada's on the cover of Vogue so often, etc.

An advertising shoot is where the clothes are hired or rented. Ie-music video, album cover, advertisement for things other than clothing-ie-computer ad, car ad, shoe company who doesn't make clothing, etc. Basically, anywhere that the designers name is not mentioned.

That's how it works...

 

[Scott]

Originally posted by softgrey@Feb 3rd, 2004 - 11:47 am
yeah- sorry-scott-magazines don't pay for a thing- the clothing is leant to them by the designers in hopes that it will be photographed-basically free advertising for them-an ad could cost $30,000. The magazines do have relationships with the designers who advertise with them and they tend to feature their clothing more than someone who is new. That's why Prada's on the cover of Vogue so often, etc.

An advertising shoot is where the clothes are hired or rented. Ie-music video, album cover, advertisement for things other than clothing-ie-computer ad, car ad, shoe company who doesn't make clothing, etc. Basically, anywhere that the designers name is not mentioned.

That's how it works...

yeah but you also must realize that not all designers are like Prada etc. and not all mags are like Vogue in that alot of the designers that are featured in stories don't do advertising campaigns. And many aren't quite as tremendous or even close to being recognized for that matter.

 

[softgrey]

which is exactly why they are eager to lend clothes and get some free advertising...it's just they way it goes. why would vogue pay for clothes? who wouldn't love to be in vogue? it's a mutually beneficial relationship...

 

[Scott]

I wasn't speaking of Vogue. Which is why I said,it depends on the magazine. But as for free advertising,designers who already haven't much money as it is,cannot just 'give' or lend clothing for free advertising. That's all well and good but some still need a little compensation.

 

[softgrey]

I'm not going to argue about it- I know how it works because I am a stylist and have been for over 10 yrs. I was just trying to help Faust understand a little bit about how it works in this business. I'm not guessing or making it up, Scott-this is how it works. The designer even has to sometimes pay to have a dress shipped to NY from Paris hoping someone will shoot it and then it doesn't even get shot. It's very difficult for the designer, but it's part of a marketing budget that has to be factored into the business plan of the company. Fashion design is mostly so difficult because it just costs so much. This is part of the cost of doing business.

Faust-if you have any other questions, I would be happy to answer them.

 

[purplelucrezia]

Interesting, thanks guys, I had always wondered about this...

 

[faust]

Thanks for your input guys, I guess I was close. I was thinking that the designers actually pay magazines to have their clothes in the photo shoot (maybe under the table?). I was wondering exactly because of the fact that softgrey said, I see same labels appearing over and over and over in the same magazines. V is the worst in that respect. It looks like they have their little clique that gets recycled all the time.

 

[smashinfashion]

Originally posted by softgrey@Feb 3rd, 2004 - 1:29 pm
I'm not going to argue about it- I know how it works because I am a stylist and have been for over 10 yrs. I was just trying to help Faust understand a little bit about how it works in this business. I'm not guessing or making it up, Scott-this is how it works. The designer even has to sometimes pay to have a dress shipped to NY from Paris hoping someone will shoot it and then it doesn't even get shot. It's very difficult for the designer, but it's part of a marketing budget that has to be factored into the business plan of the company. Fashion design is mostly so difficult because it just costs so much. This is part of the cost of doing business.

Faust-if you have any other questions, I would be happy to answer them.

i think the point scott was trying to make, softgrey, is that if we're talking about fashion magazines that are more independent, it can be much more difficult for the stylist to get their hands on pieces they want. vintage and indie designers are often used and can come at a cost. obviously if you're looking at mainstream fashion magazines of course they're going to use the big mainstream labels repeatedly and they have established relationships. the magazine chooses which pieces they want to shoot and borrows it from the designer.

