Fashion's Troubled Times

[tiffany]

Originally posted by Scott@Mar 11th, 2004 - 1:11 pm
Its ironic that the established are suffering while it seems the indies are prevailing this season. In fact,its seems the other way around for once. From a general perspective,independents from NY to Paris seemed to have had a strong grip on reality. Whilst the majority of the established were living it up with their big egos,their creations have not. Not to mention all this media sympathy for Ford hasn't helped direction much.

I agree it is ironic, but great in a way

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by strawberry daiquiri+Mar 11th, 2004 - 3:22 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(strawberry daiquiri @ Mar 11th, 2004 - 3:22 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-softgrey@Mar 11th, 2004 - 6:31 pm
well, i do...not that they are afraid of being bombed, but that they have lost their jobs due to cutbacks, or are afraid of losing them, so they have curtailed their spending iin case of emergency...which is directly related to the first issue...

I understand that, more saving for a rainy day than before et all. But, I don't think that peoples taste has become more conservative as a result, meaning if they are going to their spend money, they don't necessarily want to spend it on what the designer made while playing it safe as a tactic of survival. [/b][/quote]
then we agree...however i also agree with lena that the world is a different place....psychologically and emotionally...i think that it has taken some designers a little while to really admit this...they thought that by making "pretty 'clothes they could cheer us all up and we could just pretend everything is alright...the thing is, that is impossible, because it is an ongoing siuation-terrible news about the bombing kit-

this season is the first one where i feel like designers have gotten a clue and are changing their approach...i think the loosening up of the silhouette is a prime example...no one wants to feel like they are wearing a straightjacket...people need freedom-freedom of movement...i also think the shoes have more substantial heels which give the wearer more stability and balance...

i think comfort and ease are the real trends that no one is speakiing about,,,,and i'm going to post that on the trends thread... i am beginning to feel hopefu; about the industry for the first time in years...i think we're finally on the right track...

 

[mikeijames]

Originally posted by Scott@Mar 11th, 2004 - 1:11 pm
Its ironic that the established are suffering while it seems the indies are prevailing this season. In fact,its seems the other way around for once. From a general perspective,independents from NY to Paris seemed to have had a strong grip on reality. Whilst the majority of the established were living it up with their big egos,their creations have not. Not to mention all this media sympathy for Ford hasn't helped direction much.

It's sort of like the independent film getting a voice now. People consider independent films a new type of genre (using some of the same techniques used to take early nineties alternative into the mainstream). I think that many stores are recognizing that there are two unique fashion consumers. One's the conspicuous (the gucci girl, the chanel princess) and one's the fashion elite (people who can actually pull off imitation of christ for example). Though they rarely dabble in each other's world (i'm picturing the fashion avant garde pairing Demeulemeester pants with an unlikely Prada tank or the fashionista pairing her Chanel turtleneck and tweed pants with a totally funky Boudicca coat)...both spend incredible amounts of money for things they like.

 

[Lena]

indie designers are on the rise and getting the attention (and part of the seasonal 'fashion' investment) of the 'typical' lux client (see the Gucci, Dior etc).

its a new trend, wearing what others dont and discovering new unheard of labels which then you introduce to your social circle 'first' its a bit like a game that one could call "i discovered him/her FIRST" its basically a trend now

 

[faust]

Originally posted by mikeijames+Mar 12th, 2004 - 3:43 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(mikeijames @ Mar 12th, 2004 - 3:43 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-Scott@Mar 11th, 2004 - 1:11 pm
Its ironic that the established are suffering while it seems the indies are prevailing this season. In fact,its seems the other way around for once. From a general perspective,independents from NY to Paris seemed to have had a strong grip on reality. Whilst the majority of the established were living it up with their big egos,their creations have not. Not to mention all this media sympathy for Ford hasn't helped direction much.

It's sort of like the independent film getting a voice now. People consider independent films a new type of genre (using some of the same techniques used to take early nineties alternative into the mainstream). I think that many stores are recognizing that there are two unique fashion consumers. One's the conspicuous (the gucci girl, the chanel princess) and one's the fashion elite (people who can actually pull off imitation of christ for example). Though they rarely dabble in each other's world (i'm picturing the fashion avant garde pairing Demeulemeester pants with an unlikely Prada tank or the fashionista pairing her Chanel turtleneck and tweed pants with a totally funky Boudicca coat)...both spend incredible amounts of money for things they like.[/b][/quote]
You SIR, are on the point as usual. I would NEVER offend Ann by pairing anything of hers with Prada But, seriously, that's a great point you are making. I am afraid that being "indie" in fashion has been and is becoming a trend of its own, just like "indie" music and "indie" film have been milking their nitche (sp?) markets. What's left to the independent, free-thinking, aesthetic individual then? Just being yourself, I guess

 

[softgrey]

i had writen a lovely reply to this when the site went down and it got erased

i'll just say that i mikeijames' point about the indie films relating to indie designers...

maybe when i get more energy i'll expand the thought...

 

[keepsmiling]

Then, as now, Nora Desmond's immortal words ring out:

Joe: You're Norma Desmond. You used to be in silent pictures. You used to be big.
Norma (bristling I am big. It's the pictures that got small.
QUOTE]

That just captures the essense of the current industry.