 

[Scott]

Originally posted by smashinfashion+Feb 3rd, 2004 - 1:47 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(smashinfashion @ Feb 3rd, 2004 - 1:47 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-softgrey@Feb 3rd, 2004 - 1:29 pm
I'm not going to argue about it- I know  how it works because I am a stylist and have been for over 10 yrs.  I was just trying to help Faust understand a little bit about how it works in this business.  I'm not guessing or making it up, Scott-this is how it works.  The designer even has to sometimes pay to have a dress shipped to NY from Paris hoping someone will shoot it and then it doesn't even get shot.  It's very difficult for the designer, but it's part of a marketing budget that has to be factored into the business plan of the company.  Fashion design is mostly so difficult because it just costs so much.  This is part of the cost of doing business.

Faust-if you have any other questions, I would be happy to answer them. 

i think the point scott was trying to make, softgrey, is that if we're talking about fashion magazines that are more independent, it can be much more difficult for the stylist to get their hands on pieces they want. vintage and indie designers are often used and can come at a cost. obviously if you're looking at mainstream fashion magazines of course they're going to use the big mainstream labels repeatedly and they have established relationships. the magazine chooses which pieces they want to shoot and borrows it from the designer. [/b][/quote]
Precisely,Smashin.

I understand completely where you're coming from,softgrey,and know very well that's how that side works but there are other aspects and perspectives to speak from. Independence is just what I know.

 

[softgrey]

independant magazines have very little money-most of the time no one who works for them even gets paid-the photographer and the stylist have to foot the bill-examples of this would be Surface, Interview, Flaunt-none of the people you see published in these magazines is getting paid... They do this in order to get Tear sheets for their books. Independant magazines do not pay for clothing to shoot any more than Vogue does.
Magazines do not have budget to rent wardrobe with very few exceptions.ie-a vintage Las Vegas showgirl headpiece is something which would probably have to be bought or rented-(first you would try to borrow it in exchange for credit in the magazine. ) But not from a designer-from a costume shop. All I'm saying is that No designer RENTS clothing samples to magazines. Doesn't happen.

Can we all agree on that?

 

[faust]

Interesting that you mentioned Surface. I didn't think they were that small time (although I'm the only one I know who reads it).

All right guys, enough arguing!

 

[Spacemiu]

iI think whether its Bottega veneta or Bruno pieters designers will let magazines borow clothes.

 

[marrimoda]

When a business (the designer) pays magazine or television program to show its product -- that is called ADVERTISING. If a magazine, newspaper, or television program took payment for space in its publication or show -- that would present a great ETHICAL problem which could jeopardize the media outlet's credibility with readers and viewers. That is exactly what media has to stay away from.

It works in theory, however there are other forms of influence...ie friendships, prestige, power plays, etc.

This is the case whether we are talking about fashion media, general news media, sports, etc.

I dont know this from the fashion world, I know it from my career in television news.

 

[Scott]

Softgrey,I only know from personal advice from European friends who are stylists or who have styled(as I am obtaining the same goal,myself),tell me that usually when you work freelance or on an independent basis most times you have to hire for clothing from a designer etc. Even when doing work for a magazine in that same respect. I dunno,it probably works differently in some cases and with some magazines and designers. Plus you've got those stylists who are also more established and well known like Camille Bidault-Waddington or Jane How who can easily grab hold of certain things unlike an obscure in someone like Anna Clausen or Katja Rahlwes and Yasmine Eslami.

 

[softgrey]

oh lordy-now why didn't I say that?!?! You are 100% on the money...

thank you so much!

good luck with the career switch marrimoda, sounds like you're off to a good start!
you certainly understand how this business works...all my best

 

[ultramarine]

Thanks for the info, ppl!
I've learned my new thing of the day!

 

[ignitioned32]

Originally posted by Spacemiu@Feb 3rd, 2004 - 8:19 pm
iI think whether its Bottega veneta or Bruno pieters designers will let magazines borow clothes.

I always thought so.. it's like free advertising (as mentioned earlier).

Thanks for the input guys!

 

[Atelier]

This thread is a perfect example of someone asking a question and getting it answered from someone who knows exactly how it all works. Good job, softgrey.