 

[Atelier]

Fashion is a vanguard. Whether anyone choses to follow is another story that's measured by sales (mass or select), influence and byproducts (e.g., fragrances, shoes, exhibitions). It's short-term (often) or long-term and is attributed with various subjective descriptors, from commercial to art. Above all, to paraphrase Calvin Klein, it's either something people find important or don't care for at all.

The audience that finds it important in one form or another ranges from reactionary to radical. The conservative side admires the consistency of established producers and marketable clothes. Progressives want innovation. To confuse things, this audience tends to be schizophrenic. They want it all.

The three-way battle royale pits preserving the system, reinventing the system and bucking the system. It invites commentary from anyone that associates themself with fashion. And there's never been a riper time for faciliated commentary.

Fashion is not in trouble. It's just fashionable to suggest it is. That never goes out of style.

 

[classic1908]

Originally posted by Atelier+Mar 11th, 2004 - 2:04 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Atelier @ Mar 11th, 2004 - 2:04 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-Timothy Hagy article
At Hermès, not one American buyer came away with a thing good to say about Jean Paul Gaultier's premier collection for the label, held at the Equestrian riding school of the École Militaire (where young recruits in tight pants providing entertainment). Selling leather corsets and whips, with a strong sadomasochistic streak, is perhaps more difficult than pushing the scarves and sacks that have traditionally ridden to the rescue.

Not one American buyer? What about:

1. "FULL GALLOP: Neiman Marcus executives were out in force at the Hermès show Saturday and for good reason: They’re revved up about Jean Paul Gaultier’s arrival as designer of women’s ready-to-wear. The plan is to add five new Hermés shop locations in the U.S. over the next three years. “We’re very excited about it,” said Karen Katz, president and chief executive officer of Neiman Marcus Stores. “We’re one of their exclusive partners.” Neiman’s already has one Hermès shop in Troy, Mich. The new locations are slated for Short Hills, N.J., White Plains, N.Y., Boca Raton, Fla., San Antonio, Tex., and Washington, D.C." (WWD article)

2. "Kal Ruttenstein, senior vice president of fashion direction at Bloomingdale’s, said Paris is always inspiring. “My favorite collection of all the collections this season was Jean Paul Gaultier for Hermès. It was stylish, sexy and charming, but it was really all about class. (WWD article)

I find fashiononlines.com's Christine Suppes (editor-in-chief) to have her own agenda and it's in every article on that site. [/b][/quote]
This bit was interesting. But why is Neiman Marcus not thinking about putting a Hermes shop in California -- where there's a grip of $$$

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by classic1908+Mar 12th, 2004 - 10:23 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(classic1908 @ Mar 12th, 2004 - 10:23 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'>

Originally posted by Atelier@Mar 11th, 2004 - 2:04 pm
<!--QuoteBegin-Timothy Hagy article

At Hermès, not one American buyer came away with a thing good to say about Jean Paul Gaultier's premier collection for the label, held at the Equestrian riding school of the École Militaire (where young recruits in tight pants providing entertainment). Selling leather corsets and whips, with a strong sadomasochistic streak, is perhaps more difficult than pushing the scarves and sacks that have traditionally ridden to the rescue.

Not one American buyer? What about:

1. "FULL GALLOP: Neiman Marcus executives were out in force at the Hermès show Saturday and for good reason: They’re revved up about Jean Paul Gaultier’s arrival as designer of women’s ready-to-wear. The plan is to add five new Hermés shop locations in the U.S. over the next three years. “We’re very excited about it,” said Karen Katz, president and chief executive officer of Neiman Marcus Stores. “We’re one of their exclusive partners.” Neiman’s already has one Hermès shop in Troy, Mich. The new locations are slated for Short Hills, N.J., White Plains, N.Y., Boca Raton, Fla., San Antonio, Tex., and Washington, D.C." (WWD article)

2. "Kal Ruttenstein, senior vice president of fashion direction at Bloomingdale’s, said Paris is always inspiring. “My favorite collection of all the collections this season was Jean Paul Gaultier for Hermès. It was stylish, sexy and charming, but it was really all about class. (WWD article)

I find fashiononlines.com's Christine Suppes (editor-in-chief) to have her own agenda and it's in every article on that site.

This bit was interesting. But why is Neiman Marcus not thinking about putting a Hermes shop in California -- where there's a grip of $$$ [/b][/quote]
by the looks of the locations they named, they are thinking of hermes customers being older, more conservative than califonia where i'm sure chistian dior reigns supreme...they tend to prefer bells and whistles...

 

[ignitioned32]

Originally posted by Scott@Mar 11th, 2004 - 1:11 pm
Its ironic that the established are suffering while it seems the indies are prevailing this season. In fact,its seems the other way around for once. From a general perspective,independents from NY to Paris seemed to have had a strong grip on reality. Whilst the majority of the established were living it up with their big egos,their creations have not. Not to mention all this media sympathy for Ford hasn't helped direction much.

I agree

Thanks for posting chick!